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Leave it to the gentrifying but still bohemian neighborhood of Silver Lake to host a restaurant whose mission is to bring top-quality seasonal fare to the masses, at affordable prices. Whether it’s chicken fried rice with broccoli, shallot and scrambled egg or grilled ribeye steak, the food fairly glistens in the counter case where you order from a blackboard. The menu isn’t large on any given day, but it changes daily so you won’t likely get bored with the offerings. The outstanding pork belly sandwich with cabbage and jalapeño slaw and creamy aioli, fortunately, is one of the more enduring items. Intriguing side dishes tend to be more produce than meat, and vary more with the season. Don’t write off the Petaluma free range rotisserie chicken as “just chicken” — it is truly exceptional.

-Christine Delsol