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The original of a three-restaurant franchise is jimmied into a notch between buildings and parking decks near the back entrance of the strange Sunset + Vine complex, and it’s worth seeking out. Within the modest if colorful surroundings, decadence meets whimsy in the fresh-fruit cocktails (try the kumquatini when in season), towers of seafood, whole Santa Barbara sea urchins, and spicy lamb sausage paired with Manila clams. The token meat dish is the pug burger, a perfectly charred ball of ground beef with blue cheese, bacon, avocado and fried egg. Brunch (Saturdays and Sundays) is an event, dominated by a crudo bar redolent with lemon, lime, sake and chili.

-Christine Delsol