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The purple Peruvian gnocchi and rock shrimp appetizer is legendary at this restaurant, which melds the region’s sophistication with its relaxed beach atmosphere. In fact, the appetizers as a whole —including sweet corn agnolotti, black linguini, and deep-sea crab cakes with parsnip puree—very nearly upstage the main dishes. A local favorite since 1996, it occupies a bright loft space with walls of windows, two blocks from the beach. The best entrees are perfectly cooked barbequed wild California king salmon and caramelized pork chops with wild rice, bacon and apple chutney. The three-course Monday night bistro menu is a bargain at $38 (the regular menu is also available).