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Pass on the somber, clubby first-floor dining room and slip into a black leather booth upstairs, where the piano bar is, in what may be Southern California’s most opulent steakhouse. Ahi tuna tartare or oysters Rockefeller are fitting starts to an 18-oz. bone-in fillet or Chef’s Cut rib-eye chop, cooked to perfection and served on sizzling 400[dg]F (204[dg]C) plates. Either will easily feed three people, especially if you add some classic creamed or sauteed spinach and lyonnaise potatoes. A simple lemoncello, mango and raspberry ice cream is the perfect finish, but a variety of dessert wines, ports, and cordials, and expertly mixed cocktails, also stand ready to serve if you can’t manage another bite.