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Daily trips to the fish market determine the menu at L.A.’s preeminent seafood restaurant. Its understated decadence is best experienced when you’re in a mood to relax, as busy periods can produce 20-minute gaps between courses. Small bites display exquisite detail, such as a nasturtium leaf fashioned into a taco holding raw scallops and puffed rice. Main courses allow the wild flavors to prevail, relegating sauces to a supporting role. Some recent standouts: wild Quinault River King Salmon with red cabbage, bacon, Tahitian squash and pecan, and Sonoma-bred duck breast with smoky eggplant puree, chanterelles and fig. There can be inconsistencies, especially in the texture of the scallops, but the sea urchins here can convert even the most rabid uni hater.