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Valentino is a good choice if you're splurging on just one special dinner, particularly if you're passionate about wine. For almost 40 years, the ever-so-charming and world-renowned restaurateur, Piero Selvaggio, has greeted guests and helped guide them through the extensive wine list (and taken a lucky few on a tour of his award-winning wine cellar). Dinners here are typically lengthy, multicourse affairs, often involving several bottles of wine to match the cuisine. You might begin with a crisp Verdicchio paired with the seafood spaghetti, which incorporates a fresh medley of baby calamari, clams, prawns and cured fish roe. A rich barolo is the perfect accompaniment to veal osso bucco braised with root vegetables and herbs. If you are looking for a more casual dining experience, Piero's V-vin wine bar offers excellent small plates and attractively priced flights of older vintages and rarely seen labels from American and international wineries. Please be aware that jackets are all but required in the elegant dining room.