Restaurants

As one of the world's cultural crossroads, Los Angeles is a veritable international atlas of exotic cuisines: Afghan, Argentine, Armenian, Burmese, Cajun, Cambodian, Caribbean, Cuban, Ethiopian, Indian, Jewish, Korean, Lebanese, Moroccan, Oaxacan, Peruvian, Persian, Spanish, Thai, Vietnamese . . . well, you get the point. Half the fun of visiting Los Angeles is experiencing worldly dishes that only a major metropolis can provide. Whatever you're in the mood for, this town has it covered, and all you need to join the dinner party is an adventurous palate. And since it's L.A., there's always the bonus of spotting celebrities.

Although it's those famous celebrity chef and celebrity-owned restaurants that attract most of the media limelight, the majority of L.A.'s best dining experiences are at its small neighborhood haunts and minimalls, the kind you'll never find unless someone lets you in on the city's dining secrets -- and this guide is full of them.

While dining in Los Angeles is almost always a hassle-free experience, there are a few things you should keep in mind:

• If you want a table at the restaurants with the best reputations, you should book several weeks in advance for weekends and at least 2 weeks ahead for weekdays.
• If there's a long wait for a table, ask if you can order at the bar, which is often faster and more fun.
• Don't leave anything valuable in your car while dining. Also, it's best to give the parking valet only the key to your car, not to your hotel room or house.
• Remember, it's against the law to smoke in any restaurant in California, even if it has a separate bar or lounge area. You're welcome to smoke outside, however.
• This ain't New York: Plan on dining early. Most restaurants close their kitchens around 10pm.

The restaurants listed are classified first by area and then by price, using the following categories: Very Expensive, dinner from $75 per person; Expensive, dinner from $50 per person; Moderate, dinner from $35 per person; and Inexpensive, dinner from $20 per person. These categories reflect prices for an appetizer, main course, dessert, and glass of wine.

L.A.'s Best Sushi & Stir-Fried Crickets

If you want to start a heated argument with L.A.'s foodies, just claim that you know where the best sushi in the city is served. Well, let the tongue-fu begin, because I'm claiming that the Hump (tel. 310/313-0977; www.thehump.biz) at the Santa Monica airport serves L.A.'s best. If I'm ever on death row, I want my last meal to be a giant plate of sushi prepared by these master chefs. Much of the seafood here is flown in daily from Tokyo's Tsukiji and Fukuoka fish markets in oxygen-filled containers and is so fresh that the management had to put a sign at the entrance to warn the faint-of-heart from sitting at the sushi bar. Why? Because much of what they slice is still moving. (When they cut the tails off the feisty giant sweet shrimp, they line up the flailing torsos conga-line style -- it's like a macabre death dance.) The specialties here are the dengaku (stuffed eggplant and avocado with seafood and miso sauce), live baby squid, live whitefish served in a martini glass with vinegary broth, hairy crab, live red snapper, and the most tender, flavorful baby hamachi I've ever had (and I live for hamachi). If you want to dine Ozzie-style, order the $220 snapping turtle (the blood goes well with a rich cabernet or port), the snake sake (yes, there's a snake in the bottle), and the blowfish (it's to die for). If the menu's all Greek to you, say "omakase" and get ready for a chef's choice seven-course seafood adventure.

Directly below the Hump is the much larger Typhoon (tel. 310/390-6565; www.typhoon-restaurant.com), a very popular and high-energy Pan-Asian restaurant where stir-fried Taiwanese spicy crickets, dried Manchurian ants, and Thai-style crispy white sea worms punctuate a family-style menu filled with less exotic fare from throughout Southeast Asia, most in the $7 to $12 range.

Both restaurants are located on the second and third floors of the airport's administration building at 3221 Donald Douglas Loop Rd. in Santa Monica. Call or visit the websites for direction and hours.

Sea Breezes & Sunsets: Oceanview Dining in Malibu

Beau Rivage, 26025 Pacific Coast Hwy. (at Corral Canyon; tel. 310/456-5733; www.beaurivagerestaurant.com). Though it's my only pick located on the other side of PCH from the beach, this romantic Mediterranean restaurant (whose name means "beautiful shore") has nearly unobstructed ocean views. The baby-pink villa and its flagstone dining patio are overgrown with flowering vines. The place is prettiest at sunset; romantic lighting takes over after dark. The menu is composed of country French and Italian dishes with plenty of moderately priced pastas, many with seafood. Other main courses are more expensive; they include chicken, duck, rabbit, and lamb, all traditionally prepared. An older, nicely dressed crowd tends to dine at this special-occasion place. It's open Monday through Saturday from 5 to 10pm, and Sunday from 11am to 10pm. Valet parking is $4 (Fri-Sat only; otherwise, free self-parking). Tip: Sunday's brunch menu, which isn't limited to breakfast dishes, is a less pricey alternative to dinner.

Duke's Malibu, 21150 Pacific Coast Hwy. (at Las Flores Canyon; tel. 310/317-0777; www.dukesmalibu.com). Lovers of Hawaii and all things Polynesian will thrive in this outpost of the Hawaiian chain. Imagine a South Pacific T.G.I. Friday's where the food is secondary to the decor, then add a rocky perch atop breaking waves, and you have this surfing-themed crowd-pleaser. It's worth a visit for the memorabilia alone -- the place is named for Hawaiian surf legend "Duke" Kahanamoku. Duke's offers up pretty good food at inflated but not outrageous prices. You'll find plenty of fresh fish prepared in the Hawaiian regional style, hearty surf and turf, a smattering of chicken and pasta dishes, and plenty of pupus to accompany Duke's Day-Glo tropical cocktails. The Sunday brunch buffet (10am-3pm) is a tasty deal at $22 for adults and $12 for kids. It's open Monday through Friday from 11:30am to 9pm, Saturday from 11:30am to 9:30pm, and Sunday from 11:30am to 10pm. Valet parking is $2 (dinner and weekends only; otherwise, free self-parking).

Gladstone's 4 Fish, 17300 Pacific Coast Hwy. (at Sunset Blvd.; tel. 310/454-3474; www.gladstones.com). A local tradition, Gladstone's is totally immersed in the Malibu scene. It shares a parking lot with a public beach, so the restaurant's wooden deck has a constant view of surfers, bikini-clad sunbathers, and other beachgoers. At busy times, Gladstone's even sets up picnic-style tables on the sand. Prices are moderate, and the atmosphere is casual. The menu offers several pages of fresh fish and seafood, augmented by a few salads and other meals for landlubbers -- it's mostly fried tourist food, but the large portions get the job done. Gladstone's is popular for afternoon/evening drinking and offers nearly 20 seafood appetizer platters; it's also known for its decadent chocolate dessert, the Mile High Chocolate Cake, large enough for the whole table. It's open Sunday through Thursday from 8am to 10pm, Friday and Saturday from 8am to 11pm. Parking is $4.50.

The Sturgeon King, Take 2

New Yorkers suffering L.A. culture shock can seek comfort food on the fifth floor of the Barneys New York department store in Beverly Hills. The elevator doors open and voilà -- a Barney Greengrass on the Left Coast. This authentic -- and expensive -- New York deli not only air-delivers their renowned smoked sturgeon and Nova Scotia salmon direct from the Big Apple, but it has even bejeweled the swanky lunch spot with subway-style tiles. You'll have to move quickly to get a coveted table on the outdoor terrace -- all those power lunchers from the entertainment industry won't hesitate. The raison d'être dishes here are the Nova Scotia salmon (or sturgeon) scrambled with eggs and onion, cheese blintzes, and chopped chicken liver sandwiches -- all washed down with New York-style seltzer water on tap. It's open Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday and Friday from 10am to 7pm; Thursday from 10am to 8pm; Saturday from 10am to 7pm; Sunday from noon to 6pm. 9570 Wilshire Blvd. (at Camden Dr.), Beverly Hills. tel. 310/276-4400.

Family-Friendly Restaurants

Cafe Pinot and Pinot Bistro are upscale offshoots of chic Patina that don't often come to mind when you're searching for family eats, and many kids are certainly too antsy to behave during an entire bistro meal. But the Pinot dynasty welcomes little ones with a special child-friendly menu, and kids 10 and under can order anything from the menu free of charge. It's a great way to enjoy L.A.'s finest and stay close to your budget, too.

On the other end of the scale is Pink's Hot Dogs in Hollywood, an institution that has been serving politically incorrect franks for what seems like forever. Everyone loves Pink's chili dogs, but you may never get the orange grease stains out of your kids' clothes.

The Mexican minichain Kay 'n Dave's Cantina is a great spot to fuel up with the kids at the start of a long day. They serve five kinds of fluffy pancakes, a killer breakfast burrito, enchiladas, fajitas, and more -- all cooked lard-free -- plus there's a kids' menu and crayons at every table.

Miceli's, in Universal City, is a cavernous Italian restaurant that the whole family is sure to love. The gimmick? The waitstaff sings show tunes or opera favorites while serving (and sometimes instead of). Kids will love the boisterous atmosphere, which might even drown them out.

Jerry's Famous Deli, in Studio City, is frequented mostly by industry types who populate this Valley community; their kids often sport baseball caps or production T-shirts from Mom's or Dad's latest project. Jerry's has the most extensive deli menu in town and a casual, coffee-shop atmosphere. Families flock here for lunch, early dinner, and (crowded) weekend breakfast.

Star Search: The Ivy League

If you're searching for incognito celebrities dining among us common folk, casually stroll past the elevated sidewalk patio at the Ivy, 113 N. Robertson Blvd. (btw. 3rd St. and Beverly Blvd.), West Hollywood, around 1pm. On a sunny day the odds are good (though the goods may be odd). If that doesn't pan out, walk over to the Palm, 9001 Santa Monica Blvd. (btw. Doheny Dr. and Robertson Blvd.), West Hollywood, and order a Coca-Cola at the bar followed by a long, leisurely trip to the risqué bathroom.

Dining in the Dark

Imagine dining at a restaurant where your entire meal -- bread, salad, entree, desert, wine -- is served in complete darkness. The pitch kind, where you can't see the person you're talking to you or your hand in front of your face. It's called Dining in the Dark, a nouveau European dining trend where specially trained blind or sight-impaired waitstaff serve three-course meals in a pitch-black dining room. Brought to the U.S. for the first time by German entrepreneur Ben Uphues, this highly entertaining event starts in a lighted lobby at the Hyatt West Hollywood, where you select your dinner and drinks from a set menu, then you're introduced and escorted by your waiter to the darkened dining room. It's a bit eerie and awkward at first (I buttered my hand more than once), but we were surprised at how quickly our other senses kicked into overdrive to make up for our loss of vision. Granted, the first few attempts at getting my Moroccan-barbecued salmon from fork to mouth were comical, but once I got my bearings I was pouring wine and sharing bites with aplomb. From the laughter emanating throughout the darkened dining room it appeared everyone else was enjoying their sightless experience as well. The evening isn't cheap -- $99 per person, not including gratuity and drinks -- but I guarantee this will be a dining experience that you'll never forget. It takes places most Friday and Saturday nights; for more information, log onto www.darkdining.com, or call tel. 800/710-1270.

Hallelujah!: A Brunch Worth Singing About

Have mercy and say "Hallelujah!" for the Gospel Brunch at the House of Blues (8430 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood; www.hob.com). For more than a decade, it's been a Sunday tradition at the HOB to feed both the body and soul with inspiring gospel performances and heaping plates of all-you-can-eat Southern home cookin'. Every week different gospel groups from around the region perform uplifting and energetic music that invariably gets the crowd on its feet and raising the roof. Seatings are every Sunday at 10am and 1pm. Tickets are $40, including tax and gratuity, and are available only through the HOB Sunset Strip box office; call tel. 323/848-5100.

Universal City

There are more than three dozen dining choices at Universal Studios, including those in Universal CityWalk. But just in case you need respite from the frenzied theme-park atmosphere, we've also included some of our favorite San Fernando Valley restaurants, which are within easy driving distance of Universal Studios.