Shopping

Whether you're looking for trendsetting fashions or just some tourist schlock mementos, Los Angeles has your shopping needs covered like no other place in the world. Heck, Los Angeles practically invented the shopping mall.

But to really shop L.A.-style, you need to combine your outing with a trip to a day spa and make it an all-day event. For example, if you're planning an outing to The Grove outdoor mall (highly recommended), first you make an appointment at the Amadeus Aveda spa (tel. 323/297-0311; www.amadeusaveda.com); make a lunch reservation at Maggiano's Little Italy (tel. 323/965-9665; www.maggianos.com); then go online to buy movie tickets to The Grove Theatres (tel. 323/692-0829; www.thegrovela.com). When the big day arrives, you meet your friends for coffee in the morning, hit the shops, check your packages with The Grove concierge, have lunch, enjoy your spa treatments, see a matinee, pick up your purchases, and call it a day. Nicely done.

A note on shopping hours: Street shops are generally open Monday through Saturday from 10 or 11am to 5 or 6pm. Many are open Sunday, particularly those near the beaches, movie theaters, or clusters of other stores. In addition, quite a few offer extended evening hours 1 night a week, often Wednesday or Thursday. Mall shops take their cue from the anchor department stores and generally open from 10am to 8 or 9pm. On Sunday, shave an hour or two off each side, while holiday periods increase mall hours substantially.

Sales tax in Los Angeles is 8.25%; savvy out-of-state shoppers know to have larger items shipped directly home to save the tax.

Urban Shopping Adventures

Shopping may be a casual pastime in other cities, but in the urban jungle of Los Angeles it's a competitive sport. If you're a shopping rookie at best, you might consider an outing with Urban Shopping Adventures, which offers custom guided shopping tours to the L.A. Fashion District -- 90 sprawling blocks loaded with wholesale and retail venues -- and the trendy Melrose Heights Shopping District, L.A.'s Westside destination for celebrity-frequented boutiques. Hosted by shopping expert Christine Silvestri, the 3-hour walking tours start at just $36 per person, and merchants are often willing to provide deep discounts to her tour guests. All shopping excursions include an ample-size shopping bag, district map, bottled water, snack, and plenty of time to browse at your own pace. She also offers round-trip transportation options such as shuttle, bus, or limousine service from your hotel to either district for an additional cost. Advance reservations are required for all tours, and additional shopping districts are also available upon request. Call tel. 213/683-9715 or log onto www.urbanshoppingadventures.com.

A Mecca For High-End Vintage

If your style is more Hepburn than Hilton, you won't want to miss the treasure-trove of high-end vintage shopping L.A. has to offer. Doris Raymond's The Way We Wore, 334 S. La Brea Ave. (tel. 323/937-0878), is a favorite among celebs and stylists for vintage Chanel, Balenciaga, and Fortuny. Can't afford Pucci prints? At the 12,000-square-foot Cherry West, 8250 Santa Monica Blvd. (tel. 323/650-4698), you can lease rare vintage gowns from Versace and Jean Paul Gaultier. Cameron Silver's Decades, 8214 1/2 Melrose Ave. (tel. 323/655-0223), is an L.A. institution, where you'll find frocks from Halston, Gucci, Lilly Pulitzer, and Missoni. Lily et Cie, 9044 Burton Way (tel. 310/724-5757), supplies many of the glamour gowns you see on the red carpet. Owner and vintage maven Rita Watnick has an impeccable collection of pieces from important designers like Yves Saint Laurent, Givenchy, and Trigere.

Lingerie Insider

Panty Raid, a very charming boutique, carries brands for the serious lingerie collector such as Cosabella, Mary Green, and Felina, as well as Hanky Panky (cute lace tank tops and boy short sets), Betsey Johnson, T & C California, Eberjey, and Only Hearts. A selection of hosiery, socks, yoga outfits, loungewear, and gift items -- including candles, and bath and body products -- is also available. 2378 1/2 Glendale Blvd., Los Angeles. tel. 323/668-1888.

Getting Artsy

If you're in an artsy mood, then a trip to Robertson Boulevard should be on your agenda. A gem is the Koplin del Rio Gallery, 6031 Washington Blvd., Culver City (tel. 310/836-9055; www.koplindelrio.com), which focuses on contemporary painting, drawing, and sculpture of established internationally known artists, as well as emerging California artists. The gallery's main emphasis is representational, figurative, landscape, and still-life works. If you haven't had your artistic fill, stop in at Gallery 825/Los Angeles Art Association (LAAA), 825 N. La Cienega Blvd., Los Angeles (tel. 310/652-8272; www.laaa.org). It's one of the oldest surviving visual arts organizations (nonprofit) in town and supports Southern California artists with an emphasis on emerging talent.

Where to Find Hollywood's Hand-Me-Downs

Admit it: You've dreamed of being a glamorous movie or TV star -- everyone has. Well, don't expect to be "discovered" during your L.A. vacation, but you can live out your fantasy by dressing the part. Costumes from famous movies, TV show wardrobes, cast-offs from celebrity closets -- they're easier to find (and more affordable to own) than you might think.

For sheer volume, you can't beat It's A Wrap, 3315 W. Magnolia Blvd., Burbank (tel. 818/567-7366; www.movieclothes.com). Every item here is marked with its place of origin, and the list is staggering: Beverly Hills, 90210; Melrose Place; Seinfeld; Baywatch; Seventh Heaven; Sabrina the Teenage Witch; American Beauty; The Truman Show; and so on. Many of these wardrobes (which include shoes and accessories) aren't outstanding except for their Hollywood origins: Jerry Seinfeld's trademark Polo shirts, for instance, are standard mall-issue. Some collectible pieces, like Sylvester Stallone's Rocky stars-and-stripes boxers, are framed and on display. Open Monday through Saturday from 11am to 6pm, and Sunday from 11am to 4pm.

When you're done at It's A Wrap, stop in across the street at Junk For Joy, 3314 W. Magnolia Blvd., Burbank (tel. 818/569-4903; www.junkforjoy.com). A Hollywood wardrobe coordinator or two will probably be hunting through the racks right beside you at this wacky little store. The emphasis here is on funky items more suitable as costumes than everyday wear (the store is mobbed each year around Halloween). When I visited, the shop was loaded with 1970s polyester shirts and tacky slacks, but you never know what you'll find. Open Tuesday through Friday from 10am to 6pm, and Saturday from 11am to 6pm.

The grande dame of all wardrobe and costume outlets is Western Costume, 11041 Vanowen St., North Hollywood (tel. 818/760-0900; www.westerncostume.com). In business since 1912, Western Costume still designs and executes wardrobes for major motion pictures; when filming is finished, the garments are added to their staggering rental inventory. This place is perhaps best known for outfitting Vivien Leigh in Gone With the Wind. Several of Scarlett O'Hara's memorable gowns were available for rent until they were auctioned off at a charity event. Western also maintains an outlet store, where damaged garments are sold at rock-bottom (nothing over $15) prices. If you're willing to do some rescue work, there are definitely hidden treasures here. Open for rentals Monday through Friday from 8am to 5:30pm, and for sales Tuesday through Friday from 10am to 5pm.

Finally, don't miss Golyester. This shop is almost a museum of finely preserved (but reasonably priced) vintage clothing and fabrics. The staff will gladly flip through stacks of Vogue magazines from the 1930s, 1940s, and 1950s with you, pointing out the lavish, star-studded original advertisements for various outfits in their stock. Open Monday through Saturday from 11am to 6pm.

For Bored Non-Shoppers: A Lamborghini Test-Drive

So, your better half has planned a full day of shopping and spa treatments and, after you drop her off at the mall, she won't need your services for a while. Since you're in L.A. -- where everyone's judged by the car they drive -- this is the perfect time to call Shawn Williams, a very down-to-earth car enthusiast who co-owns an exotic car dealership called Exclusive Motorcars. Even if you have no intention of buying or leasing a Ferrari or Lamborghini, he'll be happy to talk cars, take you on a tour of his showroom, and perhaps test drive a new or slightly used Bentley Continental GT, Mercedes SL600, or Porsche Carrera GT. If you're the type that has to have it now, you can drive your new baby while vacationing in L.A. (Shawn can arrange financing and insurance while you wait), then either take the car home or have it shipped. He'll be happy to arrange a short-term rental as well (me, I'd go with the black Ferrari F430 Spider F-1). If you want to make an appointment, call Shawn at tel. 310/558-3300, or just drop by the showroom at 10534 W. Pico Blvd. near Overland Ave. (Tell him Matt from Frommer's says hello.) It's open Monday through Friday 9am to 6pm, and Saturday 10am to 5pm. Log onto www.emcars.com.