What's New

Los Angeles and Madonna have a lot in common: They're always one step ahead of trends. Trying to keep up with the constant changes in this amorphous metropolis is a full-time job because what was "in" last year is probably out this year. Here's a short list of what's new in L.A. that's worth checking out (or checking into).

Hotels

If you haven't already made a hotel reservation, I've got some great recommendations for you. If you want to be entrenched in the Hollywood scene, you have to stay at the Roosevelt Hotel, Hollywood (tel. 800/950-7667; www.hollywoodroosevelt.com). The hotel just completed a $30-million renovation and is now the place to stay and play in the city. Hanging out by the pool and being served cocktails by models/actresses is a classic L.A. experience. Also playing into the narcissistic Hollywood theme is the swanky new Hotel Palomar Los Angeles (tel. 800/472-8556; www.hotelpalomar-lawestwood.com), where the modus operandi is to treat each guest like a celebrity V.I.P. by offering such perks as personal trainers and 24-hour in-room yoga and Pilates on your flatscreen TV.

If you would rather stay near the beach, I have two new insider tips for you: the Marina del Rey Marriott (tel. 800/228-9290; www.marriott.com) and the Best Western Marina Pacific Hotel & Suites (tel. 800/786-7789; www.mphotel.com). Yes, two chain hotels, but this is L.A., where nothing is quite as it seems. At the Marriott, for example, a subtle aromatherapy mixture called Zanzibar Mist and a soundtrack of ambient world beats circulate throughout the lobby, and the hotel's outdoor lounge is ranked as one of the top hotel lounges in the country by Playboy magazine. The newly renovated Best Western, meanwhile, has a groovy rock-'n'-roll theme, great rates, and oceanview rooms, and is within easy walking distance of Venice Beach.

Then again, if all you really want is a really nice room at a reasonable rate without any mist or models, the newly renovated boutique-style Elan Hotel (tel. 323/658-6663; www.elanhotel.com) is my top choice. They did a fantastic job with the decor, the staff is wonderful, and the central location makes driving around the city very convenient.

Attractions

The big news this year is the opening of L.A. LIVE (tel. 866/548-3452; www.lalive.com) in Downtown Los Angeles, a $2.5-billion mega-entertainment complex that's being optimistically hailed as Times Square West ("You, sir, are no Times Square."). Anchored by the Nokia Theatre and the STAPLES Center, the 6-square-block complex is crammed with restaurants, clubs, luxury condos, two hotels, a movie theater, and even a bowling alley. It's all part of the city's pricey push to revitalize the Downtown area and increase convention business.

At the Los Angeles Zoo (tel. 323/644-4200; www.lazoo.org) they've finally completed the new $19-million Campo Gorilla Reserve, a habitat for six African lowland gorillas that's designed to resemble their native West African homeland. Visitors walk along a misty, forested pathway that has glass viewing areas for close-up views of the gorillas. Over at the wonderful Natural History Museum (tel. 213/763-DINO [213/763-3466]; www.nhm.org), the inspiring new Thomas the T. rex Lab is ready for budding paleontologists. It's a specially designed workroom where visitors can watch the work of real paleontologists as they prepare and assemble the fossils of a 66-million-year-old Tyrannosaurus rex nicknamed "Thomas." It's one of many interactive exhibits that kids will find really cool.

The city has added some introspective attractions as well this year. At the Los Angeles County Museum of Art (tel. 323/857-6000; www.lacma.org), the highly anticipated Broad Contemporary Art Museum (also known as BCAM) has finally opened. The $56-million, three-story museum is one of the largest column-free art spaces in the U.S., hosting opening installations by such artists as Richard Serra, Andy Warhol, and Roy Lichtenstein. And at the Huntington Library, Art Collections & Botanical Gardens (tel. 626/405-2100; www.huntington.org), they've added a new Chinese Garden that is the largest classical garden outside mainland China and is landscaped with 12 acres of plants native to China.

Restaurants

The big news this year is the opening of Katsuya Hollywood (tel. 323/871-8777; www.sbe.com/katsuya), a collaboration between designer Philippe Starck and Master Sushi Chef Katsuya Uechi. If you want to spot celebrities on your vacation it's a good place to start (assuming you can get a reservation). But if you're more into food than famous people, my top two picks this year are Osteria Mozza (tel. 323/297-0100; www.mozza-la.com) and Fraîche (tel. 310/839-6800; www.fraicherestaurantla.com). The former is my new favorite restaurant in the city, and the latter is one of the most popular new restaurants in the city (and deservedly so).

If you're more into value with a side of kitsch, I highly recommend Luckyfish (tel. 310/274-9800; www.luckyfishsushi.com) in Beverly Hills and the Waffle (tel. 323/465-6901; www.thewaffle.us) in Hollywood. Luckyfish is a lively sushi restaurant that uses an ultramodern conveyer belt system to deliver mini-size plates of fresh fish, while the Waffle is a modern take on a diner classic, serving cornmeal jalapeño waffles and maple syrup martinis to a hip crowd.

Nightlife

The irony of clubs in L.A. is that you can't get in the ones everyone talks about. If you're under 30 and have the look, you probably won't have any problem getting into some of the newer clubs, such as Green Door (tel. 323/463-0008) in Hollywood or Winston's (tel. 323/654-0105) in West Hollywood. Of course, you'll need the address because they don't have signage.

But if standing in line so a bouncer can determine your eligibility isn't your idea of a fun night out, here are a few hip alternatives that still provide that only-in-L.A. experience: The new Bar Nineteen12 (tel. 310/273-1912; www.barnineteen12.com) within the Beverly Hills Hotel doubles as a good excuse to check out the legendary hotel and is an easy way to spot celebrities; Nic's Beverly Hills (tel. 310/550-5707; www.nicsbeverlyhills.com) serves the city's best martinis in a lively, snob-free setting, despite its central B.H. location; and Glow (tel. 310/578-4152; www.glow-bar.com) at the Marriott in Marina Del Rey is the sexiest hotel lounge I've ever seen. All three are good bets for a fun night in L.A.