What's New

L.A. and Madonna have a lot in common: They're always one step ahead of the trends. Trying to keep up with the constant changes in this amorphous metropolis is a full-time job because what was in last year is probably out this year.

For example, you've probably never heard of the Los Angeles Galaxy soccer team, but now that soccer mega-superstar David Beckham and his pop star wife, Victoria Beckham, have crossed the pond to play in L.A., it's now "in" to go to a Major League Soccer match at the Home Depot Center (tel. 877-3GALAXY; www.lagalaxy.com). Move over, Kobe -- there's a new kid in town.

Where to Stay

If you can afford it (really, it's worth the splurge), book a room at the newly reopened Sunset Tower Hotel (tel. 800/225-2637; www.sunsettowerhotel.com). It's one of my favorites, offering just about everything you could hope for in a Los Angeles hotel -- a celebrity-filled history, glamour, non-snooty service, beautiful Deco-era decor, and an ideal Sunset Strip location.

Another newcomer is the Westside's Hotel Angeleno Los Angeles (tel. 866/264-3536; www.hotelangeleno.com), one of those old-school circular hotels from the 1960s that has been revamped into a hip hostelry complete with a penthouse restaurant and lounge that's overflowing with L.A. young and beautiful.

For serious shoppers and those who hate to drive, I've included The Orlando (800/62-HOTEL; www.theorlando.com). Located in the heart of the Third Street Shopping District between Beverly Hills and West Hollywood, it's within walking distance of The Grove, Farmer's Market, and the Beverly Center, so you can leave the car in the parking lot for most of your stay.

Where to Dine

It's yet another crazy year for restaurant openings (and closings) in L.A. What has all the local foodies agog this year is the opening of celeb-chef Nancy Silverton's Pizzeria Mozza (tel. 323/297-0101; www.mozza-la.com). Locals are calling up to 2 months in advance for an opportunity to experience Nancy's artisanal pies -- yes, it's worth the wait -- and the celebrity-spotting here is currently the best bet in the city.

Other new additions this year include the Kings Road Cafe (tel. 323/655-9044; www.kingsroadcafe.com), a local favorite with sunny sidewalk seating, a fantastic chipotle chicken salad, great people-watching, and the occasional celebrity sighting; The Little Door (tel. 323/951-1210; www.thelittledoor.com), one of L.A.'s most romantic restaurants serving French/Mediterranean cuisine in a countryside-quaint setting; Katana Robata & Sushi Bar (tel. 323/650-8585; www.katanarobata.com), a sexy Sunset Strip Japanese restaurant that introduced robata-yaki to L.A.'s sushi-addicted pretty people; and the Saddle Ranch Chop House (tel. 323/656-2007; www.srrestaurants.com), a hokey but fun taste of Texas on the Sunset Strip, complete with big platters of ribs, giant cocktails, and even a mechanical bull.

Attractions

Big news this year is the reopening of the historic Rebel Without A Cause hangout, the Griffith Observatory (tel. 213/473-0800; www.griffithobservatory.org), which was closed for renovation for what seemed like forever and finally reopened after a massive $93-million makeover. Be sure to make a shuttle reservation ASAP and arrive early to score tickets to the new Planetarium show.

The city's other must-see newcomer is the Getty Villa Malibu (tel. 310/440-7300; www.getty.edu). After 8 years and $275 million, the newly renovated Villa -- the former residence of J. Paul Getty -- is the most talked-about attraction in the city, combining dazzling ocean views, stunning architecture, and no admission charge to peruse a world-class collection of Greek, Roman, and Etruscan artifacts.

If this is all too cerebral for you, opt instead for a beachside bicycle tour now being offered by Perry's Beach Café & Rentals in Santa Monica (tel. 310/372-3138). It's a great way to explore the area while learning about its history and landmark architecture.

Nightlife

If you want to see a play or performance while you're in town, you definitely want to stop by the new Visitor Information Center at the Hollywood & Highland Center at 6801 Hollywood Blvd. Sure, they carry the ubiquitous tourist brochures, but it's the half-price theater tickets they sell to dozens of venues throughout the city that makes this big news. Tickets are released on Tuesdays for shows that week, so visitors can select not only the production but the specific day they would like to attend. By the way, one of those entertainment venues is the new 7,200-seat Nokia Theatre, part of the $4.5-billion, 4-million-square-foot "LA Live" complex being built over the next 5 years to complement the STAPLES Center and the Los Angeles Convention Center.

In West Hollywood, the new Eleven (tel. 310/855-0800; www.eleven.la) restaurant and nightclub is the current celebrity hot spot. It's called Eleven because at that appointed time there's a sort of Cirque du Soleil-style performance involving a high-wire setup. Not that there's anything wrong with being a WeHo nightclub, but I prefer the new 18th-floor Penthouse restaurant, bar, and lounge at the Huntley Santa Monica Beach hotel (tel. 310/394-5454; www.thehuntleyhotel.com). The combo of incredible views, lively bar scene, top-notch eye-candy, and zero attitude make this my kind of club (and hotel).

And because it made international news headlines, I've also added the Laugh Factory (tel. 323/656-1336; www.laughfactory.com) to the comedy club lineup. Yes, this is where Michael Richards, aka Kramer, made a complete ass of himself (and where Mr. Richards is no longer welcome).