Getting There

By Plane

LAX and Other Airports

There are five airports in the Los Angeles area. Most visitors fly into Los Angeles International Airport (tel. 310/646-5252; www.lawa.org/lax), better known as LAX. This behemoth -- ranked fourth in the world for number of passengers handled -- is situated oceanside, between Marina del Rey and Manhattan Beach. LAX is a convenient place to land; it's located within minutes of Santa Monica and the beaches, and not more than a half-hour from Downtown, Hollywood, and the Westside. Despite its size, the eight-terminal airport has a straightforward, easy-to-understand design. Free blue, green, and white shuttle buses connect the terminals and stop in front of each ticket building. Special minibuses accessible to travelers with disabilities are also available. Travelers Aid of Los Angeles (tel. 310/646-2270; www.travelersaid.org) operates booths in each terminal. You can find extensive information about LAX -- including maps, parking, and shuttle-van information, and links to weather forecasts -- online at www.lawa.org. All car-rental agencies are in the neighborhood surrounding LAX, within a few minutes' drive; each provides a complimentary shuttle to and from the airport.

For some travelers, one of the area's smaller airports might be more convenient than LAX. Bob Hope Airport (2627 N. Hollywood Way, Burbank; tel. 818/840-8840; www.bobhopeairport.com) is the best place to land if you're headed for Hollywood or the valleys -- and it's even closer to Downtown L.A. than LAX. The small airport has especially good links to Las Vegas and other southwestern cities. Long Beach Municipal Airport (4100 Donald Douglas Dr., Long Beach; tel. 562/570-2600; www.lgb.org), south of LAX, is the best place to land if you're visiting Long Beach or northern Orange County and want to avoid L.A. John Wayne Airport (19051 Airport Way N., Anaheim; tel. 949/252-5200; www.ocair.com) is closest to Disneyland, Knott's Berry Farm, and other Orange County attractions. Ontario International Airport (Terminal Way, Ontario; tel. 909/937-2700; www.lawa.org/ont) is not a popular airport for tourists; businesspeople use it to head to San Bernardino, Riverside, and other inland communities. However, it's convenient if you're heading to Palm Springs, and also a viable choice if you're staying in Pasadena.

Tip: How to Stay Comfortable on Long-Haul Flights

• Your choice of airline and airplane will definitely affect your leg room. Find more details about U.S. airlines at www.seatguru.com. For international airlines, the research firm Skytrax has posted a list of average seat pitches at www.airlinequality.com.

• Emergency exit seats and bulkhead seats typically have the most legroom. Emergency exit seats are usually left unassigned until the day of a flight (to ensure that someone able-bodied fills the seats); it's worth getting to the ticket counter early to snag one of these spots for a long flight. Many passengers find that bulkhead seating (the row facing the wall at the front of the cabin) offers more legroom, but keep in mind that bulkhead seats have no storage space on the floor in front of you.

• To have two seats for yourself in a three-seat row, try for an aisle seat in a center section toward the back of coach. If you're traveling with a companion, book an aisle and a window seat. Middle seats are usually booked last, so chances are good you'll end up with three seats to yourselves. And in the event that a third passenger is assigned the middle seat, he or she will probably be more than happy to trade for a window or an aisle.

• Ask about entertainment options. Many airlines offer seatback video systems where you get to choose your movies or play video games -- but only on some of their planes. (Boeing 777s are your best bet.)

• To sleep, avoid the last row of any section or the row in front of an emergency exit, as these seats are the least likely to recline. Avoid seats near highly trafficked toilet areas. Avoid seats in the back of many jets -- these can be narrower than those in the rest of coach. Or reserve a window seat so you can rest your head and avoid being bumped in the aisle.

• Get up, walk around, and stretch every 60 to 90 minutes to keep your blood flowing. This helps avoid deep vein thrombosis, or "economy-class syndrome."

• Drink water before, during, and after your flight to combat the lack of humidity in airplane cabins. Avoid caffeine and alcohol, which will dehydrate you.

• If you're flying with kids, don't forget to carry on toys, books, pacifiers, and snacks and chewing gum to help them relieve ear pressure buildup during ascent and descent.

Tip: Coping with Jet Lag: Jet lag is a pitfall of traveling across time zones. If you're flying north-south and you feel sluggish when you touch down, your symptoms will be the result of dehydration and the general stress of air travel. When you travel east-west or vice versa, however, your body becomes thoroughly confused about what time it is, and everything from your digestive system to your brain is knocked for a loop. Traveling east, say from San Francisco to Boston, is more difficult on your internal clock than traveling west, say from Atlanta to Hawaii, because most peoples' bodies are more inclined to stay up late than fall asleep early.

Here are some tips for combating jet lag:

• Reset your watch to your destination time before you board the plane.

• Drink lots of water before, during, and after your flight. Avoid alcohol.

• Exercise and sleep well for a few days before your trip.

• If you have trouble sleeping on planes, fly eastward on morning flights.

• Daylight is the key to resetting your body clock. At the website for Outside In (www.bodyclock.com), you can get a customized plan of when to seek and avoid light.

Tips for Getting the Best Airfare

• Passengers who can book their ticket either long in advance or at the last minute, or who fly midweek or at less-trafficked hours may pay a fraction of the full fare. If your schedule is flexible, say so, and ask if you can secure a cheaper fare by changing your flight plans.

• Search the Internet for cheap fares. The most popular online travel agencies are Travelocity.com (www.travelocity.co.uk); Expedia.com (www.expedia.co.uk and www.expedia.ca); and Orbitz.com. In the U.K., go to Travelsupermarket (tel. 0845/345-5708; www.travelsupermarket.com), a flight search engine that offers flight comparisons for the budget airlines whose seats often end up in bucket-shop sales. Other websites for booking airline tickets online include Cheapflights.com, SmarterTravel.com, Priceline.com, and Opodo (www.opodo.co.uk). Meta search sites (which find and then direct you to airline and hotel websites for booking) include Sidestep.com and Kayak.com -- the latter includes fares for budget carriers like Jet Blue and Spirit as well as the major airlines. Site59.com is a great source for last-minute flights and getaways. In addition, most airlines offer online-only fares that even their phone agents know nothing about. British travelers should check Flights International (tel. 0800/0187050; www.flights-international.com) for deals on flights all over the world.

• Watch local newspapers for promotional specials or fare wars, when airlines lower prices on their most popular routes. Also keep an eye on price fluctuations and deals at websites such as Airfarewatchdog.com and Farecast.com.

• Try to book a ticket in its country of origin. If you're planning a one-way flight from Johannesburg to New York, a South Africa-based travel agent will probably have the lowest fares. For foreign travelers on multi-leg trips, book in the country of the first leg; for example, book Los Angeles-Chicago-Montréal-Los Angeles in the U.S.

• Consolidators, also known as bucket shops, are wholesale brokers in the airline-ticket game. Consolidators buy deeply discounted tickets ("distressed" inventories of unsold seats) from airlines and sell them to online ticket agencies, travel agents, tour operators, corporations, and, to a lesser degree, the general public. Consolidators advertise in Sunday newspaper travel sections (often in small ads with tiny type), both in the U.S. and the U.K. They can be great sources for cheap international tickets. On the downside, bucket shop tickets are often rigged with restrictions, such as stiff cancellation penalties (as high as 50%-75% of the ticket price). And keep in mind that most of what you see advertised is of limited availability. Several reliable consolidators are worldwide and available online. STA Travel (www.statravel.com) has been the world's leading consolidator for students since purchasing Council Travel, but their fares are competitive for travelers of all ages. Flights.com (tel. 800/TRAV-800; www.flights.com) has excellent fares worldwide, particularly to Europe. They also have "local" websites in 12 countries. FlyCheap (tel. 800/FLY-CHEAP; www.1800flycheap.com) has especially good fares to sunny destinations. Air Tickets Direct (tel. 800/778-3447; www.airticketsdirect.com) is based in Montreal and leverages the currently weak Canadian dollar for low fares; they also book trips to places that U.S. travel agents won't touch, such as Cuba.

• Join frequent-flier clubs. Frequent-flier membership doesn't cost a cent, but it does entitle you to free tickets or upgrades when you amass the airline's required number of frequent-flier points. You don't even have to fly to earn points; frequent-flier credit cards can earn you thousands of miles for doing your everyday shopping. But keep in mind that award seats are limited, seats on popular routes are hard to snag, and more and more major airlines are cutting their expiration periods for mileage points -- so check your airline's frequent-flier program so you don't lose your miles before you use them. Inside tip: Award seats are offered almost a year in advance, but seats also open up at the last minute, so if your travel plans are flexible, you may strike gold. To play the frequent-flier game to your best advantage, consult the community bulletin boards on FlyerTalk (www.flyertalk.com) or go to Randy Petersen's Inside Flyer (www.insideflyer.com). Petersen and friends review all the programs in detail and post regular updates on changes in policies and trends.

Arriving at the Airport

Immigration and Customs Clearance -- Foreign visitors arriving by air, no matter what the port of entry, should cultivate patience and resignation before setting foot on U.S. soil. U.S. airports have considerably beefed up security clearances in the years since the terrorist attacks of 9/11, and clearing Customs and Immigration can take as long as 2 hours.

People traveling by air from Canada, Bermuda, and certain Caribbean countries can sometimes clear Customs and Immigration at the point of departure, which is much faster.

Getting into Town from the Airport

By Car -- To reach Santa Monica and other northern beach communities, exit the airport, take Sepulveda Boulevard north, and follow the signs to California 1 (Pacific Coast Hwy., or PCH) north. You can take the I-405 north, but you'll be sorry you did -- that stretch of freeway is always heavily congested.

To reach Redondo, Hermosa, Newport, and the other southern beach communities, take Sepulveda Boulevard south and then follow the signs to California 1 south.

To reach Beverly Hills or Hollywood, exit the airport via Century Boulevard and then take I-405 north to Santa Monica Boulevard east.

To reach Downtown or Pasadena, exit the airport, take Sepulveda Boulevard south, then take I-105 east to I-110 north.

Tip: If you're going to rent a car at the LAX airport, avoid arriving at the midweek morning or evening rush hour, particularly if you have to get on dreaded I-405. You'll save yourself several hours of stop-and-go misery if you time it right.

By Shuttle -- Many city hotels provide free shuttles for their guests; ask when you make reservations. SuperShuttle (tel. 800/258-3826 or 310/782-6600; www.supershuttle.com) offers regularly scheduled minivans from LAX to any location in the city. The fare can range from about $15 to $35 per person, depending on your destination. It's cheaper to cab it to most places if you're a group of three or more, but you might have to stop at other passengers' destinations before you reach your own. Reservations aren't needed for your arrival but are required for a return to the airport.

Tip: A Shortcut to LAX: One of the city's busiest interchanges is from the Santa Monica Freeway (I-10) to the San Diego Freeway (I-405) on the way to Los Angeles International Airport -- many a tourist has missed a flight because of this beastly bottleneck. Therefore, if you're heading to LAX for your flight home, the scenic route may prove to be the fastest. From the Santa Monica Freeway (I-10) westbound, exit south to La Brea Avenue. Go right on Stocker Street and then left on La Cienega Boulevard. Veer right on La Tijera Boulevard and left on Airport Boulevard, then follow the signs. You can use this trick from West Hollywood and Beverly Hills as well -- simply take La Cienega south, continuing as above.

By Taxi -- Taxis line up outside each terminal on the lower level. Rides are metered. Expect to pay about $35 to Hollywood and Downtown, $25 to Beverly Hills, $20 to Santa Monica, and $45 to $60 to the Valley and Pasadena, including a $2.50 service charge for rides originating at LAX.

Tip: Don't Stow It -- Ship It: Though pricey, it's sometimes worthwhile to travel luggage-free, particularly if you're toting sports equipment, meetings materials, or baby equipment. Specialists in door-to-door luggage delivery include Virtual Bellhop (www.virtualbellhop.com); SkyCap International (www.skycapinternational.com); Luggage Express (www.usxpluggageexpress.com); and Sports Express (www.sportsexpress.com).

By Rail -- Budget-minded travelers heading to Downtown, Universal City, or Long Beach can take L.A.'s Metro Rail service from LAX. An airport shuttle can take you to the Green Line light-rail station; from there, connections on the Blue, Gold, and Red lines can get you where you're headed. It's a good idea to contact your hotel for advice on the closest station. The service operates from 5am to midnight, and the combined fare is under $2 -- but you should be prepared to spend 1 to 2 hours in transit. Call the Los Angeles County Metropolitan Transit Authority (MTA) at tel. 800/COMMUTE, or see www.mta.net for information.

By Public Bus -- The city's MTA buses also go between LAX and many parts of the city. Phone MTA Airport Information (tel. 800/COMMUTE; www.mta.net) for the schedules and fares. If you're arriving at LAX and your hotel is in Santa Monica, you can hop aboard the city's Big Blue Bus (tel. 310/451-5444; www.bigbluebus.com). It's a slow ride, but the price, 75¢, is hard to beat. Bus information is available in the baggage claim area of each LAX terminal.

By Car

Los Angeles is well connected to the rest of the United States by several major highways -- in fact, L.A. has the highest rate of bank robberies in the U.S. because it's so easy to make a fast getaway. Among them are Interstate 5, which enters the state from the north; Interstate 10, which originates in Jacksonville, Florida, and terminates in Los Angeles; and U.S. 101, a scenic route that follows the western seaboard from Los Angeles north to the Oregon state line.

If you're driving from the north, you have two choices: the quick route, along I-5 through the middle of the state; or the scenic route along the coast. Heading south along I-5, you'll pass a small town called Grapevine. This marks the start of the mountain pass with the same name. Once you've reached the southern end of the pass, you'll be in the San Fernando Valley, which is the start of Los Angeles County. To reach the beach communities and L.A.'s Westside, take I-405 south (Hello traffic!); to get to Hollywood, take California 170 south to U.S. 101 south (this route is called the Hollywood Fwy. the entire way); I-5 will take you along the eastern edge of Downtown and into Orange County.

If you're taking the scenic coastal route from the north, take U.S. 101 to I-405 or I-5, or stay on U.S. 101, following the instructions above to your destination.

If you're approaching from the east, you'll be coming in on I-10. For Orange County, take California 57 south. I-10 continues through Downtown and terminates at the beach. If you're heading to the Westside, take I-405 north. To get to the beaches, take California 1 (PCH) north or south, depending on your destination.

From the south, head north on I-5 at the southern end of Orange County. I-405 splits off to the west; take this road to the Westside and beach communities. Stay on I-5 to reach Downtown and Hollywood.

Here are some driving times if you're on one of those see-the-USA car trips: From Phoenix, it's about 350 miles, or 6 hours (okay, 7 if you drive the speed limit) to Los Angeles via I-10. Las Vegas is 265 miles northeast of Los Angeles (about a 4- or 5-hr. drive). San Francisco is 390 miles north of Los Angeles on I-5 (6-7 hr.), and San Diego is 115 miles south (about 2 hr.).

If you're visiting from abroad and plan to rent a car in the United States, you probably won't need the services of an additional automobile organization. If you plan to buy or borrow a car, automobile-association membership is recommended. AAA, the American Automobile Association (tel. 800/222-4357; http://travel.aaa.com), is the country's largest auto club and supplies its members with maps, insurance and, most importantly, emergency road service. Note: Foreign driver's licenses are usually recognized in the U.S., but you should get an international one if your home license is not in English.

By Train

Amtrak (tel. 800/USA-RAIL; www.amtrak.com) connects Los Angeles with about 500 American cities. As with plane travel along popular routes, fares fluctuate depending on the season and special promotions. As a general rule, heavily restricted advance tickets are competitive with similar airfares. Remember, however, that those low fares are for coach travel in reclining seats; private sleeping accommodations cost substantially more.

The Sunset Limited is Amtrak's regularly scheduled transcontinental service, originating in Florida and making 52 stops along the way as it passes through Alabama, Mississippi, Louisiana, Texas, New Mexico, and Arizona before arriving in Los Angeles 2 days later. Amtrak's Coast Starlight travels along the Pacific Coast between Seattle and Los Angeles. This stylish train (with its wonderfully scenic route) has been steadily growing in popularity.

Amtrak also runs trains along the California coast, connecting San Diego, Los Angeles, San Francisco, and all points in between. There are multiple trains each day. One-way fares for popular segments can range from $22 (Los Angeles-Santa Barbara) to $25 (Los Angeles-San Diego) to $87 (San Francisco-Los Angeles) but, again, fares fluctuate.

Ask about special family plans, tours, and other money-saving promotions. You can call for a brochure outlining routes and prices for the entire system; up-to-date schedules and fares are also available on Amtrak's comprehensive -- but often unwieldy -- website (www.amtrak.com). Better yet, log on to Amtrak's California website: www.amtrakcalifornia.com. It's far more user-friendly and lists only California schedules and special fares.

The L.A. train terminus is Union Station, 800 N. Alameda (tel. 213/617-0111), on Downtown's northern edge. Completed in 1939, this was the last of America's great train depots -- a unique blend of Spanish Revival and Streamline Moderne architecture. From the station, you can take one of the taxis that line up outside; board the Metro Red Line to Hollywood or Universal City; or take the Metro Blue Line to Long Beach. If you're headed to the San Fernando Valley or Anaheim, Metrolink commuter trains leave from Union Station; call tel. 800/371-LINK (www.metrolinktrains.com).

International visitors can buy a USA Rail Pass, good for 15 or 30 days of unlimited travel on Amtrak (tel. 800/USA-RAIL; www.amtrak.com). The pass is available through many overseas travel agents. See Amtrak's website for the cost of travel within the western, eastern, or northwestern United States. With a foreign passport, you can also buy passes directly from some Amtrak locations, including San Francisco, Los Angeles, Chicago, New York, Miami, Boston, and Washington, D.C. Reservations are generally required and should be made as early as possible. Regional rail passes are also available.