Neighborhoods Worth a Visit

Los Angeles has the highest concentration of Mexicans outside Mexico, Koreans outside Korea, and even Samoans outside Samoa. Tiny Russian, Ethiopian, Armenian, and even British enclaves also coexist throughout L.A. But to call the city a "melting pot" wouldn't be quite accurate; to paraphrase Alex Haley, it's really more of a tossed salad, composed of distinct, albeit overlapping, cultures.

The following neighborhoods all fall under the "Downtown" label.

A Great Day in Downtown L.A.

If you haven't heard the news, it's hip to hang out in Downtown L.A. these days. What used to be a ghost town after 5pm is speedily becoming a trendy destination as chic hotels (the Standard), bars (Edison), and venues (Walt Disney Concert Hall) sprout up like weeds between all those tall buildings. Start the day early with a 9¢ cup of coffee and cinnamon-dipped French toast at Philippe The Original. At 10am, join the gaggle for a highly entertaining Inside Historic Downtown L.A. Walking Tour hosted by Red Line Tours, followed by a self-guided audio tour of the spectacular new Walt Disney Concert Hall (bring a camera).

Time for lunch, so spend a few hours noshing your way through the dozens of ethnic food stalls at the Grand Central Market. After lunch, the options abound: Wander the Jewelry District (a must-do is the beautiful open-air St. Vincent's Jewelry Center, the largest jewelry complex in the world) for great finds on cheap costume jewelry, or tour the poignant Japanese American National Museum or Museum of Contemporary Art. If you did your homework, you already made reservations for a play or performance at the Dorothy Chandler Pavilion or Walt Disney Concert Hall. After the show, it's time for a late-night bite at the suave Noé restaurant at the Omni hotel, which stays open until midnight during performances. Cap off this grand day with a martini at the revolving BonaVista cocktail lounge high atop the Westin Bonaventure Hotel. Tip: Be sure to get a DASH shuttle map so you can get around Downtown quickly and easily; rides are only 25¢.

Secrets of Santa Monica

If you're the type of traveler who eschews crowded tourist attractions, here are a few of my favorite places in Santa Monica that only the locals know about:

Camera Obscura -- It's well named, because even most Santa Monicans don't know about this truly obscure attraction though they've passed right by it countless times. Located within the Senior Recreation Center in Palisades Park, the Camera Obscura (which is Latin for "dark room"), is, well, a dark room that's round and has a white circular table in the middle. Turn the old boat steering wheel, which turns the overhead periscope thingy, and a reverse projection of the park, ocean, and avenue is reflected onto the table (that's your car getting a parking ticket). It's an ancient invention that offers a few minutes of mindless voyeuristic amusement in a modern world. To see it you have to go into the Senior Center (mmmm, smell that Salisbury steak!), give the person at the desk your driver's license, and get the key to the Camera Obscura door located up the stairs to your right. The whole experience is a bit surreal, but fun (and free). It's open Monday to Friday 9am to 2pm and Saturday 11am to 4pm. 1450 Ocean Ave., between Broadway and Santa Monica Boulevard, Santa Monica (tel. 310/458-8644).

Father's Office -- If you just want to tuck into a great burger and a beer without having to endure the Santa Monica tourist scene, join the young and beautiful at Father's Office, a small, unpretentious beer bar and grill that offers 40 beers on tap and one of the best burgers in L.A. -- dry-aged sirloin with a composite of apple wood-smoked bacon, caramelized onion, arugula, Gruyère, and Maytag blue cheese on a French roll. Addictive french fries are piled into toy shopping carts (you'll see). It's usually standing room only on most evenings so come early if you want a table. 1018 Montana Ave., at 10th Street, Santa Monica (tel. 310/393-2337; www.fathersoffice.com).

Chez Jay's -- It may look like a dumpy bar (okay, it is a dumpy bar), but it's my kind of dumpy bar. Located on a multimillion-dollar plot of land near the Santa Monica Pier, this creaky classic is owned and run by Jay "Peanuts" Fiondella, a gray-bearded old-timer who won't sell out to developers at any price. Marlon Brando, Frank Sinatra, Peter Sellers, Kevin Spacey, Madonna, George Clooney -- they've all been regulars at one time or another during the past 45 years. Rumor has it astronaut Alan Shepard took a peanut from Jay's to the moon and back (and Steve McQueen tried to eat it). Naturally, there's a jukebox in the corner, a marlin mounted on the wall, peanut shells on the floor, and well-worn red vinyl booths. I hear they serve a great steak but I've never seen the menu. The place is a bit hard to find -- look for the little neon sign on the east side of Ocean Avenue, 1/2 block south of the pier. No cover. 1657 Ocean Ave., between Pico Boulevard and Colorado Avenue, Santa Monica (tel. 310/395-1741; www.chezjays.com).