The Top Shopping Streets & Neighborhoods

Hollywood Boulevard (between Gower St. and La Brea Ave.)

One of Los Angeles's most famous streets is, for the most part, a cheesy tourist strip. But along the Walk of Fame, between the T-shirt shops and greasy pizza parlors, you'll find some excellent poster shops, souvenir stores, and Hollywood-memorabilia dealers worth getting out of your car for -- especially if there's a chance of getting your hands on that long-sought-after Ethel Merman autograph or 200 Motels poster.

Some long-standing purveyors of memorabilia include Hollywood Book and Poster Company, 6562 Hollywood Blvd. (tel. 323/465-8764; www.hollywoodbookandposter.com), which has an excellent collection of posters (from about $15 each), strong in horror and exploitation flicks. Photocopies of about 5,000 movie and television scripts are sold for $10 to $15 each -- Pulp Fiction is just as good in print, by the way -- and the store carries music posters and photos. The Collector's Book Store, 6225 Hollywood Blvd (tel. 323/467-3296; www.collectorsbookstore.com), is a movie buff's dream, with enough printed memorabilia for an afternoon of browsing; vintage copies of Photoplay and other fan mags cost $2 to $5, and the selection of biographies is outstanding.

The legendary Fredericks of Hollywood, 6751 Hollywood Blvd. (tel. 323/957-5953; www.fredericks.com), located just a block east of Hollywood & Highland, is worth a stop if you're looking for devilish dainties. The flagship store features lingerie once worn by celebrities like Sharon Stone, Julianne Moore, and Halle Berry.

Larchmont Boulevard (between Beverly Blvd. and 2nd St.)

Neighbors congregate on this old-fashioned street just east of busy Vine Avenue. As the surrounding Hancock Park homes become increasingly popular with artists and young industry types, the shops and cafes lining Larchmont get more stylish. Sure, chains like Jamba Juice and The Coffee Bean are infiltrating this formerly mom-and-pop terrain, but plenty of unique shopping awaits amid charming elements like diagonal parking, shady trees, and sidewalk bistro tables.

One of L.A.'s landmark independent bookstores is Chevalier's Books, 126 N. Larchmont Blvd. (tel. 323/465-1334), a 60-year Larchmont tradition. If your walking shoes are letting you down, stop into Village Footwear, 248 N. Larchmont Blvd. (tel. 323/461-3619), which specializes in comfort lines like Josef Siebel. Or even better, stop in for a foot -- or full body -- massage at Healing Hands Wellness Center, 414 N. Larchmont Blvd. (tel. 323/461-7876; www.healinghandswc.com), which has affordable 1-hour massages starting at $55. An entire afternoon of pampering can be had at Le Petite Retreat Day Spa, 331 N. Larchmont Blvd. (tel. 323/466-1028; www.lprdayspa.com), which offers great packages for couples or a girls' day out.

Melrose Avenue (between Fairfax and La Brea aves.)

It's showing some wear -- some stretches have become downright ugly -- but this is still one of the most exciting shopping streets in the country for cutting-edge fashions (and some eye-popping people-watching, to boot). Melrose is always an entertaining stroll, dotted with plenty of hip restaurants and funky shops selling the latest in clothes, gifts, jewelry, and accessories that are sure to shock. Where else could you find green patent-leather cowboy boots, a working 19th-century pocket watch, an inflatable girlfriend, and glow-in-the-dark condoms on the same block? From east to west, here are some highlights.

l.a. Eyeworks, 7407 Melrose Ave. (tel. 323/653-8255), revolutionized eyeglass designs from medical supply to stylish accessory, and now their brand is nationwide. Off the Wall is filled with neon-flashing, bells-and-whistles kitsch collectibles, from vintage Wurlitzer jukeboxes to life-size fiberglass cows. The L.A. branch of a Bay Area hipster hangout, Wasteland has an enormous steel-sculpted facade. There's a lot of leather and denim, and some classic vintage -- but mostly funky 1970s-style garb, both vintage and contemporary. More racks of vintage treasures (and trash) are found at Aardvark's Odd Ark, which stocks everything from suits and dresses to neckties, hats, handbags, and jewelry. This place also manages to anticipate some of the hottest new street fashions. An outpost of the edgy Floyd's Barbershops, 7300 Melrose Ave. (tel. 323/965-7600), keeps the street's style-for-less theme by charging around $16 for men's and women's cuts. It's like a salon, funky music store, and Internet cafe all rolled into one.

Melrose Heights (between La Cienega Blvd. and Fairfax Ave.)

This posh section of Melrose, anchored by the venerable favorite Fred Segal, 8100 Melrose Ave. (tel. 323/655-3734), houses designer boutiques such as Diane Von Furstenberg, 8407 Melrose Ave. (tel. 323/951-1947); and Paul Smith, 8221 Melrose Ave. (tel. 323/951-4800). L.A. jewelry designer Suzanne Felsen, 8332 Melrose Ave. (tel. 323/653-5400), is a celebrity favorite -- she transformed a 1920s Spanish home to house her gold and platinum baubles lined with Peruvian opals and Mandarin garnets. Perennial fashion favorite Marc Jacobs has three stores at 8400, 8409, and 8410 Melrose Ave., featuring ready-to-wear, accessories, menswear, and the less expensive Marc by Marc Jacobs collection.

A Very Beverly Hills Bookstore

If you're a connoisseur of small bookstores, you'll definitely want to pay a visit to the TASCHEN bookstore at 354 N. Beverly Dr., in Beverly Hills (tel. 310/274-4300; www.taschen.com). It's the German-based publishing house's first American store (the other two are in Cologne and Paris) and a fitting monument to the company's beautiful high-quality books. French designer célèbre Philippe Starck was commissioned to create the long, narrow store's dramatic interiors -- glossy walnut woods, shimmering bronze bookshelves, purple mirrors, and handmade glass walls. Befitting the world's leading art publisher, the artwork alone is worth the trip: Artist Albert Oehlen created 20 computer-generated collages for the walls and ceiling, inspired from the wide selection of TASCHEN's art, design, and erotic books. Prices range from a few dollars to several thousand for Helmut Newton's SUMO, the biggest and most expensive book produced in the 20th century. Truly, TASCHEN is unlike any other bookstore you've browsed. Open Monday through Saturday 10am to 7pm, Sunday noon to 5pm.

A Hollywood Production Worth Checking Out

Every Sunday from 8:30am to 1pm, the Hollywood Farmers Market takes place on Ivar Avenue between Hollywood and Sunset boulevards. Along with fresh California-grown produce and flowers, there's plenty of live entertainment, an artisan and crafts fair, and prepared foods from local restaurants. There's even free parking off Vine Street.