JiRaffe

The deafening din of conversation at this long-standing restaurant is usually praise for JiRaffe's artistic treatment of the purple Peruvian gnocchi appetizer, with rock shrimp, pearl onions and tomato nage -- a signature starter if ever there was one. Also popular are the pepper-crusted ahi tuna, crispy Scottish salmon, the flavorful filet of Prime beef, and caramelized pork chops with smoked bacon, apple chutney, and cider sauce. JiRaffe also wins culinary points for highlighting oft-ignored vegetables such as salsify, Swiss chard, and fennel, as well as complex appetizers that are more like miniature main dishes. I only wish the dishes would change more frequently, but it's been around so long now that there might be revolt. For dessert, say hello to a slice of warm chocolate truffle cake with vanilla bean ice cream and a cup of coffee. Tip: The Monday night bistro menu is a terrific bargain, and they don't dumb-down the food either. It offers three courses for $38.

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