The Lobster

A seafood shack called the Lobster has been on the Santa Monica Pier since 1923 -- almost as long as the pier has been standing -- but this incarnation is a perpetually lively favorite. The contemporary decor can't compete with the floor-to-ceiling windows offering a million-dollar ocean view, but the space is comfortable. The food is better than it needs to be, given the location, but not quite what it once was. Although the namesake crustacean from Maine is a good choice -- get it grilled, steamed, poached -- other specialties range from pan-seared crab cakes to wild Columbia River King salmon. Creative appetizers include ahi carpaccio with tangy tobiko wasabi, or steamed mussels and Manila clams with apple-wood bacon. There are a few steaks for landlubbers, and there's a practiced bar dedicated to locals that serves lots of bloody marys garnished with jumbo shrimp. Tip: Request a table on the deck and enjoy the 180-degree panoramic view of the Pacific.

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