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Introduction to Los Cabos and Baja California

"Delfina Cordova, would you please come to the taquilla, you have a message waiting." Upon hearing the message over the loudspeaker, my young grandmother reluctantly left her prime seat at a Tijuana bullfight to go receive news that my great-grandfather, Delfino Cordova, had died of a heart attack after a raucous night on Avenida Revolución.

Fast-forward about 30 years. Two of Delfina's daughters, my aunts Francine and Carla, made their way to Hussong's Cantina to cap off their bike ride along the Pacific coast from Rosarito to Ensenada (in my mind they were still wearing their spandex bike suits, and their helmets sat next to their margaritas on the bar). A group of cute surfer dudes ambled up to join them. They got to talking -- probably about how the local beaches reminded them of Malibu before all the celebrities moved in -- and numbers were exchanged. Carla and her surfer dude, Bruce, got married a few years later.

Growing up in Southern California, this pair of family legends provided my image of Baja California, and I always knew I'd get my chance to explore the land where my aunt and uncle found love and my great-grandfather partied his heart out. It came in the summer of 2006 when I did my first travel story on Cabo San Lucas. Although worlds away from the dusty bullrings and dramatic scenery of Northern Baja, I was still able to experience the beauty of the landscape and the warmth of its people. In addition to going on a sunset cruise in the Sea of Cortez, and having an off-road adventure to La Candelaria, I discovered my favorite part of Baja -- the part I'll be telling my grandchildren about -- the hotels! From presidential suites designed for the mega-rich to homey casitas where the relationships between owners and guests go back for generations, Baja offers memorable hotel experiences.

Since my initial visit more than 3 years ago, I've had the good fortune of traveling the length of this fascinating peninsula and found surprises around every corner. Just when I thought I had seen it all, I made my first trip to Loreto, where a friend took me along the dusty, not-yet-paved road through the Sierra Gorda mountain range to the 300-year-old Mission San Javier. I was speechless upon viewing the majestic red cliffs and rambling arroyos that provided the scenery for the hour-long trip. I capped off my day with a solo kayak trip through a lagoon in Nópolo. Looking out across the Sea of Cortez, the lifeblood of Baja and home to thousands of marine species, I realized that I still have so much to learn about this fascinating peninsula. I know I'll be back, again and again, adding to the family legend.


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Pub Date: November 22, 2011

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