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In Depth

The entire country of Mexico stretches nearly 3,220km (1,996 miles) from east to west and more than 1,600km (992 miles) north to south. Only one-fifth the size of the United States, its territory includes trackless deserts in the north, dense jungles in the south, thousands of miles of lush seacoast and beaches along the Pacific and Caribbean, and the central highlands, crisscrossed by mountain ranges.

The Baja peninsula was once a part of mainland Mexico, and perhaps its physical separation has helped contribute to the sense of cultural separation from the rest of its homeland. Although no matter where you go in Mexico the sense of national pride runs deep, in Baja there is also a close sense of kinship with its neighbor to the north -- the U.S. state of California, which, of course, was once part of Mexico itself.

Today, many travelers to Baja claim this region feels more like an extension of Southern California than it does Mexico. This is especially true in the Los Cabos area, at the very tip of Baja, where a large and growing expatriate community of wealthy Americans and Canadians has taken up residence. There, English is as common as Spanish, and dollars are interchangeable with pesos. However, this isn't as prevalent in the mid- and northern parts of Baja, especially in the central rural areas.

Still, Baja has a cultural identity unique to itself. It has always been a rugged and often inhospitable land, and has been, through the years, as much a home to pirates, outlaws, and adventurers as to anyone. The ability to survive here has given rise to a sturdy soul in the inhabitants of this region, something that continues to be a source of pride.

No one knows much about the ancient inhabitants of the Baja peninsula other than that they left a remarkable collection of dramatic paintings on the walls of caves in central Baja's mountainous region. These mystical paintings of faceless human and animal forms, despite all that we now know, seem to defy interpretation. Although the date of these paintings, as well as their meaning, remains unclear, the art they left behind is a stunning expression of a rich and complex cosmological view.

There is also limited knowledge of the indigenous tribes who lived here at the time of the arrival of the Spanish explorers, but what is clear is that they were less than welcoming. The first known European ship to arrive to these shores was the Concepción in 1534, under sail by a group of mutineers who landed in La Paz. Natives killed the majority, and the few survivors brought back tales of caches of black pearls found on a rugged island. Hernán Cortez, who was leading the Spanish Crown's conquest of Mexico, organized further explorations, which ultimately ended in a similar fate. He finally succeeded in financing an expedition led by Captain Francisco de Ulloa that charted what is now known as the Sea of Cortez, establishing the fact that this was not an island but a peninsula.

For these reasons and more, Baja is an intriguing place. Most travelers to the area will be drawn to its cobalt-blue waters and desert landscapes, but for more adventurous souls, what will ultimately hold your attention is the vast and mysterious interior section of the peninsula and the strength of character it requires to survive and thrive there. This may no longer be the "no man's land" that once characterized it, yet Baja remains a rugged region (outside the resort areas), one that invites you to challenge yourself to test your personal limits.


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Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.


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Frommer's Los Cabos & Baja, 2nd Edition Frommer's Los Cabos & Baja, 2nd Edition

Author: Emily Hughey Quinn
Pub Date: October 22, 2007
Price: $17.99

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Home > Destinations > North America > Mexico > Los Cabos and Baja California > In Depth