Getting Around

By Car

It's quite possible to get around without a car in Baja -- especially in the tiny resort destinations -- but renting a car gives you the ability to set your own itinerary for exploration and follow your whims as opposed to those of taxi and bus drivers.

Although you'll drive on the right side of the road, observe similar speed limits (listed in kilometers per hour instead of miles per hour), and see road signs that mean the same thing as they do in the United States, you'll find driving in Mexico is nothing like driving at home.

Most Mexican roads are not up to U.S. standards of smoothness, hardness, width of curve, grade of hill, or safety markings. Driving at night is dangerous -- the roads are rarely lit; trucks, carts, pedestrians, and bicycles usually have no lights; and you can hit potholes, animals, rocks, dead ends, or uncrossable bridges without warning.

The spirited style of Mexican driving sometimes requires acute vision and reflexes. Be prepared for new customs, as when a truck driver flips on his left turn signal when there's not a crossroad for miles. He's probably telling you the road's clear ahead for you to pass. Flashing hazard lights on oncoming vehicles or the cars in front of you means there's something going on up ahead (animals in or near the road, a car accident, a slow-moving vehicle, etc.) and to proceed with caution. Another custom that's very important to respect is turning left. Never turn left by stopping in the middle of a highway with your left signal on. Instead, pull onto the right shoulder, wait for traffic to clear, and then proceed across the road.

Gasoline -- There's one government-owned brand of gas and one gasoline station name throughout the country -- Pemex (Petroleras Mexicanas). There are two types of gas in Mexico: magna, 87-octane unleaded gas, and premium 93 octane. In Mexico, fuel and oil are sold by the liter, which is slightly more than a quart (40 liters equals about 11 gal.). Many franchise Pemex stations have bathroom facilities and convenience stores -- a great improvement over the old ones.

It's common practice for an attendant to fill your tank for you. I've watched many gringos hop out of their car to avert a "scam" but, rest assured, locals rarely fill their own tank. If the attendant cleans your windshield, a small tip of 5 to 10 pesos (50¢-$1) is appropriate.

Important notes: No credit cards are currently accepted for gas purchases.

Breakdowns -- If your car breaks down on the road, help might already be on the way. Radio-equipped green repair trucks operated by uniformed English-speaking officers patrol major highways during daylight hours. These "Green Angels" perform minor repairs and adjustments free, but you pay for parts and materials.

Your best guide to repair shops in Baja is a friend who knows. However, the Yellow Pages can work in a pinch. For repairs, look under "Automóviles y Camiones: Talleres de Reparación y Servicio"; auto-parts stores are under "Refacciones y Accesorios para Automóviles." To find a mechanic on the road, ask a local (because Baja is so rough on cars, most locals know a mechanic) or look for a sign that says TALLER MECANICO.

Places called vulcanizadora or llantera repair flat tires, and it is common to find them open 24 hours a day on the most traveled highways.

Minor Accidents -- When possible, many Mexicans drive away from minor accidents or try to make an immediate settlement, to avoid involving the police. If the police arrive while the involved persons are still at the scene, everyone may be locked in jail until blame is assessed. In any case, you have to settle up immediately, which may take days. Foreigners who don't speak fluent Spanish are at a distinct disadvantage when trying to explain their version of the event. Three steps may help the foreigner who doesn't wish to do as the Mexicans do: If you were in your own car, notify your Mexican insurance company, whose job it is to intervene on your behalf. If you were in a rental car, notify the rental company immediately and ask how to contact the nearest adjuster. (You did buy insurance with the rental, right?) Finally, if all else fails, ask to contact the nearest Green Angel, who may be able to explain to officials that you are covered by insurance.

Car Rentals -- You'll get the best price if you reserve a car at least a week in advance in the United States, and, unless you're renting a jeep, all companies offer automatic cars rather than manual transmissions (stick shifts). U.S. car-rental firms include Advantage (tel. 800/777-5500 in the U.S. and Canada; www.advantagerentacar.com); Avis (tel. 800/331-1084 in the U.S. and Canada; www.avis.com), Budget (tel. 800/527-0700 in the U.S. and Canada; www.budget.com); Budget Baja, Baja's own service-oriented franchise with locations throughout Southern Baja (www.budgetbaja.com); Hertz (tel. 800/654-3131 in the U.S. and Canada; www.hertz.com); National (tel. 800/227-7368 in the U.S. and Canada; www.nationalcar.com); and Thrifty (tel. 800/367-2277 in the U.S. and Canada; www.thrifty.com), which often offers discounts for rentals in Mexico. For European travelers, Kemwel Holiday Auto (tel. 800/678-0678; www.kemwell.com) can arrange Mexican rentals, sometimes through other agencies, in Cabo San Lucas, La Paz, and Tijuana. Kemwel, Auto Europe (888/223-5555; www.autoeurope.com), and some local firms have offices in Mexico City and most other large Mexican cities. You'll find rental desks at airports, all major hotels, and many travel agencies.

Cars are easy to rent if you are 21 or over and have a major credit card, valid driver's license, and passport with you. Without a credit card, you must leave a cash deposit, usually a big one. One-way rentals are usually simple to arrange but more costly.

Navigating Baja -- This long-and-skinny peninsula is surprisingly easy to navigate. Highway 1, or Carretera Transpeninsular, is the highway linking all major destinations in Baja -- especially in Southern Baja. In Northern Baja, Highway 3 and Highway 5 are useful for getting around San Felipe, Tecate, and Ensenada; and Highway 19 takes you from Cabo San Lucas to Todos Santos in the South. Road signs are helpful and up-to-date throughout the peninsula, making it easy -- if you stay on the highways -- not to get lost on the many dirt roads that snake through the desert. You may encounter a military checkpoint or two if you're traveling any great lengths in Baja. Although it looks threatening (read: the checkpoints are staffed with stern 16-year-olds holding M-16s), military checkpoints are standard procedure, so let the uniformed soldiers inspect your car for drugs or agricultural products if requested, and then be on your merry way.

Be prepared for border-crossing delays of at least 45 minutes when you're heading back into the United States, and avoid crossing on a Friday afternoon, as the lines are longer then.

If you're not up to driving from destination to destination, Aereo Calafia (tel. 624/143-4302; www.aereocalafia.com.mx) offers flights between Cabo San Lucas, La Paz, and Loreto.

By Taxi

Taxis are the preferred way to get around in almost all the resort areas of Mexico, with the exception of Los Cabos, which is fairly spread out, and taxis are very expensive. One-way travel between Cabo San Lucas and San José del Cabo averages $40. Short trips within towns are generally charged by preset zones and are quite reasonable compared with U.S. rates. For longer trips or excursions to nearby cities, taxis can generally be hired for around $10 to $15 per hour, or for a negotiated daily rate, but it's better to find a tour operator who can offer the same price, plus a guide, water, and sometimes a meal or snack. Even drops to different destinations can be arranged. A negotiated one-way price may be much less than the cost of a rental car for a day, and service is much faster than travel by bus. For anyone who is uncomfortable driving in Mexico, this is a convenient, comfortable alternative. A bonus is that you have a Spanish-speaking person with you in case you run into any car or road trouble. Many taxi drivers speak at least some English. Your hotel can assist you with the arrangements.

By Train

Train travel is mostly unavailable in Baja, save for a rail excursion that leaves Saturday mornings and evenings from San Diego to Tecate, where brewery tours, lunch on your own, and exploration await. Organized by the Pacific Southwest Railway Museum, tickets cost $43 for adults and $23 for kids, and may be booked at tel. 619/478-9937 or www.sdrm.org. Dates fill up quickly, so book in advance.

By Bus

Bus service is not as well developed in the Baja peninsula as in other parts of the country, although it is available between principal points. Travel class is generally labeled segunda (second), primera (first), and ejecutiva (deluxe). The deluxe buses often have fewer seats than regular buses, show movies en route, are air-conditioned, have bathrooms, and make few stops; some have complimentary refreshments. Many run express from origin to the final destination. They are well worth the few dollars more that you'll pay. In rural areas, buses are often of the school-bus variety, with lots of local color.

See Baja by Boat: Cruising the Sea of Cortez

John Steinbeck made this journey famous, recording his observations and philosophies on a 2,500km (4,000-mile) expedition during which he collected marine specimens in the 1951 classic The Log from the Sea of Cortez. These days, a few companies offer small-ship cruises that leave from Los Cabos, La Paz, or Loreto and cruise around the Gulf of California for several days, an ideal way to sample the best of Baja. Any travel agent can price or book Sea of Cortez cruises.

Some of my favorite cruises can be found through Lindblad Expeditions (tel. 800/397-3348 in the U.S.; www.expeditions.com) and Cruise West (tel. 800/888-9378 or 206/441-8687 in the U.S.; fax 206/441-4757; www.cruisewest.com). Both offer multiple voyages that explore the interior Baja coast. Lindblad offers 8- to 14-day trips that explore the migrating whales and the relationship between the desert and the sea. Along the way, the ships pull into small, pristine coves where passengers can participate in nature walks, hiking, snorkeling, diving, and kayaking. Both companies include expert guides that bring together history, science, storytelling, and experience for cruisers. Small ships allow for easy maneuverability and an intimate experience; and they have all the trimmings of a luxury cruise. Prices for both Cruise West and Lindblad expeditions range from $3,490 to $7,430 per person (based on double occupancy) for a 7- to 14-day cruise; all meals and activities are included. Cruise West is oriented toward a slightly older passenger and Lindblad Expeditions caters to everyone: singles, families, and seniors. In both, there's an exceptional educational orientation aimed at learning about the areas explored, especially the regional flora and fauna. Photography-themed cruises also are available on both.