The North Coast

Northern Baja in 6 Days

This trip takes you to Mexico's most infamous town, Tijuana, and then down the coast to sample more authentic Baja. The early part of this journey takes in a few kitschy sites -- consider it a sampling of the singular Mexican vision of magic realism -- then on to some lovely places that will give you an appreciation of the natural beauty and range of experiences available here. The area that this itinerary covers is relatively compact, not requiring a lot of travel time, but you should cater the trip to suit your needs, spending more time in the places you like best. For example, not listed is the magical San Felipe, which is a 6-hour drive from San Diego. Depending on your mission, the laid-back nature of this town may inspire you to speed through the rest of Northern Baja in lieu of spending a long weekend drenched in sun and sand, peace and quiet, and fish tacos and cerveza. The choice is yours.

Day 1: Arrive in Tijuana

Although most people equate Tijuana with Avenida Revolución, there is truly a wealth of places to visit here, which you can choose between depending upon your preferences -- the Centro Cultural Tijuana, watching a bullfight, and shopping are a few of the favored activities. If you're traveling with children, a visit to the Mundo Divertido La Mesa amusement center will be highly appreciated. I recommend a stop at the Museo de Cera (Wax Museum) or a generous sampling of Baja's wines at the Cava de Vinos L.A. Cetto (L.A. Cetto Winery). Your evening here should be dedicated to taking in the color and revelry of Avenida Revolución so you can truly say you've been to Tijuana.

Day 2: Rosarito Beach

Drive just 20 minutes (29km/18 miles) south of Tijuana and you'll find a complete departure in ambience as you start to relax into the beauty of this area. The drive itself on a wide, modern coastal highway is lovely. Stop for a break at the Rosarito Beach Hotel, which attracted scores of celebrities and other notables during the later days of Prohibition. Then continue on a few miles south of Rosarito proper to Fox Studios' Foxploration!, a cinema-themed museum and entertainment center. You can lose yourself for hours in the interactive exhibits, but the main event remains the Titanic Expo. When you're finished, head back to Rosarito Beach for the evening, where enjoying a sunset cerveza at Papas & Beer on the beach is de rigueur.

Days 3 & 4: Exploring Ensenada

Driving south from Rosarito, choose the toll road for efficiency or the local-access road that parallels it for more local color as you head south toward Ensenada. Don't miss a stop in Puerto Nuevo for a sampling of the local lobster. After passing the La Fonda resort, be sure to get back on the toll road, because the old road veers inland. Eighteen kilometers (11 miles) from here, stop off at El Mirador to admire the dramatic coastal views, and if you dare to look straight down, take a gander at the collection of cars that lie on the rocks at the bottom. A few miles beyond the lookout point is Salsipuedes Bay, and 24km (15 miles) beyond this you'll arrive in Ensenada. If you arrive early enough, spend the afternoon exploring this classic town so the next day can be free for fishing, kayaking, surfing, or a visit to either of the two national parks, the Parque Nacional Constitución de 1857 or the Parque Nacional Sierra San Pedro Mártir. At some point, you'll want to be sure to visit the La Bufadora sea spout. For an unforgettable meal in Ensenada, dine at La Embotelladora Vieja at the Bodegas de Santo Tomás Winery -- it will prepare you for what's on the agenda for the next day. For a more casual good time, you have your choice of Hussong's Cantina or the Ensenada location of Papas & Beer, both institutions of the partying crowd.

Day 5: Valle de Guadalupe (Mexico's Wine Country)

With 1 day to spend here, you'll only get a small (but sufficient) survey of Mexico's wine country. I'd start with a visit to the Museo Comunitario del Valle de Guadalupe and the Museo Histórico Comunitario, just across the street, to gain an appreciation of the odd history of this region. They're both quite small, so this won't take much time. Then choose two to three vineyards to visit to partake in wine tastings. My preferred wineries are the boutique Monte Xanic, Chateau Camou, and Mogor Badan, but you may enjoy visiting one of the larger establishments at L.A. Cetto or Domecq. Highly recommended is a stop for lunch (reservations recommended) at Laja. Just driving through this exquisite and easily navigable valley is a pleasure. I would also recommend staying the evening here, at La Villa del Valle.

Day 6: Bajamar & Return to Tijuana

On your way back up the coast, stop in at either Bajamar (32km/20 miles north of Ensenada) or Real del Mar (16km/10 miles south of Tijuana) to play a round of golf or relax with a spa treatment. You may choose to spend your last night at either of these places, which offer "Americanized" accommodations. Alternatively, head back to Tijuana for one final evening of its seductive charms. And, if you bypassed the Puerto Nuevo lobsters on the way down the coast, don't miss them on the return trip.