Nightlife

This cosmopolitan hub offers many entertainment and culture options. At any newsstand, pick up a copy of the weekly guide Lyon-Poche, which lists happenings and venues around town, from bars to classical concerts.

For the theater or opera buff, Lyon's Théâtre des Célestins, place Célestins (tel. 04-72-77-40-00), is the premier venue for comedy and drama; and the Opéra, place de la Comédie (tel. 08-26-30-53-25), always has a lively and diverse season. Halle Tony Garnier, 20 place Antonin Perrin (tel. 04-72-76-85-85), originated as a 19th-century food market. The immense space with excellent acoustics is known for concerts, trade fairs, and temporary art exhibitions.

The best pub in town is the Smoking Dog, 16 rue Lainerie (tel. 04-78-28-38-27), a happy neighborhood bar with a mixed-age crowd.

The best of the cargo boats parked on the Rhône is Le Sirius, Berges du Rhône, 21 quai Augagneur (tel. 04-78-71-78-71; www.lesirius.com; Métro: Buillotière). A hot crowd under 35 packs the ship for dancing to the sounds of Lyon's best DJs on the lower-level floor. There's also an outdoor deck for fair weather. Sometimes big musical acts are booked in here, at which time various cover charges (depending on the act) will be imposed. It's open Tuesday through Saturday from 6pm to 3am. Check out Le Box-Office, 30 bd. Eugène-Deruelle (tel. 04-78-60-28-13-93), with its brash techno crew. The cover ranges from 14€ to 16€.

As you may have expected in a city the size of Lyon, there are a scattering of busy and popular gay bars. Popular spots for men include La Ruche, 22 rue Gentil, 2e (tel. 04-78-37-42-26; Métro: Cordelier), and Le Forum, 15 rue des Quatres Chapeaux, 2e (tel. 04-78-37-19-74; Métro: Cordelier), located in the city's historic core. Gay men and lots of lesbian women tend to gravitate toward Bar Le Marais, 4 rue Thomassin, 2e (tel. 04-78-92-80-89; Métro: Cordelier).