The third-largest city in France offers an array of retail outlets. For boutiques, art galleries, and artists' studios, head to Vieux Lyon and the area around rue de la République, rue Victor Hugo, rue Mercière, and quai St-Antoine. Antiques dealers concentrate around rue Auguste-Comte as it approaches place Bellecour. Also consider venturing to the Cité des Antiquaires, 117 bd. Stalingrad (tel. 04-72-69-00-00), with more than 100 dealers spread over two floors, and merchandise from the 18th century to the 1950s. It's open Thursday, Saturday, and Sunday 10am to 7pm; June and August Sunday hours are 9:30am to 1pm.
Lyon is a bastion of fashion. The densest concentrations of retail shops are along rue Emile Zola, rue de Président-Herriot, and place Kléber. For chic women's couture that rivals anything you'll find in Paris, try George Rech, 59 rue du Président-Herriot (tel. 04-78-37-82-90). More than 300 shops and boutiques fill the largest shopping center in Lyon, the Centre Commercial de la Part-Dieu, 17 rue du Dr. Bouchut (tel. 04-72-60-60-60). Although Lyon is not the major silk center that it used to be, it is home to several silk manufacturers. You'll see a good selection of silk scarves, ties, sashes, and squares at Hermès, 96 rue du Président-Herriot (tel. 04-78-42-25-14).
Bernachon, 42 cours Franklin-Roosevelt (tel. 04-78-24-37-98), is home to Lyon's best chocolates and pastries. Here you'll find 30 varieties of bite-size pastries known as mini-gâteaux, 30 varieties of petits fours, and even dark, rich chocolates lightly dusted with 24-karat gold. The Bernachon store houses a small restaurant and tearoom, Bernachon Passion (tel. 04-78-52-23-65).