Macau comprises a small peninsula and Taipa and Colôane, two former islands that are now merged due to a massive land reclamation called COTAI and are linked to the mainland by bridges. The peninsula -- referred to as Macau -- is where you'll find the city of Macau, as well as the ferry terminal and most of its hotels, shops, and attractions. The ferry terminal is located on what is called the Outer Harbour, which faces Taipa and connects to the South China Sea. On the opposite side of the Peninsula is the Inner Harbour, which faces China. Although I used to love the Outer Harbour for its dreamy view of boats plying the Pearl River waterway and the tree-shaded Avenida da República, which ran along the waterfront, land reclamation, including new highways, high-rises, the Macau Tower, and Fisherman's Wharf, has rendered the Outer Harbour a horror zone. I'd advise fleeing this side of the peninsula as hastily as possible for downtown and the more colorful Inner Harbour. Walking along the Inner Harbour from Avenida Almeida Ribeiro to the Maritime Museum, you will see an unchanged Macau, with decaying buildings, small family businesses, street-side barbers, and, occasionally, fish laid out on sidewalks to dry. In the evening, however, you may want to return to the Outer Harbour, where Macau's nightlife district, called The Docks, spreads along the waterfront near the Statue of Kun Iam. Fisherman's Wharf, with its restaurants, shops, and other diversions, is also well worth a stroll.
Near the middle of the peninsula is Guia Hill, the highest natural point of Macau. Because of its strategic location, a fort was constructed atop the hill in the 1630s, followed in 1865 by a lighthouse, the first of its kind on the China coast. Also on the grounds of Guia Fort are a small chapel and a tourist information counter (open daily 9am-1pm and 2:15-5:30pm). A jogging path, complete with exercise stations, circles the top of the hill. Although there's not much to do on Guia Hill, it does provide a good overview of Macau. You can reach it by taking bus no. 9 to Flora Garden and then boarding what must be the world's shortest ropeway to the top of the hill.
Connecting the two harbors is Macau's main road, Avenida Almeida Ribeiro, remarkably with only one traffic light despite nightmarish traffic. About halfway down its length is the attractive Senado Square, Macau's main plaza. Lined with colonial-style buildings painted in hues of yellows and pinks, it is paved in a wave pattern of colored mosaic tiles, which lead from the square to the ruins of St. Paul's Church crowning the crest of a hill and to side streets good for shopping. On the other side of the square is Leal Senado, Macau's most outstanding example of Portuguese colonial architecture. Radiating from Avenida Almeida Ribeiro in all directions is old Macau, a fascinating warren of narrow streets, street markets, open-fronted family shops, and a cacophony of sounds, sights, and smells.
Taipa, closest to the mainland and connected by three bridges, has witnessed a construction boom over the past decades, with the addition of high-rise apartments and Macau's airport. In its midst is the picturesque Taipa Village with its many restaurants. Connected to Taipa by reclaimed land (called COTAI) is Colôane, largely undeveloped and the site of Macau's best beaches. Although Taipa and Colôane are still referred to as individual islands, in reality COTAI is so extensive (5.2 sq. km/more than 2 sq. miles) that the two are now just one fused island. COTAI is being developed as a resort and entertainment destination, with the Venetian Macao-Resort-Hotel as the biggest player. Once completed, which is still several years down the road, COTAI will boast more than a half-dozen resorts, convention space, a new ferry terminal, a bridge linking it to mainland China, and a light rail that will whisk visitors to downtown Macau.
