The Spotted Cow

Set on the ground floor of a small, rustic retail complex in Waitsfield, the Cow is a low-ceilinged, modern, natural-wood spot with cherry banquettes and windows facing out onto a walkway. The place has the cozy feel of a bistro that only locals know about, with a more cultivated than funky air. The kitchen succeeds with creative approaches to old favorites; venison is almost always on the menu, as is fresh fish. The duck and lamb cassoulet, if it's on the menu, is a good choice, as is fish chowder made with a splash of rum. A vegetarian special is usually available, too.

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