Getting Around

The modernization of Malaysia has made travel here -- whether it's by plane, train, bus, taxi, or self-driven car -- easier and more convenient than ever. Malaysia Airlines has service to every major destination within the peninsula and East Malaysia, and now budget carrier AirAsia connects all major towns for cheap. Buses have a massive web of routes between every city and town. Train service up the western coast and out to the east provides even more options. And a unique travel offering -- the outstation taxi -- is available to and from every city on the peninsula. All the options make it convenient enough for you to plan to hop from city to city and not waste too much precious vacation time.

By and large, all the modes of transportation between cities are reasonably comfortable. Air travel can be the most costly of the alternatives, followed by outstation taxis, then buses and trains.

By Plane

Malaysia Airlines (tel. 1300/883-000; www.malaysiaairlines.com) links from its hub in Kuala Lumpur to the cities of Johor Bahru, Kota Bharu, Kota Kinabalu, Kuala Terengganu, Kuantan, Kuching, Langkawi, Penang, and other smaller cities not covered in this volume. Malaysian Airline's national hot line (tel. 1300/883-000) can be dialed from anywhere in the country. Individual airport information is provided in sections for each city that follows. One-way domestic fares can average RM100 to RM400 ($28-$112/£14-£56).

AirAsia, a new budget airline, competes with Malaysia Airlines with incredibly affordable rates. It links all the country's major cities with fares that on average run from RM40 and up ($11/£5.60) -- seriously. Call their KL office at tel. 03/8775-4000, or visit their website at www.airasia.com.

Berjaya Air (tel. 03/2145-2828; www.berjaya-air.com) operates a small fleet of aircraft that services the peninsula's island resorts, with flights that link KL to Pangkor, Langkawi, Tioman, and Redang islands, with another flight between Singapore and Tioman.

By Train

The Keretapi Tanah Melayu Berhad (KTM) provides train service throughout peninsular Malaysia. Trains run from north to south between the Thai border and Singapore, with stops between including Butterworth (Penang), Kuala Lumpur, and Johor Bahru. There is a second line that branches off at Gemas, midway between Johor Bahru and KL, and heads northeast to Tempas near Kota Bharu. Fares range from RM64 ($18/£8.95) for first-class between Johor Bahru and KL, to RM85 ($24/£12) for first-class passage between Johor Bahru and Butterworth. Train station information is provided for each city under individual city headings in the following chapters.

By Bus

Malaysia's intercity coach system is extensive and inexpensive, but I don't really recommend it. With the exception of executive coach services between KL and Singapore, which are excellent, standard coaches get dirtier and dirtier each year, maintenance issues are a question mark, and road safety is a roll of the dice. Still, if you must, for each city covered, I've listed bus terminal locations, but scheduling information must be obtained from the bus company itself.

By Taxi

You can take special hired cars, called outstation taxis, between every city and state on the peninsula. Rates depend on the distance you plan to travel. They are fixed and stated at the beginning of the trip but many times can be bargained down. In Kuala Lumpur, go to the second level of the Puduraya Bus Terminal to find cabs that will take you outside the city or call the Kuala Lumpur Outstation Taxi Service Station (tel. 03/2078-0213). A taxi from KL to Malacca will cost you approximately RM140 ($39/£20), KL to Cameron Highlands RM220 ($62/£31), KL to Butterworth or Johor Bahru RM300 ($84/£42). Outstation taxi stand locations are included under each individual city heading in the following chapters. These cars are usually basic older-model sedans.

Also, within each of the smaller cities, feel free to negotiate with unmetered taxis for hourly, half-day, or daily rates. It's an excellent way to get around for sightseeing and shopping without transportation hassles. Hourly rates are anywhere from RM15 to RM25 ($4.20-$7/£2.10-£3.50).

By Car

The cities along the west coast of the peninsula are linked by the North-South Highway. There are rest areas with toilets, food outlets, and emergency telephones at intervals along the way. There is also a toll that varies depending on the distance you're traveling.

Driving along the east coast of Malaysia is actually much more pleasant than driving along the west coast. The highway is narrower and older, but it takes you through oil palm and rubber plantations, and the essence of kampung Malaysia permeates throughout. As you near villages you'll often have to slow down and swerve past cows and goats, which are really quite oblivious to oncoming traffic. You have to get very close to honk at them before they move.

The speed limit on highways is 110kmph (68 mph). On the minor highways the limit ranges from 70 to 90kmph (43-56 mph). Do not speed, as there are traffic police strategically situated around certain bends.

Distances between major towns are: from KL to Johor Bahru, 368km (221 miles); from KL to Malacca, 144km (86 miles); from KL to Kuantan, 259km (155 miles); from KL to Butterworth, 369km (221 miles); from Johor Bahru to Malacca, 224km (134 miles); from Johor Bahru to Kuantan, 325km (195 miles); from Johor Bahru to Mersing, 134km (80 miles); from Johor Bahru to Butterworth, 737km (442 miles).

To rent a car in Malaysia, you must produce a driver's license from your home country that shows you have been driving at least 2 years. There are desks for major car-rental services at the international airports in Kuala Lumpur and Penang, and additional outlets throughout the country.