En Route to Dominical: Playa Matapalo
Playa Matapalo is a long expanse of flat beach that's about midway between Quepos and Dominical. It's an easy but bumpy 26km (16 miles) south of Quepos on the Costanera Sur. It's nowhere near as developed as either of those two beaches, but that's part of its charm. The beach here seems to stretch on forever, and it's usually deserted. The surf and strong riptides frequently make Matapalo too rough for swimming, although surfing and boogie-boarding can be good. Foremost among this beach's charms are peace and quiet.
Where to Stay -- Matapalo is basically a little village; the beach is about 1km (1/2 mile) away. A few very small and intimate lodges are right on the beach. One of the more interesting is Bahari Beach Bungalows (tel. 787-5014; www.baharibeach.com), which offers deluxe tents, with private bathrooms, and more standard rooms, right on the beach. If you're looking for a longer stay, check out Jungle House (tel./fax 787-5005; www.junglehouse.com), which has a variety of private houses and bungalows for rent.