Active Pursuits

Beaches Outside the Park -- Playa Espadilla, the gray-sand beach just outside the park boundary, is often perfect for board surfing and bodysurfing. At times it's a bit rough for casual swimming, but with no entrance fee, it's the most popular beach with locals and visiting Ticos. Some shops by the water rent boogie boards and beach chairs and umbrellas. A full-day rental of a beach umbrella and two chaise longues costs around $10 (£5). (These are not available inside the park.) This beach is actually a great spot to learn how to surf, because there are several open-air shops renting surfboards and boogie boards along the road fronting the beach. Rates run between $5 and $10 (£2.50-£5) per hour, and around $30 to $40 (£15-£20) per day. If you want a lesson, check in with the Manuel Antonio Surf School (tel. 2777-4842; www.masurfschool.com), which has a roadside kiosk on the road to Manuel Antonio.

Boating, Kayaking, Rafting & Fishing Tours

Adventure Manuel Antonio (tel. 2777-1084; www.adventuremanuelantonio.com) and Iguana Tours (tel. 2777-2052; www.iguanatours.com) are the most established and dependable tour operators in the area; both offer river rafting, sea kayaking, mangrove tours, and guided hikes.

The two above companies, as well as Rios Tropicales (tel. 2777-4092; www.aventurash2o.com), offer full-day rafting trips for around $85 to $110 (£43-£55). Large multiperson rafts are used during the rainy season, and single-person "duckies" are broken out when the water levels drop. All of the above companies also offer half-day rafting adventures and sea-kayaking trips for around $65 (£33). Depending on rainfall and demand, they will run either the Naranjo or Savegre rivers. I very much prefer the Savegre River for its stunning scenery.

Another of my favorite tours in the area is a mangrove tour of the Damas Island estuary. These trips generally include lunch, a stop on Damas Island, and roughly 3 to 4 hours of cruising the waterways. You'll see loads of wildlife. The cost is usually around $60 to $70 (£30-£35).

Among the other boating options around Quepos/Manuel Antonio are excursions in search of dolphins and sunset cruises. Iguana Tours and Planet Dolphin (tel./fax 2777-1647; www.planetdolphin.com) offer these tours for $40 to $80 (£20-£40) per person, depending upon the size of the group and the length of the cruise. Most tours include a snorkel break and, if lucky, dolphin sightings. Jungle Coast Jets (tel. 2777-1706; www.junglecoastjets.com) offers 2-hour jet-ski tours for $129 (£65) per person. This tour plies the same waters and includes some snorkeling and the possibility of a dolphin encounter.

Quepos is one of Costa Rica's billfish centers, and sailfish, marlin, and tuna are all common in these waters. In the past year or so, fresh and brackish water fishing in the mangroves and estuaries has also become popular. If you're into sportfishing, try hooking up with Blue Fin Sportfishing (tel. 2777-0000; www.bluefinsportfishing.com), Blue Water (tel. 800/807-1585 in the U.S. and Canada or 2777-4841; www.sportfishingincostarica.com), High Tec Sportfishing (tel. 2777-3465; www.hightecsportfishing.com), or Luna Tours Sportfishing (tel. 2777-0725; www.lunatours.net). A full day of fishing should cost between $400 and $1,800 (£200-£900), depending on the size of the boat, distance traveled, tackle provided, and amenities. There's a lot of competition here, so shop around.

Scuba Diving & Snorkeling

Manuel Antonio Scuba Divers (tel. 2777-3483; www.manuelantoniodivers.com) and Oceans Unlimited (tel. 2777-3171; www.oceansunlimitedcr.com) offer both scuba diving and snorkel outings, as well as certification and resort courses. Because of river run-off and often less-than-stellar visibility close to Quepos, the best trips involve some travel time. However, Isla del Caño is only about a 90-minute ride (each way). This is one of the best dive sites in Costa Rica, and I highly recommend it.

ATV

If you want to try riding a four-wheel ATV (all-terrain vehicle), check in with the folks at Fourtrax Adventures (tel. 2777-1829; www.fourtraxadventure.com). Their principal tour is a 3-hour adventure through African palm plantations, rural towns, and secondary forest to a jungle waterfall, where you stop for a dip. You cross several rivers and a long suspension bridge. Either breakfast or lunch is served, depending on the timing. Cost is $95 (£48) per ATV. A second rider on the same ATV costs $30 (£15).

Biking

If you want to do some mountain biking while you're here, check in with Estrella Tour (tel./fax 2777-1286) in downtown Quepos. Well-maintained bikes rent for around $25 (£13) per day. You can also do a number of different guided tours according to skill level for between $45 and $100 (£23-£50) per day, as well as multiday expeditions.

Canopy Adventures

There are several canopy tours in the area. The most adventurous is offered by Canopy Safari (tel. 2777-0100; www.canopysafari.com), which features 21 treetop platforms connected by a series of cables and suspension bridges. Adventurers use a harness-and-pulley system to "zip" between platforms, using a leather-gloved hand as their only brake. The Titi Canopy Tour (tel. 2777-3130; www.titicanopytours.com) is a similar but mellower setup. A canopy tour should run you between $50 and $70 (£25-£35) per person.

About 20 minutes outside of Quepos is Rainmaker Nature Refuge (tel. 2777-3565; www.rainmakercostarica.org). The main attraction here is a system of connected suspension bridges strung through the forest canopy, crisscrossing a deep ravine. There are six bridges; the longest is 90m (295 ft.) across. There's also a small network of trails and some great swimming holes. A half-day tour, including a light breakfast, full lunch, round-trip transportation from Quepos, and a guide, costs $70 (£35) per person. Tours leave every morning, and most hotels in the area can book them for you.

Horseback Riding

If your tropical fantasy is to ride a horse down a beach between jungle and ocean, contact Stable Equus (tel. 2777-0001), which charges $35 (£18) for a 2-hour ride in Manuel Antonio. This stable treats its animals more humanely than other stables in the immediate Manuel Antonio area and is also concerned with keeping horse droppings off the beaches. Back in the hills, Brisas del Nara (tel. 2779-1235; www.horsebacktour.com) offers full- and half-day horseback excursions that pass through both primary and secondary forest and feature a swimming stop at a jungle waterfall. A full-day tour with these folks, including breakfast and lunch, costs $65 (£33) per person; and $50 (£25) for a similar half-day tour, with less time on the horse.

Soothe Your Body & Soul

There are quite a few massage therapists around Manuel Antonio and a couple of day spas. The best of these are Raindrop Spa (tel. 2777-2880; www.raindropspa.com), Spa Uno (tel. 2777-2607; www.spauno.com), and Serenity Spa at the Hotel Sí Como No. A wide range of treatments, wraps, and facials are available at all of the above.

Sivana Yoga (tel. 2777-5268; www.sivanayoga.com) has open classes ($12/£6) Monday through Friday at 8am above the Anaconda restaurant, across from the Hotel Costa Verde. Private classes are also offered.

Ultralight Tour

If you want a really good view of Manuel Antonio's spectacular scenery, you might sign up with the folks at Costa Rica Flying Boat (tel. 2777-9208; www.flyingboatcostarica.com), who offer ultralight flights out of the Quepos airport. A 20-minute flight runs around $75 (£36).