Activities in Manzanillo revolve around its golden sand beaches, which frequently accumulate a film of black mineral residue from nearby rivers. Most of the resort hotels are completely self-contained. Manzanillo's public beaches provide an opportunity to see more local color and scenery. They are the daytime playground for those staying at places off the beach or without pools.
Beaches -- Playa Audiencia, on the Santiago Peninsula, offers the best swimming as well as snorkeling, but Playa San Pedrito, shallow for a long way out, is the most popular beach for its proximity to downtown. Playa Las Brisas, located south of Santiago Peninsula as you're heading to downtown Manzanillo, offers an optimal combination of location and good swimming. Playa Miramar, on the Bahía de Santiago past the Santiago Peninsula, is popular with bodysurfers, windsurfers, and boogie boarders. It's accessible by local bus from town. The major part of Playa Azul, also south of the Santiago Peninsula, drops off sharply but is noted for its wide stretch of golden sand.
Birding -- Several lagoons along the coast offer good birding. As you go from Manzanillo past Las Brisas to Santiago, you'll pass Laguna de Las Garzas (Lagoon of the Herons), also known as Laguna de San Pedrito, where you can see many white pelicans and huge herons fishing in the water. They nest here in December and January. Directly behind downtown is the Laguna de Cuyutlán (follow the signs to Cuyutlán), where you'll usually find birds in abundance; species vary between summer and winter.
Diving -- Underworld Scuba (tel./fax 314/333-3678; cell 314/358-0327; www.gomanzanillo.com), owned by longtime resident and local diving expert Susan Dearing, conducts highly professional diving expeditions and classes. Susan's warm enthusiasm and intimate knowledge of the area make this one of my top recommendations for dive outfitters in Mexico. Many locations are so close to shore that there's no need for a boat. Close-in dives include the jetty with coral growing on the rocks at 14m (46 ft.) and a nearby sunken frigate downed in 1959 at 8m (26 ft.). Divers can see abundant sea life, including coral reefs, seahorses, giant puffer fish, and moray eels. A dive requiring a boat costs $60 (£33) per person for one tank (with a three-person minimum) or $80 (£44) for two tanks ($10/£5.50 discount if you have your own equipment). You can also rent weights and a tank for beach dives for $10 (£5.50). A three-stop snorkel trip costs $45 (£25). All guides are certified divemasters, and the shop offers certification classes (PADI, YMCA, and CMAS) in very intensive courses of various durations. The owner offers a 10% discount on your certification when you mention Frommer's. MasterCard and Visa are accepted.
Fishing -- Manzanillo is famous for its fishing, particularly sailfish. Marlin and sailfish are abundant year-round. Winter is best for dolphin fish and dorado (mahimahi); in summer, wahoo and rooster fish are in greater supply. The international sailfish competition is held around the November 20 Revolution Day holiday, and the national sailfish competition is in February. You can arrange fishing through travel agencies or directly at the fishermen's cooperative (tel. 314/332-1031), located downtown where the fishing boats moor. Call from 6am to 2pm or 5 to 8pm. A fishing boat is approximately $40 (£22) for 8 people to $50 (£28) for 12 people per hour, with most trips lasting about 5 hours.
Golf -- The 18-hole La Mantarraya Golf Course (tel. 314/331-0101) is open to nonguests as well as guests of Las Hadas. At one time, La Mantarraya was among the top 100 courses in the world, but newer entries have passed it. Still, the compact, challenging 18-hole course designed by Roy and Pete Dye is a beauty, with banana trees, blooming bougainvillea, and coconut palms at every turn. A lush and verdant place (12 of the 18 holes are played over water), it remains a favorite.
When the course was under construction, workers dug up pre-Hispanic ceramic figurines, idols, and beads where the 14th hole now lies. It is believed to have been an important ancient burial site. The course culminates with its signature 18th hole, with a drive to the island green off El Tesoro (the treasure) beach, directly in front of the Karminda Palace Resort. Local lore says this beach still may hold buried treasure from Spanish galleons, whose crews were the first to recognize the perfection of this natural harbor, and who used it during the 16th century as their starting point for voyages to the Pacific Rim. Greens fees are $150 (£83) for 18 holes, $90 (£50) for 9 holes; cart rental costs $50 (£28) for 18 holes and $30 (£17) for 9 holes.
The fabulous Isla Navidad Country Club 27-hole golf course associated with the Grand Bay Hotel (tel. 314/337-9024) in Barra de Navidad, an easy distance from Manzanillo, is also open to the public. The Robert von Hagge design is long and lovely, with each hole amid rolling, tropical landscapes. It is wide open, with big fairways and big greens, and features plenty of water (2 lagoon holes, 13 lakeside holes, and 8 holes along the Pacific). The greens fees, including a motorized cart, are $166 (£91) for 18 holes, $192 (£106) for 27 holes for hotel guests; it's $207 and $230 (£114 and £127), respectively, for nonguests. Barra is about a 1- to 1 1/2-hour drive north of Manzanillo on Highway 200.
