Attractions

Both lighthouses still operate (automatically) and are open to the public. Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse (tel. 08/9755 3955) is 13km outside Dunsborough set among wildflower-rich bushland, and surrounded by a variety of walk trails. It's a great spot for whale-watching in season. The entry fee, A$11 (US$10/£5) adults, A$5.50 (US$5/£2.50) children, A$30 (US$27/£14) families of two adults and two kids, also includes a tour. Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse (tel. 08/9758 1920), just south of Augusta, stands proudly where two oceans meet. It's the tallest lighthouse on mainland Australia. Guided tours run throughout the day, and the price includes the precinct entry fee -- A$12 (US$11/£5.50) adults, A$7 (US$6.30/£3.15). It's open daily 8:45am to 5pm.

Six of the Southwest's 350 or so limestone caves are open to the public. Some contain elaborate formations and have lighting, stairs, and boardwalks to help you along the way. Stop at CaveWorks's eco-interpretive center, Lake Cave, Caves Road (tel. 08/9757 7411), before or after you visit the caves. It's open daily, except December 25, from 9am to 5pm. Entry is free if you tour Lake, Jewel, or Mammoth caves, otherwise it's A$2 (US$1.80/UK90p) per person.

Lake Cave, outside CaveWorks and 300 steps down an ancient sinkhole, contains a tranquil pond that reflects the exquisite formations. Four kilometers (2 1/2 miles) north along Caves Road is Mammoth Cave, where you can see the fossilized jaw of an extinct giant wombat. Jewel Cave, 8km (5 miles) north of Augusta on Caves Road, is the prettiest. Tours of Lake and Jewel, and self-guided tours of Mammoth (using an mp3 system), each cost A$19 (US$17/£8.50) for adults, A$9.50 (US$8.50/£4.25) for children 4 to 16, A$50 (US$45/£23) for families of four. A Grand Tour Pass to all three plus CaveWorks saves you a little money. Mammoth is open from 9am to 6pm (last tour at 54pm); tours of Lake and Jewel run hourly from 9:30am to 3:30pm. The caves are open every day except December 25. Booking is not required.

Calgardup and Giants caves, run by the Department of Environment and Conservation, are more challenging. The caves are not electrically lit, and there are no guides, but there are elevated boardwalks and marked paths. Visitors receive helmets, lamps, and information, and may spend as long as they like exploring (wear old clothes and sturdy footwear). Calgardup Cave on Caves Road, about 12 minutes' drive south of Margaret River, has water in 2 caverns, giving superb reflections. Giants Cave, 20 minutes south of Margaret River on Caves Road, is one of the largest and deepest caves on the Leeuwin-Naturaliste Ridge, and is a "through" cave 800m (2,624 ft.) long, with a different entrance and exit. Entry times vary seasonally so check with National Park Information Centre (tel. 08/9757 7422) at Calgardup Cave, where you also buy your tickets for A$12 (US$11/£5.5) adults, A$6 (US$5.40/£2.70) children 6 to 15, A$35 (US$32/£16) families (two parents and two kids), all including helmets and lamps. The center also has walking maps and information on camping sites and activities in the Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park.

Ngilgi Cave, Caves Road, Yallingup (tel. 08/9755 2152), farther north (closer to Dunsborough), has beautiful translucent stalactite "shawls" in its main chamber. Semi-guided tours (guides are available to answer questions but do not conduct tours) run half-hourly from 10am to 3:30pm at A$18 (US$16/£8) for adults, A$9 (US$8/£4) for children 5 to 17, or A$49 (US$44/£22) for families of four. Ngilgi offers excellent guided adventure tours, where you go "backstage," crawling and even slithering in protective clothing. The tour runs on demand, for A$130 (US$117/£58) -- minimum age 16 years. "Short" adventure tours are less demanding and take 1 1/2 hours, at A$30 (US$27/£14) adults, A$18 (US$16/£8) children 10 to 16, but with a minimum charge of A$140 (US$126/£61). Book all tours at least 24 hours ahead. The cave is open every day except December 25.

Food-based attractions are opening up in the area all the time. You can pick your own kiwi, raspberries, and other fruit at the Berry Farm, 222 Bessell Rd., outside Margaret River (tel. 08/9757 5054; www.berryfarm.com.au), or buy attractively packaged (fruit-based) wines, jams, and vinegars. At the Margaret River Chocolate Company, Harman's Mill Road (at Harman's Rd. S.), Metricup (tel. 08/9755 6555; www.chocolatefactory.com.au), you can participate in free tastings, watch the candy-making through a window, and, of course, buy up the sweet stuff and coffees. Open daily 9am to 5pm, closed December 25. Olio Bello, on the corner of Armstrong Road and Cowaramup Bay Road, Cowaramup (tel. 08/9755 9771; www.oliobello.com), was the 2006 Australian Olive Grower of the Year. You can buy a range of organic olive oils, soaps, and body creams, dips, and tapenades, and there's a cafe. Olio Bello also has macadamias, fruit trees, and native shrubs, so the place is full of birds. It's open daily 10am to 4:30pm, and closed Good Friday, December 25 and 26, and January 1.

Margaret River Venison, Caves Road, Margaret River, just south of Olio Bello (tel. 08/9755 5028), is a family-run enterprise, selling products derived from deer raised on the property. It's open daily 9am to 6pm. The Margaret River Dairy Company, Bussell Highway, Cowaramup, just north of the village (tel. 08/9755 7588), uses local milk to make a range of cheeses and yogurts and is open 9:30am to 5pm; it's closed Good Friday, December 25 and 26, and January 1. Some of WA's finest ice cream is made at Simmo's Ice Creamery, southeast of town at 161 Commonage Road, Dunsborough (tel. 08/9755 3745; www.simmos.com.au), which is open 10am to 5:30pm but closed December 25.

If you want to see kangaroos in the wild and learn more about this region, make time for a Margaret River with Neil McLeod tour (tel. 08/9757 2747; www.margaretriver-mcleodtours.com). Neil was raised in the area on his parents' dairy farm and now runs illuminating tours covering aspects of the region's early history; visits to Surfer's Point and Redgate Beach; the karri forest, vineyards and wildflowers; and his own bush property bounding with kangaroos. Billy tea and "Mum's fruit cake" are served on the banks of a stream. Tours depart daily, from the Margaret River Visitor Centre, and cost A$95 (US$86/£43) adults and A$65 (US$58/£29) children under 15 for the Bush Scenery Winery Tour, or A$35 (US$32/£16) adults and A$20 (US$18/£9) children for the Sunset Kangaroo Safari.

From June through December, whales play just offshore all along the coast. There is a whale lookout near the Cape Naturaliste lighthouse. Daily 3-hour whale-watching cruises with Naturaliste Charters (tel. 08/9755 2276; www.whales-australia.com) depart June through August from Augusta and cruise around Flinders Bay, where you'll probably see humpback and southern right whales and often dolphins. September through December, the cruise departures switch to Dunsborough, where the migrating humpbacks rest their calves in sheltered Geographe Bay. The boat is fitted with an underwater camera connected to a TV and a hydrophone, so you can see and hear the creatures. Cruises cost A$60 (US$54/£27) for adults, A$44 (US$40/£20) for students 13 to 17, A$33 (US$30/£15) for children 4 to 12, and A$170 (US$153/£77) for families of four.

Scenic Forest Drives -- Boranup Drive is a magical detour off Caves Road through towering karris. It leaves Caves Road 6km (3 3/4 miles) south of Mammoth Cave and meanders through the forest on gravel roads on a glorious 14km (8 3/4-mile) drive. Boranup Forest, despite its impressive height, is regrowth, the entire area having been logged in the early 20th century.

Galleries Galore

The natural beauty of the Margaret River region and its associated lifestyle have inspired many artists to make their homes here. You can watch them work and perhaps buy a unique souvenir from around 35 studios and galleries, mostly found close to Dunsborough or Margaret River town. Follow the Artisans Map, available from tourist information centers, hotels, and galleries.

Near Dunsborough, Jewel of the Capes, 136 Marrinup Dr. (off Caves Rd.), Yallingup (tel. 08/9756 6336), showcases the creative handcrafted jewelry of John Miller. Others in the "don't-miss" category here are Gunyulgup Galleries, Gunyulgup Valley Drive (off Caves Rd.) near Yallingup (tel. 08/9755 2177), and Yallingup Galleries on Caves Road (tel. 08/9755 2372), where you can see the work of many fine Australian artists, jewelers, and craftspeople. Not far away is Happs Vineyard and Pottery, Commonage Road, Dunsborough (tel. 08/9755 3479). Miles Happ runs the pottery side while his father is in charge of the winery.

Just outside Margaret River, stop off to see potters Rod Dilkes and Tova Hoffman creating their lustrous "phoenix" bowls with iridescent glazes. Dilkes-Hoffman Ceramics is on Caves Road, 4km (2 1/2 miles) north of Walcliffe Road (tel. 08/9757 2998).

Serious lovers of glass art should head to Fox Galleries, Brockman Highway, Karridale, south of Margaret River (tel. 08/9758 6712), which master glassmaker Alan Fox only opens by appointment. His superb creations are in numerous collections, including Buckingham Palace.

Beautiful furniture is made at several places, using the magnificent local jarrah timber. The best is at Boranup Gallery, Caves Road, close to the Boranup Road turnoff (tel. 08/9757 7585), featuring stunning jarrah burl inlays, as well as art, glass, and ceramic works.

Touring the Wineries

Fans of premium wines will have a field day. Cabernet sauvignon and merlot are the star red varieties, with most wineries making a straight cabernet and/or a cabernet-merlot blend. Shiraz is also popular and Cape Mentelle makes a powerful zinfandel. Chardonnay is the standard single variety white wine, while fresh vibrant Semillon-sauvignon blanc blends have become synonymous with the region. A few wineries make (Australian-style) rieslings. Most wineries offer free tastings from 10am to 4:30pm daily. There are two main clusters of vineyards; the biggest grouping is in the northern half in the Willyabrup area, with a smaller number, including several big names, around Margaret River Township.

The region's best known winery is Leeuwin Estate, Stevens Road, Margaret River (tel. 08/9759 0000). It has a towering reputation, with its Art Series chardonnay often rated Australia's finest. Winery tours run three times a day. A relative newcomer, Voyager Estate, Stevens Road, Margaret River (tel. 08/9757 6354), has exquisite rose gardens and a South African Cape Dutch-style cellar and restaurant. The three pioneer vineyards from the late 1960s, Moss Wood, Vasse Felix, and Cullen's, are all still rated very highly. Other labels to look for are Cape Mentelle, Devil's Lair, Madfish (Howard Park Wines), Lenton Brae, Pierro, Woodlands, and Cape Grace Wines. Ashbrook takes a very serious approach to style and quality, and makes one of the best WA rieslings. Some wineries make excellent "quaffers" -- Aussie slang for easy-drinking, inexpensive wines. Vasse Felix makes Theatre Red and Theatre White, while Cape Mentelle sells 1.5-liter bottles of its red and white CMV wines.

A Wine-Buying Tip -- Most wineries don't deliver internationally, and the wine you like might not be exported to your country of residence, so use the services of the Margaret River Regional Wine Centre, 9 Bussell Hwy., Cowaramup (tel. 08/9755 5501; www.mrwines.com). It stocks most local wines; does daily tastings; and sells maps, visitor guides, and winery guides. The expert staff will help you make your choices and even tailor your day's foray. It's open Monday through Saturday from 10am to 8pm, and Sunday from noon to 6pm (closed Good Friday and Dec 25). You can also order through the website.

Taking a Dip with Flipper

The wild dolphins that come to Monkey Mia's shore are justly famous. But you can swim with these creatures on the way to Margaret River, at Rockingham, 45 min south of Perth, and Bunbury 2 hours away.

Rockingham Dolphins, at the corner of Val Street and the Esplanade, Rockingham (tel. 08/9591 1333; www.dolphins.com.au), takes you out into Cockburn Sound, home to some 180 wild dolphins. You're led on a snorkeling swim, while the crew entice the dolphins to swim around with you. The dolphins certainly seem to enjoy the encounter and a 99% success rate is claimed. Tours are daily September to May and include a light lunch, at A$195 (US$176/£88) per person, A$20 (US$18/£9) more with pickup from your Perth hotel. An alternative is the 2-hour Dolphin Watch cruise at A$55 (US$50/£25) adults, A$33 (US$30/£15) kids 3 to 12, and A$159 (US$144/£72) families of two adults and two children, more with Perth pickup.

At the Bunbury Dolphin Discovery Centre, Koombana Drive, Bunbury (tel. 08/9791 3088; http://dolphins.mysouthwest.com.au), bottlenose dolphins come into shore in Koombana Bay. You can "float" with them free in the waist-deep "interaction zone" on the beach. The dolphins don't show up about a third of the time (the best chance is 8am-noon), and the water does not usually have the same clarity as at Monkey Mia. Reservations are not necessary. From November to April (weather dependent), 3-hour "Swim on the Wild Side" tours enable you to snorkel, accompanied by a marine biologist, with some of the bay's 100-plus dolphins, in deeper water, for A$135 (US$122/£61) including equipment; you must be over 8 years old. Dolphin ecocruises run twice daily (except Dec 25 or in bad weather) from the center at 11am and 3:15pm (2pm in winter); they cost A$46 (US$42/£21) adults, A$29 (US$26/£13) kids 4 to 12, A$33 (US$30/£15) kids 13 to 17, or A$132 (US$118/£59) families of two adults and two kids. The center has showers, a cafe, and a good little ecodisplay on the dolphin life cycle; admission is A$7 (US$6.30/£3.15) adults; A$4 (US$3.60/£1.80) seniors, students, and children; A$18 (US$16/£8) families. Tour costs include center entry. The center is open daily from 8am to 4pm (Sept-May) and 9am to 3pm (June-Aug) and closed December 25. For information about the ethics of swimming with dolphins, visit the Whale and Dolphin Conservation Society (www.wdcs.org).

Concerts and Kookaburras

Every summer, Leeuwin Estate Winery (tel. 08/9759 0000; www.leeuwinestate.com.au) stages its Leeuwin Concert Series starring leading showbiz lights (past performers have included Sting, kd lang, Dame Kiri Te Kanawa, Julio Iglesias, and Diana Ross) and usually a major orchestra, attended by 6,000 picnicking guests. Tickets are about A$130 (US$117/£59). There may be three of these major events in a season, and they sell out months ahead. The concerts are held in the open air, below the winery, and are accompanied by kookaburras cackling in the surrounding karri trees.