Getting There -- There is no regular bus service to María la Gorda. If you are coming, check with the Gaviota hotel chain, which runs the only hotel here -- they can arrange transportation to and from Havana with one of the tour agencies that use the hotel.
To get here by car, take the Autopista Nacional (A4) west to Pinar del Río. From Pinar del Río, it's another 94km (58 miles) to María la Gorda on the old Carretera Central passing through the prime tobacco-growing towns of San Juan y Martinez and Isabel Rubio, and then continuing on to Sandino and La Fe. You'll hit the water at Bahía de Corrientes at La Bahada. The road to the left leads 14km (8 3/4 miles) to María la Gorda. The road to the right heads out the peninsula another 54km (34 miles) to Cabo de San Antonio.
The Marina María la Gorda (tel. 82/77-1306) is an official entry and exit port for yachts. When arriving by sea, contact the marina before entering Cuban waters (19km/12 miles offshore) on VHF channels 16 or 19, or HF channel 2760. There's theoretically a Customs and Immigration officer on duty 24 hours, and water, electricity, and fuel can be had while tying up to the small pier here.
Getting Around -- Transtur (tel./fax 82/77-8131) has a car- and scooter-rental desk here. A four-door compact car with air-conditioning will run you between CUC$55 and CUC$80 dollars daily, including insurance and unlimited mileage, while scooters go for around CUC$25 to CUC$35 per day.