Side Trips

Side Trip to Datça Peninsula & Environs

Remote enough to weed out the riffraff, but easily accessible via ferryboat from Bodrum, Datça and its rugged surroundings are historic, peaceful, and most of all, unspoiled. The stunning coves of Palmut Bükü, Mesudiye, Domuzcukuru, Akvaryum, and Kargi boast some of the cleanest water in the Mediterranean, and with a 33% presence of oxygen in the air and a perfect Mediterranean climate, these elements combine to support the legendary longevity of the residents of Datça.

The proximity to the Greek islands of Rhodes and Simi can only suggest the richness of the Dorian civilization that passed here, but a look at the ancient ruins of Knidos, whose terraced promontory rises above the site's dual harbors, certainly give us a clue. (Admission to the site is 4YTL/$3.) The lovely port village of Datça is the center of activity at this end of the peninsula; in fact, Datça is the site of the original ancient city of Knidos, which moved to its current "new" position at the extreme western point of the peninsula in about 360 B.C. More recent settlements are the villages of Eski Datça and Resadiye, located along the road between Datça and Körmen (the ferry landing about 6.5km/4 miles to the north). Eski or Old Datça is a landlocked village straight out of the storybooks, a minuscule cluster of old stone houses, carved doorways, and cobbled lanes dating back to when this was a Greek town. One or two coffeehouses and a pension or two hidden behind sandy stone walls provide a respite from an already thoroughly charming visit. The village of Resadiye exhibits some traditionally Turkish architecture and is worth a walk-through as well.

The road west of Datça discourages casual travel, as it is unpaved and bumpy. Not surprisingly, this end of the peninsula offers some of the most pristine bays and ancient sites, but you may want to consider arriving by boat (day excursions leave from Datça town daily; the cost is about 20YTL/$15 per person) to make the most of the peninsula's coastal wonders.

Getting Here & Getting Around -- Ferryboat service from Bodrum operates daily May through October to the minuscule port of Korman (2 hr.; 15YTL/$11 one-way; 26YTL/$19 round-trip.); a shuttle bus from the landing will take you the remaining 5km (3 miles) to Datça town. From Marmaris, it's about an hour's drive over hilly terrain; longer if you've opted for a dolmus.

Excursion boats leave daily in season from Datça harbor to Knidos, making stops at a number of the more scenic coves along the way. By car, the road west of Datça is essentially a bumpy dirt path that leads to Knidos; the terrain is rugged and takes about 45 minutes.

Where to Stay & Dine -- In spite of the presence of a number of holiday resorts, the pace of this end of Mediterranean Turkey promotes a more intimate, relaxed style of lodging. Charming and tranquil hardly describes the Dede Pansiyon (tel./fax 0252/712-3951; www.dedepansiyon.com), a quiet and flowering retreat in the heart of Eski Datça. The pension is actually a renovated Greek house, complete with a swimming pool, snack bar, and a mere six rooms. Each room is faithfully decorated according to its namesake: The Chaplin room is full of movie-related objects, the Theatre room displays masks and such, and the Chagall room contains reproductions of the famous artist's works. This is a true and unencumbered retreat. All rooms have air-conditioning, and doubles cost 60€ ($72).

About .8km ( 1/2 mile) outside of Datça town is the Marphe Hotel, Kocatarla (tel. 0252/712-9030; fax 0252/712-9172; www.hotelmarphe.com), set up like a Greek village, and constructed of whitewashed and natural stone. The Marphe consists of 7 apartments (bedroom, living room, full kitchen, and balcony), 7 suites, and 12 villas (2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, living room, full kitchen, 2 balconies, and a terrace on a huge garden property in the countryside). Prices for a suite are 75€ ($92), or 45€ ($55) in low season), including breakfast. Weekly villas rates (daily not available) range from 850€ to 1,800€ ($1,040-$2,200), or 700€ to 1,500€ ($850-$1,830) in low season. Breakfast is not included in the apartments or villas, but Marphe has an on-site restaurant, and also offers a shuttle service into town.

The Olive Farm -- Visitors to Turkey marvel over the superiority of the olive oil. But sheltered from the international craze for quality food products and produced by people simply unequipped to compete with an advanced marketing presence coming out of Italy, Turkish olive oil regrettably remains isolated within Turkey's borders. The Olive Farm (tel. 0252/712-0306; www.olivefarm.net) will hopefully change all that. The Olive Farm (also known as Guller Dagi Ciftligi, or the Mountain of Roses Farm, named after the American couple that pioneered it) combines top-quality olives, the strictest handling procedures, and savvy marketing techniques to promote an otherwise overlooked national treasure. The Olive Farm is located only 5 minutes east of Datça, and offers tours of the mill along with tastings. If you show up on a Friday, you get the added opportunity to buy their olive bread. Bottles of oil sell on the premises for 11YTL to 24YTL ($8-$18) per liter (worth every penny). Olive Farm products are also available through their store in Portland, Oregon (tel. 888/380-8018).