L'Epuisette

For your bouillabaisse fix, head for this bluff at the mouth of an inlet in the fishing port of Vallon des Auffes, half a mile from the center of Marseille. Here you can have your bouillabaisse at the old port and understand why Dumas, Zola, and Standhal smacked their lips over this succulent dish. The restaurant, which has been entrancing diners for more than half a century, also has other goodies on the menu, notably gazpacho of zucchini with fresh mint or a ravioli of lobster with a tarragon-perfumed mousse. Monkfish, "the poor man's lobster," comes with young purple flowering artichokes. For dessert, why not the coffee-flavored upside down layer cake with peanut ice cream and an espresso sauce?

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