Introduction to Martha's Vineyard

New England sea captains' houses, white picket fences, and ice-cream shops trim an authentic fishing village. Lighthouses pierce the fog with their signals. A Native American community preserves its identity amid miles of pristine beaches and rolling farmland. Martha's Vineyard is a picturesque island indeed.

Visit the Vineyard to bicycle the shaded paths that hug the coastline. Admire the regal mariners' homes in Edgartown and stop by the Edgartown Scrimshaw Gallery for a memento of the sea. Stroll down Circuit Avenue in Oak Bluffs with a Mad Martha's ice-cream cone and then ride the Flying Horses Carousel, said to be the oldest working carousel in the country. Don't miss the cheerful "gingerbread" cottages behind Circuit Avenue, where you can almost hear the echoes of 19th-century revival meetings in the imposing Tabernacle. Travel the country roads of West Tisbury and Chilmark, stopping at Allen Farm for sweaters made from the wool of their flock of over 200 sheep. Buy bread at the Scottish Bakehouse in North Tisbury and a lobster roll in the fishing village of Menemsha.

Unlike much of New England, Martha's Vineyard has long been a melting pot. In the tiny town of Aquinnah, the Wampanoag tribe is the only Native American tribe in the region to have official status in Washington, D.C. Once known as Gay Head, the red-clay cliffs of Aquinnah are a National Historic Landmark. The Wampanoags, 12th-generation Vineyarders, farm the land in Chilmark, and at Cronig's Market they rub shoulders with posh Yankees from Edgartown.

In the late 19th century, the religious retreat community of Oak Bluffs was one of the first vacation spots for African Americans of means. Today this community includes such notables as film director Spike Lee and Washington power broker Vernon Jordan.

Unfortunately, Martha's Vineyard has been discovered, in a big way. When the former First Family, the Clintons, chose to vacation on the island several years in a row, it only increased the worldwide fascination with this popular place. In fact, the island is loaded with luminaries, but you are unlikely to see them, as they prefer private house parties. But don't come to this island on a star search: It's considered impolite to gawk and, like jaded New Yorkers, Vineyarders barely seem to notice the VIPs in their midst. Year-round locals and seasonal celebrity residents coexist in an almost effortless comfort, united in their protective attitude toward the island, their disapproval of traffic, and their criticism of the Steamship Authority.

There's always a lot of "hurry up and wait" involved in ferry travel to and from the Vineyard, so a weekend may not be enough time for a visit. If you're traveling from New York, take an extra day off, allowing a minimum of 3 days for this trip. Four days will feel more comfortable. One great way to shorten the journey from New York is to take the ferry from Rhode Island or New Bedford and avoid Cape traffic.

From Boston, a couple of days is fine (the drive from Boston to Woods Hole takes 1 1/2 hr. with no traffic), but beware of summer weekend bottlenecks (never aim for the last ferry). You really don't need to bring a car to get around this small island, but if you absolutely must be accompanied by four wheels, you'll need a car reservation for the ferry.

Try to savor the 45-minute ferry ride to and from this pastoral place. The Vineyard's pace is decidedly laid-back -- try to blend in with the ultracool attitude. The six towns on Martha's Vineyard have distinct identities, but they are either "down-island," referring to Vineyard Haven (officially called Tisbury), Edgartown, and Oak Bluffs; or "up-island," the towns of West Tisbury, Chilmark, and Aquinnah (formerly Gay Head).

If you can survive the hassles of getting to Martha's Vineyard, and can cope with the crowds and traffic once you arrive, you may just have the perfect vacation. Better yet, visit the island off season, in May or October, when the weather is often mild and the crowds have cleared out.

Going Native on Martha's Vineyard -- Down-island: If you must buy a Black Dog T-shirt, wait until you get home to wear it. Don't loiter at the Charlotte Inn. Have cocktails on the porch of the Harbor View Hotel. In Oak Bluffs, don't ask when Illumination Night is. (It's a secret.) Experience Edgartown on a snowy winter weekend or in spring when the lilacs are in bloom. Up-island: When in doubt, don't wear shoes. Sail a boat to a remote beach for a picnic. Don't view the rolling farmlands from a tour bus. By all means, bike. Kayak. Rent a cottage for a week or two. Don't be a day-tripper.