Restaurants tend to be expensive on the Vineyard, but the stiff competition has produced a bevy of places that offer excellent service, evocative settings, and creative cuisine. A note on spirits: Outside Oak Bluffs, Edgartown, and Vineyard Haven (also known as Tisbury), all of Martha's Vineyard is "dry," so BYOB; some restaurants charge a small fee for uncorking. Great Harbour Gourmet & Spirits, 40 Main St., Edgartown (tel. 508/627-4390), has a very good wine selection. There's also Jim's Package Store, at 27 Lake Ave., in Oak Bluffs (tel. 508/693-0236;

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