Restaurants

With soaring visitor statistics and a glamorous image, the Valley Isle is fertile ground not only for an international name or two (Wolfgang Puck of Spago) but also for Hawaii's famous enterprising chefs, such as Roy Yamaguchi of Roy's; Gerard Reversade of Gerard's; James McDonald of I'O and Pacific'O; Peter Merriman of Peter Merriman Kapalua; Mark Elman of Maui Tacos, Mala Ocean Tavern, and Mala Wailea; D. K. Kodama of Sansei Seafood Restaurant; and Beverly Gannon of Haliimaile General Store, Joe's, and Gannon's. There are also a few newcomers who are cooking up a storm and getting a well-deserved following, including Ryan Luckey of Pineapple Grill, Dana Pastula of the Cafe O'Lei restaurants, and Don Ritchey of Moana Bakery & Cafe.

In this dizzying scenario, some things haven't changed: You can still dine well at Lahaina's open-air waterfront watering holes, where the view counts for 50% of the experience. There are still budget eateries, but not many; Maui's old-fashioned, multigenerational mom-and-pop diners are disappearing, eclipsed by the flashy newcomers, or clinging to the edge of existence in the older neighborhoods of central Maui, such as lovable Wailuku. Although you'll have to work harder to find them in the resort areas, you won't have to go far to find creative cuisine, pleasing style, and stellar dining experiences.

Reservations are not necessary unless otherwise noted.

Central Maui

Kahului - The Queen Kaahumanu Center (www.queenkaahumanucenter.com) -- the structure that looks like a white Star Wars umbrella in Kahului at 275 Kaahumanu Ave. (a 10-min drive from Kahului Airport on Hwy. 32) -- has a very popular food court. Eateries include Edo Japan, whose flat Benihana-like grill dispenses marvelous, flavorful teppanyaki; Panda Express, which serves tasty Chinese food; and Alexander's Fish and Chips, a great place for fast takeout. Outside of the food court, but still in the shopping center, are Ruby's, dishing out burgers, fries, and shakes; and Starbucks. There's also a branch of Maui Tacos. When you leave Kaahumanu Center, take a moment to gaze at the West Maui Mountains to your left from the parking lot.

West Maui

Lahaina - There's a Maui Tacos in Lahaina Square (tel. 808/661-8883). Maui's branch of the Hard Rock Cafe is at 900 Front St., in Lahaina (tel. 808/667-7400).

Kaanapali - Whalers Village, 2435 Kaanapali Pkwy. in Kaanapali (www.whalersvillage.com/restaurants.htm), has a food court where you can buy pizza, Chinese food, ice cream, sandwiches, wraps, and burgers at self-serve counters and courtyard tables. It's an inexpensive alternative and a quick, handy stop for shoppers and Kaanapali beachgoers.

South Maui

Kihei/Maalaea - There's a Maui Tacos at Kamaole Beach Center, in Kihei (tel. 808/879-5005).

Wailea - The Shops at Wailea (www.shopsatwailea.com), with a sprawling location between the Grand Wailea Resort and Outrigger Wailea Resort, has added a spate of shops and restaurants to this stretch of south Maui. Five restaurants and dozens of shops, most of them upscale, are among the new tenants of this complex. Ruth's Chris Steak House is here, as well as Tommy Bahama's Tropical Cafe & Emporium, Honolulu Coffee Company, Kai Wailea, Longhi's, Cheeseburger Island Style, and Lappert's Ice Cream. Next door at the Wailea Beach Marriott Resort is Mala Wailea. 

Roselani: Maui's best Ice Cream

For the culinary highlight of your trip to Maui, try Roselani Ice Cream, Maui's only made-from-scratch, old-fashioned ice cream. In fact, be sure to try it early in your trip so you can eat your way through this little bit of heaven at restaurants and scooping parlors, or get your own stash at grocery stores. There are more than 40 different flavors, divided into two different brands under the Roselani label: the Premium Parlour Flavors (ranging from the traditional vanilla to the unique black cherry, cappuccino chip, fresh-brewed coffee, and choco-cookie crunch) and the Tropics (with delicious varieties like the best-selling haupia, made from coconut and macadamia nut, or the popular chocolate macadamia nut, Kona mud pie, mango and cream, coconut pineapple, and luau fudge pie). Each rich, creamy flavor contains 12% to 16% butterfat. For a list of hotels, restaurants, ice-cream parlors, and grocery stores that carry Roselani, either call Maui Soda & Ice Works tel. 808/244-7951 or check online at www.roselani.com.

The Ultimate Cookies

Looking for the ultimate taste treat to take to the folks back home? Try mouthwatering Broke da Mouth Cookies, 190 Alamaha St., Kahului (tel. 808/873-9255), open Monday through Friday from 6am to 7pm and Saturday from 7am to 5pm (get here early before the locals buy everything up). These terrific cookies range from chocolate mac-nut, oatmeal raisin, and shortbread to almond, peanut butter, and coconut crunch. While you're here, take a look at the other goodies -- the sweet potato-haupia pie is to die for, and the lilikoi (passion fruit) cake will make your taste buds stand up and applaud.

Special Find: Eat Like a local

Are you the type of visitor who feels you haven't "experienced" a destination unless you've hit the restaurants where the local residents eat? Or do you enjoy National Public Radio's Road Food, or any of the Food Network's on-the-road culinary shows? Then sign up for Tour da Food (tel. 808/242-8383; www.tourdafood.com). Pastry chef (and food writer, restaurant publicist, and cookbook author) Bonnie Friedman takes foodies off the tourist path to discover the culinary treasures -- from snack shacks to restaurants to markets and manufacturers -- that make up Maui's unique cuisine. You will laugh your way across the island with Bonnie's wonderful commentary about Maui's multicultural food options and its colorful history -- and you'll also eat some of the island's most yummy food (which you never would have discovered on your own). Check out her website to read about the different tours (from breakfast at an old inn to "lunch like a local" to "plate lunch and picnic with poke"); prices begin at $280 per couple, which includes transportation, a main meal, snacks, an island traditional dessert, a bag of goodies to take home, and Bonnie's personal list of under-the-radar eating places. Tip: Book this tour early in your trip, so you have time to follow Bonnie's terrific suggestions of places to eat on Maui. (Best to book at least 1 week in advance.) Bonnie's latest great idea is a personal restaurant guide, created from your food preferences (after you complete an online questionnaire), of 20 Maui restaurants for only $10!

Chef McDonald Has a Farm, E-I-E-I-O

Here's your chance to see where those delicious greens, sweet basil, and wonderful tropical fruits that make up your dinner at Pacific'O and I'O restaurants come from. James McDonald was the first chef in the state to own and operate a farm for the purpose of supplying his own restaurants. Your visit to O'o Farm begins with hot apple cider and pastries. The tour is led by a culinary specialist who helps you handpick items for your lunch. At the end of the tour, lunch is served. The cost is $50 per person. For more information, call tel. 808/667-4341 or go to www.oofarm.com.

The tiki Terrace

Bravo to the Kaanapali Beach Hotel for the low-salt, employee-tested Native Hawaiian diet served in its Tiki Terrace Restaurant, 2525 Kaanapali Pkwy. (tel. 808/667-0124). The Native Hawaiian Combination features the healthy, traditional diet of fresh fish (you can also order it with chicken breast) and taro greens and tomato, flavored with ginger and herbs. Fresh mild limu (seaweed) adds some natural saltiness, and you can always add your own salt and pepper to taste. The Native Hawaiian menu also includes a salad made from pohole fern shoots and ogo marinated with sweet Maui onions and tomatoes tossed with a lime-soy vinaigrette and served with papaya. (With their freshness, pleasing crunch, and mild flavor, fern shoots are one of the most underused greens of Hawaii.) Entree choices are accompanied by steamed purple sweet potato, taro, and fresh poi made on the premises. The dessert is half a chilled Hana papaya with lemon, grilled bananas, and pineapple slices. The cost for the Native Hawaiian Combination is $23.

The use of fresh local ingredients is a noteworthy touch in the a la carte menu as well. My favorites are the baked crab and shrimp with artichoke hearts and the coconut shrimp. Try Chef Muromoto's signature sesame shoyu dressing on the Kula greens salad -- it's a house favorite. The a la carte menu entrees are headed up by the Huki Hukilau, a combination of fresh catch, jumbo prawn, and baby lobster tail. The menu also includes steak, ribs, teriyaki grilled chicken, and rack of lamb.

The dining room is old-fashioned Hawaii, not fancy, with tables on a terrace ringed with plumeria and palm trees. Nightly entertainment is a hula show from 6:30 to 7:30pm and music for dancing under the stars until 9pm.

The regular Tiki Terrace breakfast menu presents all the old favorites along with the opportunity to sample Hawaiian food in a familiar context: taro hash browns; three-egg lomi salmon omelet with sweet-potato home fries; a fruit plate of banana baked in ti leaf with lehua honey and macadamia nuts, served with yogurt; and French toast made with taro bread. There are even Hawaiian taro pancakes, and they're wonderful. The Hawaiian Sunday Champagne Brunch ($37) features more than 50 items on the buffet, plus stir-fry, carving, and omelet stations, along with Belgian waffles and great desserts, all accompanied by Hawaiian music (9am-1pm).

The hotel also serves guests a complimentary Ohana Welcome Breakfast on their first morning at 8am Monday through Saturday, with live music, hula, a buffet breakfast, and advice on how to make the most of a Maui vacation. The hotel's staff greets guests, then takes to the stage for one of their specialties -- singing and dancing hulas. Then they are off to work while guests enjoy a tour of hotel events and island activities.

The emphasis on Hawaiian food is only one part of a pervasive spirit of aloha that distinguishes this hotel. Reservations are recommended for dining in the Tiki Terrace (tel. 808/667-0124). Dinner is served daily from 6 to 9pm.