What's New

Big, big changes are hitting the travel industry, especially on the tropical isle of Maui, as this book goes to press. Airlines are shutting down, charging a premium for window and aisle seats, and imposing fees for a second (and, in some cases, first) checked bag; hotel prices are rising; and the cost of gas (especially in Hawaii) has skyrocketed.

But in my experience, travelers are people who want to experience a new place and culture. They want to live it, breathe it, and incorporate these experiences into their lives to make them richer and fuller. Travelers travel. Period. So despite the woes of the airlines, and regardless of the increase in prices, nothing stops this breed from living life. And generally, such travelers are Frommer's readers. Here's where I come in: This guide lets you in on how to get the most out of your travel dollar, how to make the most out of your limited time, and how to experience the Maui of your dreams.

Planning Your Trip to Maui -- In 2008, both Aloha Airlines and ATA Airlines shut down, taking 16% of the seats from the U.S. mainland to Hawaii out of the market (not to worry, other air carriers are replacing those seats as fast as they can) and leaving nearly 1,000 fewer seats a week in the interisland market.

Just as Aloha Airlines was closing, another mode of transportation was opening. At press time, the Hawaii Superferry (tel. 877/HI-FERRY [443-3779]; www.hawaiisuperferry.com), after a few stumbling starts, had just begun interisland service between Honolulu and Maui, with plans to add service between Honolulu and Kauai and between Honolulu and the Big Island. Although not as fast as the 30-minute interisland flights (the Superferry takes 3 hr. from Honolulu to Maui), and at slightly higher ticket prices, the Superferry does offer the option of taking a vehicle interisland. However, if you're prone to seasickness, the Superferry may not be for you, especially in the winter months of November through March, when big ocean swells and strong winds move into Hawaii's waters.

Vog -- As if there weren't already enough changes to digest, Madame Pele, the volcano goddess, has done it again on the Big Island. In addition to the nearly continuous eruption (since Jan 3, 1983) on the side of Mauna Loa from the Kilauea vent, in 2008 she erupted from the main Halemaumau Crater in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. This was a very different volcano eruption: While past eruptions generally consisted of curtains of fire, with lava shooting several hundred feet into the air and then slowly rolling down the side of the volcano into the ocean, the 2008 eruption from Halemaumau made the earth shake, threw rocks (some the size of Volkswagens) into the air, and spit a pink ash into the sky that rained back to earth, covering nearby communities. The recent episode also raised the level of hazardous sulfur dioxide. How does that affect your trip to Maui (or Molokai or Lanai)? Beware that the vog (caused by gases released from the eruption of volcano) can, on occasion, blanket the state, not just the Big Island of Hawaii where the volcano is erupting.

Where to Stay -- Despite all the hoopla in the press, Maui County has not shut down B&Bs or vacation rentals. However, the Maui County (which consists of Maui, Molokai, and Lanai) Planning Commission is reviewing the requirements for permits for bed-and-breakfasts and vacation rentals. As we went to press, neither the Planning Commission (which is a regulatory body that does not make law, only offers suggestions to the County Council) nor the Maui County Council had passed any firm recommendations or laws on how to regulate these two entities in the future.

All of the B&Bs and vacation rentals recommended in this book have been in operation for years, all are reputable, and all have followed the law in paying state and county taxes. However, because there is no predicting what the government will do, please be sure to contact the B&B or vacation rental you are interested in -- ideally, way in advance of your trip -- to make sure you will get the accommodations of your choice.

In 2008, the Ritz-Carlton Kapalua reopened after an extensive $160-million renovation that transformed the hotel into an even more elegant property, with a focus on a Hawaiian (vs. the former European) theme. All guest rooms now have the latest technology, including flatscreen LCD TVs, DVD players, iPod docking stations, and wireless Internet access (included in the resort fee). The penthouse floor has been converted into Residential Suites (with kitchens, living rooms, and separate bedrooms), available for guests. Other transformations include upgrades to the signature 10,000-square-foot, three-tiered pool; a new children's pool; an Environmental Education Center; and a new 17,500-square-foot Waihua Spa, with 15 treatment rooms, saunas, whirlpool with lava-stone walls, and fitness center.

Where to Dine -- If you want a real Maui dining experience, sign up for Tour da Food (tel. 808/242-8383; www.tourdafood.com). Chef Bonnie Friedman takes foodies off the tourist path to discover the culinary treasures (from snack shacks to restaurants to markets and manufacturers) that make up Maui's unique cuisine. Accompanied by Bonnie's wonderful commentary on Maui's multicultural food options and its colorful history, you will eat some of the island's most yummy food (which you never would have discovered on your own).

Outdoor Activities -- Although Maui's volcano, Haleakala, is not erupting, there are changes afoot here. The national park is continuing its evaluation of the impact of commercial downhill bicycle rides inside the park. As we went to press, the five bicycle companies that have downhill tour permits will be allowed to continue their operations inside the park, while the remaining operators must simply start their tours outside the park to prepare to ride down the mountain. Be sure to check with the tour operator when you book -- ask whether the downhill tour actually starts inside or outside the park.

Maui After Dark -- The Grammy-winning Masters of Hawaiian Slack Key Guitar Concert Series (tel. 888/669-3858; www.slackkey.com) brings the best of Hawaiian music to the Napili Kai Beach Resort every Wednesday night at 7:30pm. Host George Kahumoku, Jr., introduces a new slack-key master every week. Not only are there incredible Hawaiian music and singing, but George and his guest also "talk story" about old Hawaii, music, and Hawaiian culture. Not to be missed.

Molokai -- After the demise of Aloha Airlines and ATA Airlines, the next giant closure of the year came when Molokai Ranch, owner of a third of the island and the largest employer on Molokai, shut down all operations: cattle ranching, the Lodge at Molokai Ranch, the Beach Village at Molokai Ranch, its restaurants, and a few shops in Maunaloa, leaving the planned community looking like a ghost town. However, Molokai Ranch and its operations were just one aspect of the "most Hawaiian" island, which is still as beautiful as ever and still beckons to those looking for a cultural experience, stepping back in time to old Hawaii.

Lanai -- In addition to the Four Seasons taking over the management of the Lodge at Koele and the Manele Bay resorts, the other big change on Lanai is that renowned Maui chef Bev Gannon (Haliimaile General Store, Joe's) has redesigned the menu at the new Lanai City Grille, located in the Hotel Lanai. The menu focuses on whatever is in season and fresh that day, with fish, seafood, meats, and rotisserie chicken among the offerings.