Getting Around

The only way to really see Maui is by rental car. There's no real island-wide public transit.

Maui has only a handful of major roads: One follows the coastline around the two volcanoes that form the island, Haleakala and Puu Kukui; one goes up to Haleakala's summit; one goes to Hana; one goes to Wailea; and one goes to Lahaina. It sounds simple, but the names of the few roads change en route. Study the foldout map included with this book before you set out. Also, you should expect to encounter a traffic jam or two in the major resort areas.

The best and most detailed road maps are published by This Week magazine, a free visitor publication available on Maui. Most rental-car maps are pretty good, too.

Traffic Advisory -- The road from central Maui to Kihei and Wailea, Mokulele Highway (Hwy. 311), is a dangerous strip that's often the scene of head-on crashes involving intoxicated and speeding drivers. Be careful. Also be alert on the Honoapiilani Highway (Hwy. 30) en route to Lahaina because drivers who spot whales in the channel between Maui and Lanai often slam on the brakes and cause major tie-ups and accidents.

All highways on Maui are packed, bumper-to-bumper, between 7 and 9am and 4 and 6pm, so plan accordingly.

If you get into trouble on Maui's highways, look for the flashing blue strobe lights on 12-foot poles; at the base are emergency, solar-powered call boxes (programmed to dial tel. 911 as soon as you pick up the handset). There are 29 emergency call boxes on the island's busiest highways and remote areas, including along the Hana and Haleakala highways and on the north end of the island in the remote community of Kahakuloa.

Another traffic note: Buckle up your seat belt -- Hawaii has stiff fines for noncompliance.

By Car

Maui has one of the least expensive car-rental rates in the country -- about $47 a day (including all state tax and fees); the national average is about $56. Cars are usually plentiful on Maui, except on holiday weekends, which in Hawaii also means King Kamehameha Day, Prince Kuhio Day, and Admission Day. Rental cars are usually at a premium on Molokai and Lanai, so book well ahead.

All the major car-rental agencies have offices on Maui, usually at both Kahului and West Maui airports. They include: Alamo (tel. 800/327-9633; www.goalamo.com), Avis (tel. 800/321-3712; www.avis.com), Budget (tel. 800/572-0700; www.budget.com), Dollar (tel. 800/800-4000; www.dollarcar.com), Hertz (tel. 800/654-3011; www.hertz.com), and National (tel. 800/227-7368; www.nationalcar.com). You might also want to check out Breezenet.com, which offers domestic car-rental discounts with some of the most competitive rates around.

There are also a few frugal car-rental agencies offering older cars at discount prices. Word of Mouth Rent-a-Used-Car, in Kahului (tel. 800/533-5929 or 808/877-2436; www.mauirentacar.com), has older cars (Toyotas and Nissans from 1995 to 2004) that start at $27 a day (air-conditioned, four-door), including all taxes, with a 3-day minimum, or from $156 a week, free airport pickup and drop-off included. Maui Cruisers, in Wailuku (tel. 877/749-7889 or 808/249-2319; www.mauicruisers.net), also offers free airport pickup and return on its 8- to 10-year-old Nissan Sentras and Toyota Corollas, with rentals starting at $31 a day (3-day minimum) or $175 a week (including tax and insurance).

To rent a car in Hawaii, you must be at least 25 years old and have a valid driver's license and a credit card.

If you're visiting from abroad and plan to rent a car in the United States, keep in mind that foreign driver's licenses are usually recognized in the U.S., but you should get an international one if your home license is not in English.

Insurance -- Hawaii is a no-fault state, which means that if you don't have collision-damage insurance, you are required to pay for all damages before you leave the state, whether or not the accident was your fault. Your personal car insurance back home may provide rental-car coverage; read your policy or call your insurer before you leave home. Bring your insurance identification card if you decline the optional insurance, which usually costs from $12 to $20 a day. Obtain the name of your company's local claims representative before you go. Some credit card companies also provide collision-damage insurance for their customers; check with yours before you rent.

Easy Riding Around Maui

Don black denim and motorcycle boots, feel the wind on your face, and smell the salt air by riding a Harley, available for rent from Maui Harley-Davidson, 150 Dairy Rd., Kahului (tel. 808/877-7433; www.mauicarsandbikes.com). Rentals start at $79 for 3 hours or $129 a day.

Mopeds

Mopeds are available for rent from Aloha Toy Cars, 640 Front St., #5, Lahaina (tel. 888/883-1212 or 808/662-0888; or the Fairway Shops in Kaanapali tel. 808/661-9000; www.alohatoystore.com). Vespa scooters, which start at $40 for 4 hours and $50 for all day (8am-4pm), are little more than motorized bicycles that get up to around 35 mph (with a good wind at your back), so I suggest using them only locally (to get to the beach or to go shopping). Don't take them out on the highway because they can't keep up with the traffic. Toy Cars also rents motorcycles and dune buggies.

Taxis

For island-wide 24-hour service, call Alii Cab Co. (tel. 808/661-3688 or 808/667-2605). You can also try Kihei Taxi (tel. 808/879-3000), Wailea Taxi (tel. 808/874-5000), or Maui Central Cab (tel. 808/244-7278) if you need a ride.

Shuttles

SpeediShuttle (tel. 877/242-5777; www.speedishuttle.com) can take you between Kahului Airport and all the major resorts from 5am to 11pm daily.

Holo Ka'a Public Transit is a public/private partnership that has convenient, economical, and air-conditioned shuttle buses. Maui Public Transit consists of seven public bus routes, all operated by Roberts Hawaii (tel. 808/871-4838; www.mauibus.com). These routes are funded by the County of Maui and provide service in and between various central, south, and west Maui communities. All of the routes are operated Monday through Saturday only. There is no service on Sunday. The routes go from as far south as Wailea up to as far north as Kapalua. Fares are $1 to $2.