Come upcountry and discover a different side of Maui: On the slopes of Haleakala, cowboys, planters, and other country people make their homes in serene, neighborly communities like Makawao and Kula, a world away from the bustling beach resorts. Even if you can't spare a day or two in the cool upcountry air, there are some sights that are worth a look on your way to or from the crater. Shoppers and gallery hoppers might want to spend more time here.
On the slopes of Haleakala, Maui's farmers have been producing vegetables since the 1800s. In fact, during the gold rush in California, the Hawaiian farmers in Kula shipped so many potatoes that it was nicknamed Nu Kaleponi, a sort of pidgin Hawaiian pronunciation of "New California." In the late 1800s, Portuguese and Chinese immigrants, who had fulfilled their labor contracts with the sugar-cane companies, moved to this area, drawn by the rural agricultural lifestyle. That lifestyle continues today, among the fancy gentlemen's farms that have sprung up in the past 2 decades. Kula continues to grow its well-known onions, lettuce, tomatoes, carrots, cauliflower, and cabbage. It is also a major source of cut flowers for the state: Most of Hawaii's proteas, as well as nearly all the carnations used in leis, come from Kula.
Stop & Smell the Lavender -- While in the upcountry Kula region, stop by Alii Kula Lavender, 1100 Waipoli Rd., Kula (tel. 808/878-3004; www.aliikulalavender.com), which grows several different varieties of lavender, so one species of lavender is always in bloom. There are great tours to take while you're here. On the 30-minute Lavender Garden Walking Tour (daily at 9:30, 10:30, 11:30am, 1, and 2:30pm for $12 per person), you're served lavender herb tea with a lavender scone and given a garden and studio tour. My favorite, the Combo Tour ($37 per person) combines the walking tour with a lunch basket, which includes a choice of lavender beverage, a delicious lavender-seasoned chicken wrap, lavender gourmet chips, fresh fruit, and a decadent lavender brownie. If you book in advance, try for the Exclusive Cart Tour with Alii Chang, offered at 10am and 2pm daily ($25 per person). Five lucky people get to tour the farm through his eyes and hear the stories and history of this legendary farmer who has taken farming to an art form. Seasonal events offered range from a fabulous Valentine's Day Luncheon to a woven-lavender-wand-making workshop in the summer. Be sure to stop by the store and look over the culinary products (lavender seasonings, dressings, scones, honey, jelly, and teas), bath and body goodies (lotions, soaps, bubble baths, bath gels), aromatherapy (oil, candles, eye pillows), and other items (T-shirts, gift baskets, and dried lavender).
To experience a bit of the history of Kula, turn off the Kula Highway (Hwy. 37) onto Lower Kula Road. Well before the turnoff, you'll see a white octagonal building with a silver roof, the Holy Ghost Catholic Church (tel. 808/878-1091). Hawaii's only eight-sided church, it was built between 1884 and 1897 by Portuguese immigrants. It's worth a stop to see the hand-carved altar and works of art for the Stations of the Cross, with inscriptions in Portuguese.
Touring the Surfing Goat Dairy Farm -- Just beyond the sugar-cane fields, on the slopes of Haleakala, lies the Surfing Goat Dairy, 3661 Omaopio Rd., Kula (tel. 808/878-2870; www.surfinggoatdairy.com). Some 140 dairy goats blissfully graze the 42 acres and contribute the milk for 24 different cheeses, which are made every day. If you have kids in tow, they will love the 2-hour Grand Dairy Tour ($25) -- they get to be a goat herder for a day and even try to milk a goat. They can also play with the kids -- goat kids, that is. Meanwhile, mom and dad can learn how to make cheese and sample the different varieties made on the premises. Grand Dairy Tours are scheduled several times each month; call for information. If you don't have a lot of time, drop by for the 20-minute casual dairy tour (Mon-Sat 10am-5pm, Sun 10am-2pm) for just $7 a person. Be sure to sample the goat cheeses (off-the-charts terrific) and buy a bar or two of goat-milk soap.
