Come upcountry and discover a different side of Maui: On the slopes of Haleakala, cowboys, planters, and other country people make their homes in serene, neighborly communities like Makawao and Kula, a world away from the bustling beach resorts. Even if you can't spare a day or two in the cool upcountry air, there are some sights that are worth a look on your way to or from the crater. Shoppers and gallery hoppers especially might want to make the effort.
On the slopes of Haleakala, Maui's farmers have been producing vegetables since the 1800s. In fact, during the gold rush in California, the Hawaiian farmers in Kula shipped so many potatoes that it was nicknamed Nu Kaleponi, a sort of pidgin Hawaiian pronunciation of "New California." In the late 1800s, Portuguese and Chinese immigrants, who had fulfilled their labor contracts with the sugar-cane companies, moved to this area, drawn by the rural agricultural lifestyle. That lifestyle continues today, among the fancy gentlemen's farms that have sprung up in the past 2 decades. Kula continues to grow its well-known onions, lettuce, tomatoes, carrots, cauliflower, and cabbage. It is also a major source of cut flowers for the state: Most of Hawaii's proteas, as well as nearly all the carnations used in leis, come from Kula.
To experience a bit of the history of Kula, turn off the Kula Highway (Hwy. 37) onto Lower Kula Road. Well before the turnoff, you'll see a white octagonal building with a silver roof, the Holy Ghost Catholic Church (tel. 808/878-1091). Hawaii's only eight-sided church, it was built between 1884 and 1897 by Portuguese immigrants. It's worth a stop to see the hand-carved altar and works of art for the Stations of the Cross, with inscriptions in Portuguese.
Stop & Smell the Lavender -- While in the upcountry Kula region, stop by Alii Kula Lavender, 1100 Waipoli Rd. (tel. 808/878-3004; www.aliikulalavender.com), where they grow several different varieties of lavender, so one species of lavender will always be in bloom. There are great tours to take while you're there. On the Lavender Garden Tea Tour (10am daily), you are served lavender herb tea with a lavender scone and given a garden and studio tour for $35 per person. On the Lavender Garden Culinary Tour, you get lunch and a demonstration of how to cook using their lavender products for $60 per person. Other events are offered depending on the season, from a fabulous Valentine's Day Luncheon to a woven-lavender-wand-making workshop in the summer. Be sure to stop by the store and look over their culinary products (lavender seasonings, dressings, scones, honey, jelly, and teas), bath and body products (lotion, soaps, bubble baths, bath gel, and salve), aromatherapy products (oil, candles, eye pillow), and other products (T-shirts, gift baskets, and dried lavender).
