The Entertainment Scene

It Begins with Sunset . . .

Nightlife in Maui begins at sunset, when all eyes turn westward to see how the day will end. And what better way to take it all in than over cocktails? With its view of Molokai to the northwest and Lanai to the west, Kaanapali and west Maui boast panoramic vistas unique to this island. In south Maui's resort areas of Wailea and Makena, tiny Kahoolawe and the crescent-shaped Molokini islet are visible on the horizon, and the West Maui Mountains look like an entirely separate island. No matter what your vantage point, you are likely to be treated to an astonishing view.

In Kaanapali, park in Whalers Village and head for Leilani's (tel. 808/661-4495) or Hula Grill (tel. 808/667-6636), next to each other on the beach. Both have busy, upbeat bars and tables bordering the sand. These are happy places for great people-watching, gazing over at Lanai, and enjoying mai tais and margaritas. Hula Grill's Barefoot Bar appetizer menu is a cut above. Leilani's has live music Friday through Sunday from 2:30 to 5pm, while at Hula Grill the happy hour starts at 3pm, with live music from 3 to 5pm and hula at 8pm.

Now, Lahaina: It's a sunset-lover's nirvana, lined with restaurants that have elevated mai tais to an art form. If you love loud rock, head for Cheeseburger in Paradise (tel. 808/661-4855). A few doors away the Lahaina Fish Company (tel. 808/661-3472) and Kimo's (tel. 808/661-4811) are magnets all day long and especially at sunset, when their open decks fill up with revelers.

At the southern end of Lahaina, in the 505 Front St. complex, Pacific'O (tel. 808/667-4341) is a solid hit, with a raised bar, seating on the ocean, and a backdrop of Lanai across the channel. A few steps away, sister restaurant I'O shares the same vista, with an appetizer menu and a curved bar that will wow you as much as the drop-dead-gorgeous view.

In Wailea the restaurants at the Shops at Wailea, including the highly successful Tommy Bahama (tel. 808/875-9983) and Longhi's (tel. 808/891-8883), are a noteworthy addition to the beachfront retail-and-dining scene. Ferraro's and Spago (tel. 808/874-8000), both at the neighboring Four Seasons Resort Wailea, have great sunset views to go with their Italian and Pacific Rim menus. Farther south, in Makena, you can't beat the Maui Prince's Molokini Lounge (tel. 808/874-1111), with its casual elegance and unequaled view of Molokini islet on the ocean side and, on the mauka side, a graceful, serene courtyard with ponds, rock gardens, and lush foliage. Adding to the setting is the appetizer menu, which comes from the esteemed Prince Court kitchen. From 5 to 9:30pm nightly the pupu menu features a Molokini sampler platter for two: honey-glazed baby back ribs, chicken yakitori, and shrimp and crab spring rolls. Live Hawaiian entertainment runs nightly from 6 to 10:30pm, beginning with a mini-hula show from 6pm on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday and contemporary Hawaiian music until 10:30pm. Ron Kuala'au plays Sunday, Tuesday, and Thursday; Mele Ohana plays Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday.

Don't forget the upcountry view -- Kula Lodge (tel. 808/878-2517) has a phenomenal view that takes in central Maui, the West Maui Mountains (looking like Shangri-La in the distance), and the coastline. From 3:30 to 5pm the appetizer-only menu includes everything from Maui onion soup to a host of gourmet salads (the farmers are a stone's throw away), plus pot stickers, summer rolls, seared ahi, and crab cakes. Dinner begins at 5pm, so you can take in the sunset over Cajun ahi, New York steak, and other country-comfort fare.

West Maui: Lahaina, Kaanapali & Kapalua

Maui Brews, 900 Front St. (tel. 808/667-7794), draws the late-night crowd to its corner of the Lahaina Center with swing, salsa, reggae, and jams -- either live or with a DJ every night. Happy hour extends from 3 to 7pm, with $1 drafts and $1 wells. The nightclub opens at 9pm and closes at 2am. Depending on the entertainment, sometimes there's a cover charge (around $5) after 9pm. For recorded information on entertainment (which changes, so it's a good idea to check), call tel. 808/669-2739.

At Longhi's (tel. 808/667-2288) live music spills out into the streets from 9:30pm on weekends (with a cover charge of $5). It's usually salsa or jazz, but call ahead to confirm. Other special gigs can be expected if rock 'n' rollers or jazz musicians who are friends of the owner happen to be passing through.

The Hard Rock Cafe, 900 Front St. (tel. 808/667-7400), occasionally offers live music, so it wouldn't hurt to call them to see if something's up. Usually they feature mainland bands, normally on weekends after 10pm. Cover ranges from $3 to $5.

You won't have to ask what's going on at Cheeseburger in Paradise (tel. 808/661-4855), the two-story green-and-white building at the corner of Front and Lahainaluna streets. Just go outside and you'll hear it. Loud, live tropical rock blasts into the streets and out to sea nightly from 4:30 to 11pm (no cover charge).

Other venues for music in west Maui include the following:

Yorman's by the Sea, 760 Kihei Rd. (tel. 808/874-8385), generally features jazz every night from 6:30pm onward.

Hana Nightlife

Nightlife in Hana is pretty sparse. The only exception is the Hotel Hana-Maui (tel. 808/248-8211), which features Hawaiian music in the Paniolo Lounge Saturday through Monday from 6:30 to 9:30pm, and has a dinner hula show every Friday from 7 to 7:45pm in the Main Dining Room.

Upcountry Maui

Upcountry in Makawao, the party never ends at Casanova, 1188 Makawao Ave. (tel. 808/572-0220), the popular Italian ristorante where the good times roll. If a big-name mainland band is resting up on Maui following a sold-out concert on Oahu, you may find its members setting up for an impromptu night here. DJs take over on Wednesday (ladies' night), and on most Friday and Saturday nights, live entertainment draws fun-lovers from even the most remote reaches of the island. Entertainment starts at 9:45pm and continues to 1:30am. Expect good blues, rock 'n'roll, reggae, jazz, Hawaiian, and the top names in local and visiting entertainment. Elvin Bishop, the local duo Hapa, Los Lobos, and many others have filled Casanova's stage. The cover is usually $5 to $20. Come every other Sunday afternoon from 3 to 6pm for excellent live jazz.

Another place for live music in the upcountry area is the Stopwatch Sports Bar, 1127 Makawao Ave. (tel. 808/572-1380), which has live music from 9pm on Friday and Saturday.

Paia & Central Maui

In the unlikely location of Paia, Moanai Bakery & Café, at 71 Baldwin Ave. (tel. 808/579-9999), not only has some of the best and most innovative cuisine around, but recently it added live jazz on Friday nights from 6:30 to 9pm. There's no cover; just come and enjoy. Also in Paia, Charley's Restaurant, 142 Hana Hwy. (tel. 808/579-8085), features an eclectic selection of music from country and western (Willie Nelson has been seen sitting in) to fusion/reggae to rip-roaring rock 'n' roll; call for details.

In central Maui the Kahului Ale House, 355 E. Kamehameha Ave. (tel. 808/877-9001), features live music on Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and sometimes Saturday nights (call for times), from 10pm till close.

Other locations for live music include: Mañana Garage, 33 Lono Ave., in Kahului (tel. 808/873-0220), which has live music Monday and Saturday nights from 6:30pm on and DJs Wednesday and Friday. There's a cover of $10 for DJ nights. Sushi Go, in the Queen Kaahumanu Shopping Center, 275 Kaahumanu Ave., in Kahului (tel. 808/877-8744), features live music on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday.

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Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

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