Teacapan: Abundant Wildlife & A Rustic Village
Just 2 hours (131km/81 miles) south of Mazatlán is the fishing village of Teacapán, at the tip of an isolated peninsula that extends 29km (18 miles) down a coastline of pristine beaches. Mangrove lagoons and canals border its other side. Palm and mango groves, cattle ranches, and an occasional cluster of houses dot the peninsula, which ends at the Boca de Teacapán, a natural marina separating the states of Sinaloa and Nayarit. Shrimping boats line the beach at the edge of the marina, which backs up to the worn houses and dirt streets of town. A rugged place, it's recommended for those interested in birding.
Birders hire local fishermen to take them out around the lagoons, where they can see herons, flamingos, Canadian ducks, and countless other species. Inland, the sparsely populated land is a haven for deer, ocelot, and wild boars. There's talk of making the entire peninsula into an ecological preserve, and thus far, residents have resisted attempts by developers to turn the area into a large-scale resort. For now, visitors to Teacapán find the ultimate peaceful refuge.
Getting There -- By Car -- Drive south from Mazatlán on the highway to Escuinapa. There are no signs marking the right turn for the road to Teacapán; ask for directions in Escuinapa. If you're arriving from the south, turn left at the Bancomer building.
By Bus -- Autotransportes Escuinapa runs several second-class buses daily to Escuinapa; the fare is about $5. From there you can transfer to Teacapán (about $3/£1.65). The second-class bus station is behind the first-class station, across the lot where the buses park.
Copala: An Old Silver Town
Popular tours from Mazatlán stop here for lunch only, but Copala is well worth an overnight stay. The town was founded in 1565, and from the late 1880s to the early 1900s it was the center of the region's silver-mining boom. When the mines closed, the town was nearly deserted. Today, it's a National Historic Landmark with 600 full-time residents and a part-time community of retired Canadian and U.S. citizens devoted to Copala's picturesque solitude.
Every building in town is painted white, and most have red-tile roofs splashed with bougainvillea. Cobblestone streets wind from the entrance to town up slight hills to the main plaza and the 1610 Cathedral of San José. The town kicks into high gear (relatively speaking) around noon, when tour buses arrive and visitors stroll the streets surrounded by small boys selling geodes extracted from the local hills. By 3pm, most of the outsiders have left. You can wander the streets in peace and visit the century-old cemetery, the ruins of haciendas, and the neighborhoods of white villas.
Getting There -- Tours go to Copala and Concordia. Copala is an easy 2-hour drive from Mazatlán; drive south for about 25 minutes until you get to the detour for Durango, then turn west and drive to Concordia. From there, follow the signs for Copala; it's about 22km (14 miles). The Autotransportes Concordia bus service runs four buses daily from the second-class bus station, behind the first-class bus station. The fare is $4 (£2.20); check the schedule carefully before departing so you don't get stranded in Copala.
