Active Pursuits

To orient yourself, walk up and enjoy the panoramic view from El Faro, the famous lighthouse on the point at the south end of town. It's the second-highest lighthouse in the world (only Gibraltar's is higher), towering 135m (443 ft.) over the harbor. Begin at the end of Paseo Centenario, near the sportfishing docks. There's a refreshment stand at the foot of the hill. Allow about 45 minutes for the climb. The view is nearly as spectacular from the top of Cerro del Vigía (Lookout Hill), which is accessible by car from Paseo Olas Altas.

Beaches

At the western edge of downtown is rocky Playa Olas Altas, a lovely stretch of pounding surf not suitable for swimming. Around a rocky promontory north of Olas Altas is Playa Norte, which offers several kilometers of good sand beach.

At the Sábalo traffic circle, Punta Camarón juts into the water, and on either side of the point is Playa Las Gaviotas. Farther north, Playa Sábalo is perhaps the best beach in Mazatlán. The next point jutting into the water is Punta Sábalo, beyond which you'll find a bridge over a channel that flows in and out of a lagoon. Beyond the marina, more beaches stretch all the way to Los Cerritos. Remember that all beaches in Mexico are public property, so you have the right to enjoy the beach of your choice.

Mazatlán is one of only a few resorts in Mexico where surfing is common on central town beaches. The waves are best at Los Pinos, north of the fort -- known in surfing circles as "the Cannon" -- and at Playa Los Gaviotas and Playa Sábalo. Waves are most notable and consistent from May to September. Other notable surf breaks are found at Olas Altos, Cerritos, Isla de la Piedra, and El Camarón, at Playa Norte. For surf gear, board rentals, lessons, and surf reports, visit the Mazatlán Surf Center (tel. 669/913-1821; www.mazatlansurfcenter.com) in the Zona Dorada, at Camarón Sábalo, 500-4, next to the Dairy Queen. Boogie boards are widely available for rent, on the beaches in front of the Zona Dorada, for about $25 (£13) per day.

A good beach that makes a great day trip is on the ocean side of Isla de la Piedra (Stone Island). From the center of town, board a Circunvalación or Playa Sur bus from the north side of the Plaza Principal for the ride to the boat landing, Embarcadero-Isla de la Piedra. Small motorboats make the 5-minute trip to the island every 15 minutes or so, from 7am to 6pm, for a modest price. When you arrive on the island, walk through the rustic little village to the ocean side, where the pale-sand beaches, bordered by coconut groves, stretch for miles. On Sunday afternoons, the palapa restaurants on the shore have music and dancing, attracting mainly Mexican families; on other days the beach is almost empty. Carmelita's has delicious fish, called lisamacho; it's grilled over an open fire and served slightly blackened with fresh, hot corn tortillas and salsa. It's open daily from 10am to 6pm and doesn't accept credit cards.

The local gay beach is on Isla de las Chivas. Transportation to the island is by launches, which you can catch at the Muelle Puntilla, located next to the docks where the ferry to La Paz departs.

Cruises & Boat Rentals

The Kolonahe Sailing Adventure departs for Isla de Venados (Deer Island) Tuesday through Sunday from Marina El Cid. Reserve through any travel agent or through El Cid. This excursion sails aboard a 15m (50-ft.) trimaran to the island, where guests enjoy a picnic lunch and beverages, plus the use of snorkel equipment, boogie boards, kayaks, and canoes, for a cost of $35 (£18) per person. Departure is at 9:15am, with the boat returning at 3:30pm.

Anfibios, amphibious vehicles that operate on land and in the water, head for Isla de Venados, one of three big islands off the coast. Trips last 2 to 2 1/2 hours; they leave from the beaches of the El Cid Resort (tel. 669/913-3333, ext. 3341; www.elcid.com) daily at 10am, noon, and 2pm. Round-trip tickets cost $10 (£5), plus $10 (£5) for snorkeling gear.

Deep-Sea Fishing

Mazatlán claims to be the billfish and shrimp capital of the world, and whether or not it's a valid claim, deep-sea fishing in Mazatlán is generally less expensive than in other parts of Mexico. If you request it (please do), your captain will practice "catch and release." Rates are around $250 (£125) per day for a 7m (23-ft.) lancha for up to three persons and $430 (£215) per day for an 11m (36-ft.) cruiser for up to four passengers; rates do not include fishing licenses, drinks, or gratuities. Try the Aries Fleet located at the Marina El Cid harbormaster's office (tel. 669/916-3468). Locals suggest making fishing reservations for October through January at least a month in advance; at the very least, do it the minute you arrive in town. You may also choose to rent a panga (a small, uncovered, fiberglass boat with an outboard motor) at a rate of $50 (£25) per hour, with a minimum of 4 hours -- it's the way the locals fish.

Other Watersports

Among the best places to rent watersports equipment, from snorkeling gear to kayaks, are the Aqua Sport Center at the El Cid Resort (tel. 669/913-3333; www.mazatlan-aquasports.com) and the Ocean Sport Center at the Hotel Faro Mazatlán (tel. 669/913-1111; www.faromazatlan.com.mx).

Special Events in Nearby Villages

The weekend of the first Sunday in October, Rosario, a small town 45 minutes south on Highway 15, holds a festival honoring Our Lady of the Rosary, with games, music, dances, processions, and festive foods. From May 1 to May 10, Rosario holds its Spring Festival.

In mid-October, the village of Escuinapa, south of Rosario on Highway 15, holds a Mango Festival. For information, call the State Tourism Office at tel. 669/981-8886.

Spectator Sports

There's a bullring (Plaza de Toros) on Rafael Buelna about 1.5km (1 mile) from the Zona Dorada. From December to early April, bullfights take place every Sunday and on holidays at 4pm; locals recommend arriving by 2pm. Tickets range from $15 (£7.50) for general admission (ask for the shady side -- la sombra) to $30 (£15) for the front of the shaded section; most travel agencies and tour desks sell advance tickets.

Rodeos, or charreadas, take place at the Lienzo Charro (bullring) of the Asociación de Charros de Mazatlán (tel. 669/986-3510) on Saturday or Sunday beginning at 4pm. Tickets (around $4.50/£2.25) are available through local travel agents and hotel concierge desks, which will have the current schedule.

At Playa Olas Altas, daring cliff divers take to the rock ledges of El Mirador and plunge into the shallow, pounding surf below, a la Acapulco. The divers perform sporadically during the day as tour buses arrive near their perch, sometimes diving with torches at 7pm. After the dive, they collect donations from spectators. Follow the malecón to the esplanade and look for the mermaid statue to find El Mirador.

Tennis, Golf & Other Outdoor Pursuits

Mazatlán has more than 100 tennis courts. Try the El Cid Resort, on Camarón Sábalo (tel. 669/913-3333; hotel guests have priority), or the Racquet Club Gaviotas, Ibis, and Río Bravo in the Zona Dorada (tel. 669/913-5939). Many larger hotels in Mazatlán also have courts.

Mazatlán is probably the best golf value in Mexico. Try the 27-hole course at the El Cid Resort (tel. 669/913-3333). Nine holes designed by Lee Trevino complement the 18 holes designed by Robert Trent Jones, Jr. It's open to the public, with preference given to hotel guests. Tee times book up quickly. Greens fees for nonguests are $60 (£30) for 18 holes, plus $17 (£8.50) for the caddy. El Cid guests pay $42 (£21), plus $17 (£8.50) for the caddy. El Cid's facilities include a John Jacobs golf school, the only one in Mexico. It's open daily, from 7am to 5:30pm.

The 9-hole course at the Club Campestre Mazatlán (tel. 669/980-1570) is open to the public. Greens fees are $25 (£13) for 9 holes, $35 (£18) for 18 holes; a caddy costs an extra $10 to $15 (£5-£7.50), a cart is $15 to $20 (£7.50-£10), respectively. It's on Highway 15 on the outskirts of downtown.

Mazatlán's newest course is at the Estrella del Mar Golf Club (tel. 669/982-3300; www.estrelladelmar.com). The 18-hole, 7,004-yard course, also designed by Robert Trent Jones, Jr., stretches along 3km (2 miles) of coastline on Isla de la Piedra, a peninsula just south of downtown Mazatlán. There's a PGA pro on staff, and daily clinics. Greens fees run $110 (£55), $69 (£35) after 1pm; fees include cart, but no caddies are available. It's open daily from 7:30am to sunset. Also on-site are a golf shop, restaurant, and bar. Clubs are available for rent for $35 (£18) plus tax.

You can go horseback riding on Isla de la Piedra for $6 (£3) per hour. Ask your hotel's travel agent to arrange a kayaking excursion on El Verde Camacho Ecological Lagoon, or take a trip to Teacapán for birding in one of Mexico's largest estuaries.

Bird-watching tours are also being offered by Sendero Mexico (tel. 669/940-8687; www.senderomexico.com), an outfitter who has been offering a popular area kayaking tour. The birding tours can be arranged in conjunction with a kayak tour, or as a separate trip to either the foothills of the Sierra Madres or to the Palmito reserve (located just past Copala on the highway), home to the tufted-jay. The state of Sinaloa has 400 species of endemic birds -- a bonanza for birders. The town of El Palmito, situated within 10,000 acres of wildlife preserve, is part of a government tourism program to promote sustainable and eco-friendly tourism to rural and isolated areas, which is supported in part by Cornell University. As a trip to El Palmito is a bit too far for a day trip, there are three small "safari tents," and two two-bedroom cabins available for overnight guests. Although the trip is possible to make on your own, it's best and highly recommend to notify Sendero Mexico of plans to visit, or simply set up a visit through them. Sendero Mexico has been approached by the national government to spearhead efforts to duplicate their success at El Palmito in other regions nationwide.

Kelly's Bicycle Shop, Av. Camarón Sábalo 204, Loc. 16 (tel. 669/914-1187; www.kellys-bikes.com), in the Zona Dorada, arranges mountain-bike tours and rents aluminum-frame bikes with full suspension. A half-day guided tour costs $28 (£14); rentals are $8 (£4) per half-day, $15 (£7.50) per full day. Bike rentals include water bottle, snack, map, and general route information.