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Ask any local to recommend the best place to eat, and without fail they all answer Mencheva Kushta. Ask proprietor Mladen Menchev for his recommendation, and he points up to Varvara (tel. 088 799 2191 or 07437/388), the bustling mehana just below the Kordopulov House. Views from up here (you look down and across the village) are certainly sublime, as is the aroma that wafts across from the terrace as you enter or leave the Kordopulov House. But if you're only in town long enough for one meal, make sure it's the kavarma or meshaniza prepared by Mr. Menchev's cooks.

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