Wineries

How to See the Vineyards

The list of vineyards is enormous, the road maps unfamiliar, and the options endless. How exactly should you plan to make the most of your time in Mendoza? You have choices. First, you can sign up for a fully organized multiday trip led by a local guide who takes care of all the logistics and leads you into the heart of the wine land. You can also just join an organized tour for a day or two. Going on your own is another option. You can hire a remise for the day, call in advance to book your reservations, and head out. Renting a car is another alternative, but beware of drinking and driving! Finally, renting a bike gives the day a leisurely pace.

More and more bodegas are opening their doors to tourists; some offer guest rooms -- a fabulous trend that is definitely on the rise. If you fall in love with a particular vineyard, ask if they have guest rooms and see if you can stay the night.

The High Zone that surrounds the Mendoza River includes Luján de Cuyo and parts of Las Heras, Guaymallén, Luján, and Maipú. This first zone is best regarded for its production of Malbec, although cabernet sauvignon, chenin, merlot, chardonnay, and Syrah are all bottled here as well. Many of the bodegas in this zone lie within 1 hour's drive of Mendoza, making tours very convenient. I suggest you begin your touring here, where there is great variety and many visitor-friendly bodegas to choose from. South of Mendoza, the beautiful Uco Valley Region, including Tunuyán, Tupungato, and San Carlos, produces excellent Malbec, Semillon (a white), and Torrontés (another white, very floral, like a Muscadet, more common in Salta). Allow at least 2 hours to reach this area. It's a long drive but certainly worth the effort. Farthest away, the Mendoza South Region, between San Rafael and General Alvear, is fed by the Atuel and Diamante rivers. Its best varieties are Malbec, Bonarda, and cabernet sauvignon. You will need at least a day to visit this region.

The Mendoza East Region is the province's largest wine-producing area in terms of quantity (not necessarily quality). The vineyards, irrigated by the Tumuyán and Mendoza rivers, harvest Malbec, merlot, sangiovese, and Syrah, among others. There is little tourism infrastructure here.

With so many wineries (more than 650 at last count), it can be difficult to figure out which to visit. Some are massive, modern industrial complexes funded by foreign investors. Others are traditional "boutique" wineries run by the same family for generations. Most are open from Monday to Friday from 9am to 5pm, and Saturdays 10am to 3pm; some are now open from noon to 3pm on Sundays, although the Sunday visit slots are usually booked up early. Reservations are usually required for visits. Tastings are sometimes free and sometimes cost about $15 (£8.25), which is still a bargain.

Sunday Hours -- Sunday is a day for Argentines to be with family and have an asado barbecue. In Mendoza, as in most of the country, most shops, restaurants, and wineries are not open, with the exception of a handful of bodegas and the local mall (Mendoza Shopping Plaza).

Make the Most of Your Bodega Day!

Tour Operators

Local tour operators have the inside scoop on everything from booking rural inns to in-depth presentations on the local wine scene. They can make your time in Mendoza more carefree, helping you navigate the rural roads of Mendoza, and narrowing down the hundreds of bodegas to choose from. All you have to do is relax, soak up the gorgeous views, and indulge in some fabulous food and wine.

Bikes and Wine (tel. 261/410-6686) rents bikes from the center of wine country in Maipú, provides an easy-to-follow self-guided route map that includes a handful of close-by bodega visits, and books you for lunch. They'll also pick you up in downtown Mendoza, give you bikes, reserve your visits at wineries, and include a nice lunch for $30 (£17).

Trout & Wine (tel. 261/429-8302; www.troutandwine.com) run in-depth and personalized wine tours in Maipú, Uco Valley, and Luján de Cuyo. They know the people behind almost every vineyard in the area, offering a chance to get a more personalized, close-up experience. As their name suggests, they also run fly-fishing tours.

Uncorking Argentina (tel. 866/529-2861 or 261/429-3830; www.uncorkingargentina.com) is run by a transplanted Californian who has a deep knowledge of wine and friends throughout the local wine country -- a "wine educator" whose trips are informative, in-depth, and fun. Each tour package is customized, and wine tours can be combined with cooking classes, spa days, and adventure tours. A 1-day tour costs $110 (£61). All-inclusive 9-day tours start at $2,800 (£1,540). She also teaches short wine-tasting classes if you have a free evening and want to brush up before you head out.

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Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

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				Frommer's Argentina, 1st Edition Author: Michael Luongo Pub Date: July 30, 2007 Price: $22.99				Related Titles: Frommer's Brazil, 4th Edition Frommer's Buenos Aires, 2nd Edition Frommer's Chile & Easter Island, 1st Edition