Exploring the Area

The best way to see the Yucatán is by car. The terrain is flat, there is little traffic once you get away from the cities, and the main highways are in good shape. If you drive at all around this area, you will add at least one new word to your Spanish vocabulary -- topes (toh-pehs), meaning speed bumps. And along with topes you might learn a few new curse words. Topes come in varying shapes and sizes and with varying degrees of warning. Don't let them surprise you.

Off the main highways, the roads are narrow and rough, but hey -- you'll be driving a rental car. Rentals are, in fact, a little pricey compared with those in the U.S. (due perhaps to wear and tear?), but some promotional deals are available, especially in low season.

Plenty of buses ply the roads between the major towns and ruins. And plenty of tour buses circulate, too. But buses to the smaller towns and ruins and the haciendas are infrequent. One bus company, Autobuses del Oriente (ADO), controls most of the first-class bus service and does a good job with the major destinations. Second-class buses go to some out-of-the-way places, but they can be slow, stop a lot, and usually aren't air-conditioned. I will take them when going short distances. If you don't want to rent a car, a few tour operators take small groups to more remote attractions such as ruins, cenotes, and villages.

The Yucatán is tierra caliente (the hot lands). Don't travel in this region without a hat, sunblock, mosquito repellent, and water. The coolest weather is from November to February; the hottest is from April to June. From July to October, thundershowers moderate temperatures. More tourists come to the interior during the winter months, but not to the same extent as on the Caribbean coast. The high-season/low-season distinction is less pronounced here.

Should you decide to travel into this part of the world, don't miss Mérida. It is, and has been for centuries, the cultural and commercial center of the Yucatán. You won't find a more vibrant tropical city anywhere. Every time I visit, there is some festival or celebration to attend, on top of the nightly performances that the city offers its citizens and visitors. It's also the Yucatán's shopping center, where you can buy the area's specialty items, such as hammocks, Panama hats, and the embroidered native blouses known as huipiles. Aside from Mérida, here are some other places to consider.

Chichen Itza & Valladolid

These destinations are almost midway between Mérida and Cancún. From Mérida it's 2 1/2 hours by car to Chichén on the new autopista (toll road). You can spend a day at the ruins and then stay at one of the nearby hotels -- or drive 40km (25 miles) to Valladolid, a quiet, charming colonial town with a pleasant central square. Valladolid features two eerie cenotes. The spectacular ruins at Ek Balam are only 40km (25 miles) to the north. Also in the area is the Río Lagartos Nature Reserve, teeming with flamingos and other native birds.

Celestun National Wildlife Refuge

These flamingo-sanctuary wetlands along the Gulf coast contain a unique shallow-water estuary where fresh water from cenotes mixes with salt water, creating the perfect feeding ground for flamingos. Touring this area by launch is relaxing and rewarding. Only 1 1/2 hours from Mérida, Celestún makes for an easy day trip.

Dzibilchaltun

This Maya site, now a national park, is 14km (8 2/3 miles) north of Mérida along the road to Progreso. Here you'll find pre-Hispanic ruins, nature trails, a cenote, and the Museum of the Maya. You can make this the first stop in a day trip to Progreso and other attractions north of Mérida.

Progreso

A modern city and Gulf Coast beach escape 34km (21 miles) north of Mérida, Progreso has a wide beach and oceanfront drive that's popular on the weekends and during the summer. The recent arrival of cruise ships might make Progreso even more popular, but with so much beach, you'll easily have a place to yourself. From Progreso, you can drive down the coast to Uaymitún to see some flamingos and visit the recently excavated ruins of Xcambó.

Uxmal

Smaller than Chichén, but architecturally more striking and mysterious, Uxmal is about 80km (50 miles) south of Mérida. You can see it in a day, though it's a good idea to extend that somewhat to see the sound-and-light show and spend the night at one of the hotels by the ruins. Several other nearby sites make up the Puuc route and can be explored the following day. It's also possible, though a bit rushed, to see Uxmal and the other ruins on a 1-day trip by special excursion bus from Mérida.

Campeche

This beautiful, walled colonial city has been so meticulously restored that it's a delight just to stroll down the streets. Campeche is about 3 hours southwest of Mérida in the direction of Palenque. A full day should give you enough time to see its highlights and museums, but there is something about Campeche that makes you want to linger.