Hotels

Mérida is easier on the budget than the resort cities. The stream of visitors is steadier than on the coast, so most hotels no longer use a high-season/low-season rate structure. Still, you are more likely to find promotional rates during low season. Mérida has a convention center, which attracts large trade shows that can fill the city's hotels, so it's a good idea to make reservations. The rates quoted here include the 17% tax. When inquiring about prices, always ask if the price quoted includes tax. Most hotels in Mérida offer at least a few air-conditioned rooms, and some also have pools. But many inexpensive hotels haven't figured out how to provide a comfortable bed. Either the mattresses are poor quality, or the bottom sheet is too small to tuck in properly. Some hotels here would offer a really good deal if only they would improve their beds. One last thing to note: Without exception, every hotel in Mérida that doesn't have its own parking has an arrangement with a nearby parking garage, where you can park your car for a fee. Or you can park on the street, where for the most part cars are safe from vandalism. In Mérida, free parking is a relative concept -- for many hotels, free parking means only at night; during the day there may be a charge.

Haciendas & Hotels

Haciendas in the Yucatán have had a bumpy history. During the colonial period they were isolated, self-sufficient fiefdoms-not terribly efficient, but they didn't have to be. Mostly they produced foodstuffs -- enough for the needs of the owners and peasants plus a little extra that the owners could sell for a small sum in the city. The owners, though politically powerful, especially within the confines of their large estates, were never rich.

This changed in the 19th century, when the expanding world market created high demand for henequén, the natural fiber of the sisal plant, which was used to bale hay. In a few years, all of the haciendas shifted to mass production of this commodity. Prices and profits kept climbing through the end of the century and into the 20th. Hacienda owners now had lots of cash to spend on their estates and on heavy machinery to process the henequén fiber more efficiently. Then came the bust. Throughout the 1920s, prices and demand fell, and no other commodity could replace sisal. The haciendas entered a long decline, but by then, the cultivation and processing of sisal had become part of local culture.

To see and understand what things were like during the golden age, you can visit a couple of haciendas. One, by the name of Sotuta de Peón, has recently been refurbished and runs much like in the old days -- a living museum involving an entire community. At the other one, Yaxcopoil, you can wander the shell of a once-bustling estate and look for remnants of splendor.

Now another boom of sorts has brought haciendas back; this time as retreats, country residences, and hotels. The hotels convey an air of the past -- elegant gateways, thick walls, open arches, and high ceilings -- you get the feel of an era gone by. Indeed, there are a few features that make a guest feel like lord and master, especially the extravagant suites and personal service. But what strikes me the most when I visit these haciendas is the contrast between them and the world outside. They are like little islands of order and tranquillity in the sea of chaos that is the Yucatán.

There are five luxury hacienda hotels. The most opulent of these is La Hacienda Xcanatún (tel. 888/883-3633 in the U.S.; www.xcanatun.com). It's on the outskirts of Mérida, off the highway to Progreso. The suites are large and have extravagant bathrooms. The decor is in muted colors with rich materials and modern pieces that evoke the simplicity of an earlier age. It has the best restaurant in the Mérida area and a complete spa. The owners personally manage their hotel and keep the service sharp.

The other four luxury hotels are all owned by Roberto Hernández, one of the richest men in Mexico. The hospitality and reservation system are handled by Starwood Hotels (tel. 800/325-3589 in the U.S. and Canada; www.luxurycollection.com). The owner has taken great pains to restore all four haciendas to original condition, and all are beautiful. Temozón, off the highway to Uxmal, is the most magnificent. Uayamón, located between the ruins of Edzná and the colonial city of Campeche, is perhaps the most romantic. Hacienda San José Cholul, located east of Mérida towards Izamal, is my personal favorite, and picturesque Santa Rosa lies southwest of Mérida, near the town of Maxcanú. Packages are available for staying at two or more of these haciendas. All offer personal service, activities, and spas.

Two haciendas offer economical lodging. On the western outskirts of Mérida by the highway to Chichén Itzá and Cancún is Hacienda San Pedro Nohpat (tel. 999/988-0542; www.haciendaholidays.com). It retains only the land that immediately surrounds the residence, but it offers a great bargain in lodging -- large, comfortable rooms and an attractive garden area and pool. The other is Hacienda Blanca Flor (tel. 999/925-8042; www.mexonline.com/blancaflor.htm), which lies between Mérida and Campeche just off the highway. It's the only hacienda hotel that actually operates like one, producing most of the food served there. The owners work with bus tours but also welcome couples and individuals. Rooms are in a modern building and are large and simply furnished.

Two other haciendas can be leased by small groups for retreats and group vacations: Hacienda Petac (tel. 800/225-4255 in the U.S.; www.haciendapetac.com) and Hacienda San Antonio (tel. 999/910-6144; www.haciendasanantonio.com.mx). Both have beautiful rooms, common areas, and grounds.