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Elsa's Kopje, my favorite place to stay within Meru National Park, is reviewed below. It benefits from such a dazzling location and so much imaginative design that it cannot help but take your breath away. It also benefits from a special license that enables you to go on walks and night game drives and to fish Meru's rivers and streams. The only other option inside the park itself is Leopard Rock Lodge (tel. 020/60-0031 or 0733/333-100; www.leopardmico.com), a smart and fabulous place with 15 antique-stocked, thatch-roofed cottages on the edge of the Murera, a tropical, meandering river. One highlight here is the river's edge swimming pool where you can stare down crocs and hippos while floating in safer waters. The cottages are suavely appointed -- with massive private terraces, double bathrooms, stylish teak furniture, polished slate floors, Persian rugs, and high ceilings -- but they lack the organic rusticity and spectacular bird's-eye views of Elsa's Kopje (where you can't help but feel as though accommodations are thoroughly integrated into the natural rock setting). Game package rates at Leopard Rock are low season $1,100 double and high season $1,300, but you should also bear in mind that drinks aren't included in the rate at Leopard Rock, and that might crank up your final bill substantially.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.