A Quick Visit to Kalamata
Accommodations are pretty basic in Mavromati, so after you visit ancient Messene you may prefer to head to Kalamata, only 31km (19 miles) to the south. The 193-unit Filoxenia Hotel on the beach outside Kalamata has all the creature comforts, including several swimming pools and restaurants (Navarinou St., 24100 Kalamata; tel. 210-322-5891; www.grecotel.gr); doubles around 200€ ($260). In Kalamata itself, the 7-unit Hibiscus Hotel occupies a 19th-century neoclassical house, is furnished with antiques, and has its own peaceful garden (196 Faron St., 24100 Kalamata; tel. 27210/62-511; www.traditionalhotels.gr); doubles from 75€ ($98). If you get to Kalamata, try to eat the famous local figs and olives, take in the old market area, and visit the excellent Benakion Archaeological Museum, founded by the same family that gave Athens its Benaki museums. (Benaki and Papazoglou sts., 24100 Kalamata; tel. 27210/26-209; open Tues-Sun 8:30am-3pm).
