Nightlife

If you're here in July or August, head for Piazza del Duomo, the central cathedral square where free concerts devoted to rock, jazz, or classical music are presented. Posters advertise cultural events, and the tourist office will have details.

If your hotel has a bar, that's often your best and safest bet for a drink. The noisiest (and most fun) birreria is Gli Antenati Pub, Corso Cavour 109 (tel. 090-672430); its major drawback is that it's closed during the scorching months of June through August. Otherwise, it's a reliable place for a cold beer and pizza. The Duck, Via Pellegrino 107 (tel. 090-712772), is a British-style pub where you'll encounter U.S. sailors stationed with NATO forces around Messina. It's closed on Mondays and from July 15 to September 15.

Night Wandering: Do So at Your Own Risk

Some young men in Messina earn a living picking the pockets of foreign men and snatching the purses of foreign women. A woman wandering the streets at night does so at her own risk. Although men aren't as likely to get abducted or raped, they may be at risk of being mugged. The area near the Stazione Centrale, the main rail depot, is the most dangerous part of town -- that and the harbor are places to avoid after dark.