This traditional mountain village has become so popular that at times its original appeal is in danger of being overwhelmed by tourism at its worst. Still, most visitors find it satisfying -- some even find it magical. It's about a 1 1/2-hour bus ride east of Ioannina. A couple of buses go to Metsovo in the morning, but only one returns from Metsovo in the late afternoon that allows for a day in the village. So either pay close attention to the always-changing bus schedule or, better still, rent a car. (Buses also come from Athens and Thessaloniki.)
Metsovo sits at about 1,000m (3,300 ft.) above sea level, nestled among peaks of the Pindos Mountains. In addition to day-trippers, serious nature lovers and hikers are drawn here from all over Greece and Europe. Overnight accommodations are often strained, especially during Greek holidays. And with ski slopes nearby, Metsovo is also a popular winter destination.
The village is renowned for its Alpine-style architecture -- stone buildings with wooden balconies and slate roofs. Disneyland it ain't, but don't go to Metsovo thinking you'll discover a quaint native village. There's even a fairly ambitious conference center in town.
Crafts -- weaving, embroidery, and woodwork -- are on display in many shops along the main street. Some is touristy kitsch, but some is authentically local and handsome. The best can be found at Metsovo Folk Art Cooperative, about 50m (164 ft.) from the Egnatia Hotel on the slope above it. To see a traditional Epirote house with furnishings, visit the Tositsa Mansion (signposted just above the main street; open daily except Thurs; admission 3€/$3.90).
The Museum of Folk Art is in the Arhondiko Tositsa, a 17th-century mansion completely restored by Baron Michalis Tositsa, a wealthy Vlach living in Switzerland. With its paneled rooms, furniture, rugs, clothing, and crafts, it's a superb example of how a prosperous family might once have lived in Epirus. The museum, located on a road above the main street, is open in summer, Monday through Wednesday and Friday through Saturday from 8:30am to 1pm and 4 to 6pm; in winter, it's open the same days but from 3 to 5pm only. Admission is 2€ ($2.60).
Much more typical of Metsovo is the little church of Ayia Paraskevi on the main square, with its carved-wood altar screen, silver chandeliers, and copies of Ravenna mosaics.
The Vlachs -- One special reason to visit Metsovo is that it's the center (in Greece) of the Vlach people, who claim descent from Latin-speaking Wallachians of what is now Romania. The Vlachs were originally shepherds who followed their flocks, and some still do just that; but over the centuries, many other Vlachs settled down in Northern Greece and prospered in crafts, commerce, tourism, and trade. Some wealthier Vlachs made their money dealing in wool and other products from their flocks. Because the Vlachs wrote little of their distinctive Latin-based language down and because it's not taught in the schools, it's in danger of being lost as the new generation marries and moves away. You'll find the Vlachs of Metsovo extremely congenial -- and patient -- when visitors ask them to "say something in Vlach." (Don't expect your Latin to help much!) A declining number of older people wear traditional Vlach clothing every day, but fancier costumes come out on Sundays and holidays. If you want to see their dances, July 26 is the village's feast day but be forewarned -- the village will be jammed.
