Though self-described as serving "contemporary American" cuisine, Jaso is more "of the Americas". It combines elements of some of the best restaurants in the United States, with the best that Mexico has to offer, appropriate as the restaurant is the creation of American-born chef Jared Reardon and his wife, Arias, a master pastry chef and native of Mexico City. (Hence the name "Jaso," the first two initials of each chef’s first name.) As with so many of-the-moment eateries, the focus here is on local and seasonal foods, but with a little umph added thanks to the chefs' fondness for unusual foams, vegetable and fruit reductions, and uniquely paired ingredients (such as foie gras ravioli in a black truffle sauce with bitter Venezuelan chocolate shavings, raspberries, and shaved Parmesan cheese! Trust me, it's de lish and not to be missed). The decadently creamy pumpkin-lobster bisque with grilled jumbo shrimp is another stellar appetizer.  There is no wrong choice among the half-dozen entrées. The specialties include the short ribs, marinated in cocoa and spices and cooked for 18 hours in red wine sauce and served with creamy mashed potatoes. If you want to splurge (really splurge—it's US$80), try the Kobe beef with roasted parsnips and mashed potatoes in an espresso sauce. For fish lovers, the wild Atlantic salmon is marinated in miso, soy, and mirin (a sweet Japanese rice wine), then grilled and served with coconut-jasmine rice and an asparagus puree garnished with slivers of grapefruit. If you just can't decide, try chef Jared’s tasting menu, which includes a taste of most of the items on the menu and something tailored to the specific diner's likes. In the entrance to Jaso, you'll see Sonia Arias's confectionery handiwork: elaborate and quirky wedding and birthday cakes, pastries and homemade marshmallows that melt in your mouth. The marshmallows aren’t on the dessert menu, although they should be—order a box to enjoy in your hotel room. You won't regret it.