Following the one-day itinerary, this plan, which takes in the more recent history of the city as well as the traditional culture of Mexico, should make a nice contrast.
1. Have a leisurely almuerzo (breakfast/brunch) at Cafe Habana
You'll be dining with the ghosts of Che Guevara and Fidel Castro, who met over the cafe's strong coffee a number of times to plan the Cuban revolution. Evocative of history and staffed with colorfully gruff waiters, the spot makes an appropriate start to what will be a day of culture and history.
Either call for a taxi turismo or walk the 15 minutes (approximately 2km) to:
2. Mercado de la Ciudella
A perk of visiting Mexico's capital is that you can experience bits and pieces of culture from across the nation. Here, you'll find a selection of the finest arts, crafts, and homemade apparel shipped in from across the country. It's fascinating to walk through aisles of exquisite talavera pottery, silverware, sombreros, antiques, and more. Prices are reasonable, even more so if you haggle. If it's a Saturday, you'll see performances of danzon (traditional dances) right outside the covered market. Tip: Though many sources of information claim the market opens at 9am, most booths aren't open until 10am.
Call for a taxi and head to:
3. Super Taco Chupacabra
Your meal will cost far less than the taxi ride to this eatery set under the overpass of a highway. And you'll likely be the only tourist in sight. All the better to enjoy what we think are the city's best tacos. Be sure to load them up with lots of fixings from the free—and wildly varied—condiments bar.
Walk along Av. Rio Churubusco to Centenario where you'll turn right and head four blocks to Londres. There you'll take a left and walk one block to:
4. Museo Frida Kahlo
Having spent the morning examining handmade goods from across Mexico, you'll have a better appreciation for the art of Kahlo, who drew inspiration from these traditional crafts. This was her home, and it is still decorated much as it would have been at the time of her death. You'll see paintings from the artist, along with the pieces she herself collected. Expect to spend at least an hour here.
Exit the museum and walk along Londres for two blocks until you get to Gomez Farias. Turn left and walk three blocks until you're back at Rio Churubusco. Turn right and walk one block to:
5. Museo Casa de Leon Trotsky
A far more sobering historic home, this museum tells the charged story of the Russian Revolution, and its tragic aftermath for the family of one of its leaders. A surprisingly compelling place to visit, especially for history buffs.
If you still have the stamina (and time) for one more historic home, call for a taxi and head to:
6. Museo Estudio Diego Rivera
Close the circle with a visit to the home of Frida Kahlo's fellow artist and two-time husband (they divorced and remarried, but had such a turbulent relationship they ended their lives in separate abodes). In a home designed specifically for the artist by noted architect Juan O'Gorman, you'll see the muralist's studio, sketches for murals and some completed work, as well as the furnishings that were in the house when he died here.
Walk around the corner to the:
7. San Angel Inn
Raise a margarita to Diego and Freda in the classic hacienda where they put back quite a few. Try to nab a seat on the patio for primo people watching.
Call a taxi to drive to:
8. Pujol
The artistry of chef Enrique Olvera's cooking makes dining here a worthy splurge. And frankly, it's far less of a splurge than a meal at a restaurant of this quality in another world city would be.
Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
