What's New

The news out of Mexico is mostly sunny. The economy is chugging along at a decent clip, inflation remains at historic lows, and the government continues to invest substantial amounts in the nation's infrastructure. For the American traveler, Mexico remains a budget destination, as the dollar continues steady against the peso even while it falls against other currencies. For Brits and Canadians, Mexico is an outright bargain.

Public safety remains a challenge, with the government locked in combat against four strong drug syndicates. It seems to be making advances and improving its intelligence. Most of the conflict is well removed from the popular tourist destinations, except for some areas along the U.S. border. For most Mexicans, the drug war is something they read about in the papers, not something they are living through. The same is true with tourists who steer clear of drug dealers.

Though it isn't making headlines anymore, Mexico's tortilla crisis continues in force, mostly in the northern and eastern parts of the country, less so in the south and west, and more so in cities than in small towns. For visitors, it means occasionally being served tough, dark tortillas instead of pliant, white ones. It occurs more often in budget restaurants or places where the owners aren't sweating the details (a sign, perhaps, that you should try eating elsewhere) or where the crisis is so widespread that bad tortillas are unavoidable.

Planning Your Trip to Mexico

As of January 23, 2007, citizens of the United States, Canada, Mexico, and Bermuda are required to present a passport or other accepted document that establishes the bearer's identity and nationality to enter the United States when arriving by air from any part of the Western Hemisphere. This change in travel document requirements is the result of recommendations made by the 9/11 Commission, which the U.S. Congress subsequently passed into law in the Intelligence Reform and Terrorism Prevention Act of 2004. A separate proposed rule addressing land and sea travel will be published at a later date, proposing specific requirements for travelers entering the United States through land and sea border crossings. As early as January 1, 2008, U.S. citizens traveling between the United States and Canada, Mexico, Central and South America, the Caribbean, and Bermuda by land or sea could be required to present a valid U.S. passport or other documents as determined by the U.S. Department of Homeland Security.

Travelers to Mexico are now able to make tax-free purchases while vacationing, thanks to a law passed by Mexico's Congress. The law grants international visitors a full refund of the tax added to purchases if the buyer adheres to certain criteria. The merchandise must be purchased in Mexico and verified by airport or seaport Customs, and be verified with a receipt presented at time of departure to be worth at least 1,200 Mexican pesos ($110 at current exchange rates). Reimbursement to tourists is contingent upon any added costs a possible return may generate.

Here are highlights on new flight services to and within Mexico:

• Alaska Airlines (www.alaskaair.com) now serves Cancún, Los Cabos, and Puerto Vallarta from Seattle and Portland.
• Aviacsa Airlines (www.aviacsa.com) flies to destinations throughout Mexico from Los Angeles, Las Vegas, and Houston.
• Click Mexicana (www.clickmx.com), a low-cost subsidiary of Mexicana Airlines, has continued to expand its domestic routes, with connections to international destinations via Mexico City on Mexicana.
• Delta Airlines (www.delta.com) now offers nonstop flights from LAX to Mexico City.
• Frontier Airlines (www.frontierairlines.com) has expanded service to include Acapulco, Cabo San Lucas, Cancún, Cozumel, Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo, Mazatlán, and Puerto Vallarta.
• InterJet (www.interjet.com.mx) runs low-cost flights connecting Toluca (near Mexico City) with most Mexican resort destinations.
• Volaris (volaris.com.mx) also offers low-cost flights connecting Toluca (near Mexico City) with Cabo San Lucas, Cancún, Puerto Vallarta, and other Mexican destinations.

Mexico City

Benito Juárez International Airport opened a new international terminal and continues to upgrade the infrastructure in and around the airport. International flights depart from the new Terminal 2 and from the international section of Terminal 1; domestic flights are accommodated by the rest of Terminal 1.

Embassy Suites (tel. 800/362-2779; www.embassysuites1.hilton.com) opened its first hotel in Mexico, an impressive glass high-rise on Paseo de la Reforma. The hotel features the capital's most modern suites. Guests receive complimentary evening cocktails and breakfast cooked to order.

Silver Cities

San Miguel de Allende -- This last year, San Miguel moved it's pamplonada (running of the bulls) to the town of Irapuato. They were having too many problems with public disturbances. It appears that this move will be permanent, which means that you no longer need to avoid San Miguel on that weekend in September. When this guide was published, the Museo Casa de Allende remains closed for remodeling. It should open in late 2008.

Guanajuato -- The Museo Diego Rivera is expanding its exposition space and hopes to attract a few traveling exhibits, especially those that explore early post-revolutionary painting.

The new Hotel Camino Real (www.caminoreal.com) has opened on the site of the former Hacienda San Javier (where the old Parador San Javier was). It's downtown, a few blocks above the Alhóndiga. The hotel's layout is basically the same as with the old Parador San Javier, but with a total makeover of the ruins and an upgrade in services and amenities.

If you're in the market for the distinctive pottery of Capelo or of La Cruz, you no longer have to go way up above La Valenciana to visit their stores. There are two downtown outlets -- one in Plaza San Roque, the other at Positos 69 -- both of which display pieces from the two workshops.

Querétaro -- There is now direct bus service from Querétaro to Puebla, eliminating the need to change buses in Mexico City. This service is being offered by Futura/Chihuahuenses. The schedule wasn't really settled when I was checking into it, but at the time there were four departures per day. The trip takes about 4 hours.

Zacatecas -- Cabs here are all getting meters in an effort to make the costs more uniform. The change in fare structure is slated to begin in 2008.

Museo Virreinal in Guadalupe is undergoing an extensive remodeling. You should check with Zacatecas tourism office before you decide to take a cab out there just to make sure it is open. On my last visit, it was open, but you never know.

San Luis Potosí -- I've given up on when the Museo Nacional de Máscaras will reopen. It has been more than two years since it closed, which means something's up.

Michoacan

Bus service between the coastal resort Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo and either Morelia or Uruapan is convenient and quick. The regional bus company, Parihikuni, has improved its buses and makes use of the new super highway to the coast. It runs six buses per day.

Guadalajara

New ticket counters are going up in all the terminals of Guadalajara's main bus station, in an effort to establish more order and trust between the public and the taxi drivers.

The Canadian consulate has moved to its new location in the Rinconada del Bosque neighborhood.

Admission to the Instituto Cultural Cabañas has shot up to $10 for foreign tourists. It's still worth the price of admission to see Orozco's murals.

Puerto Vallarta & the Central Pacific Coast

The St. Regis Resort Punta Mita (www.starwoodhotels.com) has scheduled its grand opening for October 2008, and is already taking reservations. The resort will include 100 guest rooms -- each with private outdoor shower -- as well as 65 luxury villas, a spa and fitness center, two restaurants, and the second Jack Nicklaus Signature Golf Course in Punta Mita. Just outside the gates of this resort development, the Café des Artistes del Mar (www.cafedesartistes.com) opened early in 2008, a sister-restaurant to the famed venue in Vallarta. The restaurant is within the oceanfront boutique hotel Hotel des Artistes (tel. 866/628-2693 U.S. toll free; 329/291-5005; www.hoteldesartistesdelmar.com), which features fully equipped condos with two or three bedrooms. Rates are $325 to $795 (£163-£398) nightly.

In the recent past, you couldn't score a decent glass of wine in Vallarta. Not only has that changed, but now there is a place dedicated to the enologists. Cava Cinco (www.cavacinco.com, tel. 322/223-2808; Paseo Diaz Ordaz 920, Small Vallarta Local 1D) combines a wine market with wine bar -- so you can bring home what you enjoyed. The market -- with an offering of over 350 vintages, wine accessories, and even cigars -- is open 10am to 2am, while the Wine Bar is open from 5:30pm to 4am. The bar has an ultra-cool lounge-style atmosphere and DJ-spun tunes. No worries if wines or champagne aren't your thing -- beer and drinks are also served.

Vallarta's club scene continues to expand. The newest addition is the Pan-Asian-themed Mandala (tel. 322/223-0966), welcoming revelers from 11am to 6am -- now that's a party!

The storied sport of Americas' Cup Sailing has come to the waters of Banderas Bay, courtesy of Vallarta Adventures (tel. 888/303-2653 in the U.S., or 322/297-1212, www.vallarta-adventures.com). Once the venue of only the world's finest sailors, now even rank novices can experience the thrill of participating in a professional race. You'll first learn the basics, and then sail aboard either the Team Australia AUS 29 or 31 authentic competitor vessels, vying for victory with the rival team of people just like you. It's an unparalleled experience. The 3-hour adventure is $99 (£50) per adult.

On the dining front, deSantos (tel. 322/223-3052; www.desantos.com.mx) has seriously upgraded its culinary team, and now offers exceptional catering services as well. If you're planning to throw a party while in town, theirs is the number to call.

Acapulco & Southern Pacific Coast

The Fairmont Acapulco Princess (tel. 800/441-1414; www.fairmont.com/acapulco) has completed a thorough renovation, restoring its place as the grande dame of Acapulco. Its expansive beach and multiple pool areas are the best in the area.

Oaxaca & Chiapas

Oaxaca -- The city remains peaceful and much less visited. This year would most likely be a good time to visit, as you are probably not going to have to deal with crowds. The city is getting a large influx of Mexican visitors, but most of these come during the July/August vacations or during national holidays. There are no elections this year that could spark conflict; only the annual teacher's strike in May and June.

Villahermosa -- This low-lying capital city of the state of Tabasco, situated on the Gulf coast between Oaxaca and Chiapas had horrendous flooding in 2007 and as of the time of this writing, hasn't yet fully recovered. The Museo Regional de Antropología will most likely be closed until early 2009, but the Parque Museo La Venta -- the one with the megalithic Olmec sculptures -- has reopened.

Puebla & Veracruz

Puebla and Tlaxcala -- One of the murals in Cacaxtla was damaged in after some bad storms. The site is closed right now for repairs. You should check with the local tourism office of Tlaxcala if you're planning a trip to see the ruins.

Veracruz -- The Hotel Emporio was completely gutted when I was last in town. I could not get a date for when it would reopen, so check the website (www.hotelesemporio.com).

Cancun

Cancún has fully recovered from the 2005 wreckage of Hurricane Wilma, and some would say it's emerged better than before. Many hotels, restaurants, and shopping centers used the hurricane's aftermath as an opportunity to upgrade their facilities and services.

Cancún's International Airport has expanded to three terminals and offers greatly improved facilities and services when compared with just a few years ago.

Accommodations -- Reopened at the end of 2007 after having been destroyed by Hurricane Wilma, Aqua (tel. 800/343-7821; www.siente-aqua.com) once again reigns as one of Cancún's most enticing resorts. The hotel includes spacious oceanview rooms, eight oceanfront pools, an invigorating spa, and world-class cuisine. The high-tech rooms feature flatscreen TVs with DVD/CD players, large bathrooms with Molton Brown goods, and aromatherapy kits for private spa treatments.

ME (tel. 866/436-3542; www.mebymelia.com) brings to Cancún a new level of minimalist chic by the Spanish Meliá hotel group. This hotel includes trendy bars, sensual artwork, and chill-out music in the public spaces; guest rooms have distinctive contemporary furnishings and modern amenities such as plasma TVs. The stylish Yhi Spa overlooks the ocean and offers every type of facial and body treatment.

Opened in 2007, the Royal (tel. 800/760-0944; www.realresorts.com.mx) is an over-the-top, all-inclusive, adults-only resort. Luxury abounds, from the stunning infinity pools and gorgeous beach to the gourmet restaurants and sophisticated spa. The elegant marble lobby overlooks the Caribbean on one side and the lagoon on the other. The guest suites offer every conceivable amenity, including two-person Jacuzzis. Guests in the top-category suites have access to BMW Mini Coopers. The all-inclusive package includes gourmet meals, premium drinks, and evening entertainment.

Isla Mujeres & Cozumel

Isla Mujeres -- This small island remains a laid-back resort of small hotels, despite the recent construction of multistory condo towers on the north side of town. Also, Palace Resorts has opened up a small all-inclusive on the island, on the landward side about in the middle of the island. I wasn't able to visit because it hadn't opened yet, but I'm not sure it's sound reason to put an all-inclusive on this island. The hotels and restaurants in town are inexpensive, they have easy beach access, and there isn't a lot of traffic in town. All of this makes an all-inclusive less desirable.

Cozumel -- The town of San Miguel is busy at work on urban beautification projects, and so a couple of streets were closed when I was last there. Word is that the town will continue this work off and on during low seasons, repaving streets and adding trees and shrubs in the areas that see the most visitors.

The Reef Club all-inclusive resort is going to be converted into a Wyndham property, though the ownership will remain local.

The Riviera Maya

Playa del Carmen -- I'm sorry to say that the continued growth of condos in town has meant the demise of a few more hotels. One of my favorites, the Shangri-la Caribe, has closed, and so has the budget hotel Treetops. Playa has had trouble controlling growth and preserving the feel of an alternative resort.

Mayakoba (www.mayakoba.com), the new golf course resort development between Playa and Puerto Morelos, has continued to grow. The developers attracted a stellar lineup of resorts including The Fairmount, Rosewood, and Banyan Tree -- all have spas and border a grand golf course designed by Greg Norman. The Fairmount has been open for a while. The Rosewood opened in 2008. And the other resorts are set to open later in the year.

Tulum -- Land ownership problems continue to plague the coast along Tulum. All the hotels I have listed in the book have secure titles, but some hotels operating on this coast do not and might be closed in the future.

Merida, Chichen Itza & the Maya Interior

Chichén Itzá -- Villas Arqueológicas -- the small chain of hotels that was run by Club Med, with properties at Chichén Itzá, Uxmal, and Cobá -- was sold to a Mexican chain of resorts called Islander Collection. Some of the contact information changed. Check the website, www.islandercollection.com.

Los Cabos & Baja California

Fed up with shady merchants and hawkers creating a negative image of Tijuana's Avenida Revolucion, a group of business owners called CeturMex worked in concert with the Baja Secretary of Tourism to create the Outstanding Host program. Businesses that pass a certification process are given a logo to display in their window and are listed online at www.ceturmex.com.mx.

Many of the businesses, such as the embroidery shop Hand Art, have been around for more than 40 years, and each pledges to provide honesty, quality, and service. If you're one of the scores of people planning to visit Tijuana just for the shopping, it's worth a visit to the website to narrow down your hunt. For more information about Outstanding Host, call tel. 664/685-2642.

Casa Dahlia (tel. 624/142-2120; www.casadahlia.com) is a charming new addition to San José del Cabo's gallery district. The contemporary art gallery and cafe is co-owned by Leah Porter, daughter of famed local artist Dennis Wentworth, a talented artist in her own right. Locals and tourists frequent art shows or just stop by for a cup of tea, some tapas or to smoke a hookah pipe in the evening. There's a great view of the back of the cathedral from the outside patio.

Accommodations -- Pacific Monarch Resorts adds it's unique contribution to San José del Cabo's hotel zone with Cabo Azul Resort and Spa (tel. 877/216-2226; www.caboazul.com). The resort is made up of villas that are decorated by famed L.A. interior designer Dodd Mitchell. He apparently believed that guests should never leave their rooms. Each villa features an indoor whirlpool and a fully functional kitchen with everything from champagne glasses to sauté pans. Guests can opt to shop for food at the onsite market -- which has prices comparable with the nearby Mega supermarket -- or request a personal chef to come cook for them.

Attractions -- Just when you thought you were running out of places to park your megayacht, the Grupo Questro officially opens the $50-million Marina at Puerto Los Cabos (www.marinapuertoloscabos).

The marina is the centerpiece of the master-planned Puerto Los Cabos community east of downtown San José de Los Cabos and is predicted to bring tourist traffic to rival that of the bustling marina in Cabo San Lucas.

Expect to see new restaurants, tour activities, a new museum, and even a ferry to Cabo San Lucas as the area continues to develop.

Cabo Adventures (tel. 888/303-2653 in the U.S. or 624/173-9500; www.cabo-adventures.com) unfurled its own version of the America's Cup Challenge. In the last 10 years, Los Cabos has earned a reputation as a place where everyday Joes can get the chance to party and play like millionaires, and this new activity will only enhance its status.

The day starts off at the Cabo Dolphins Center in Marina San Lucas, where teams are formed and racers are given a brief history of the America's Cup yachting regatta. The teams then board one of two former New Zealand racing test yachts, where they are briefed on all things nautical before they jib and grind their way around Lover's Arch. The 3-hour race ends with a victory party back on the dock, where winners and losers alike are presented with personalized certificates.