What's New

As with other destinations, Mexico's tourism industry has been hit hard by the global financial crisis as many would-be travelers tighten their belts and await a stronger economy. Since Mexico relies on tourism for much of its income, the country has redoubled its efforts to attract visitors, and enticing specials abound. For the American traveler, Mexico remains a budget destination, as the dollar continues to rise against the peso at press time. For Brits and Canadians, Mexico remains an outright bargain.

In late April 2009, an outbreak of A(H1N1) influenza known as "swine flu" appeared to have originated in Mexico. It spread to numerous countries around the world (including throughout North America), leading the World Health Organization (WHO) to declare a global pandemic with a moderate severity as of press time. On May 15, 2009, the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) lifted its recommendation that American citizens avoid all non-essential travel to Mexico, discontinuing the State Department's Mexico travel alert regarding the swine flu outbreak. The CDC has suggested precautions that travelers in Mexico (especially those at high risk for complications of influenza) should take to reduce their risk of infection while there. Following the outbreak, some countries imposed quarantines and other screening procedures for travelers coming from Mexico. Travelers going directly to another country after Mexico (other than their home country) may wish to check the website of the foreign country's embassy to learn what procedures may be in place for that destination. For the latest information regarding the risks of A(H1N1) when traveling to Mexico, please consult the U.S. State Department's website at www.travel.state.gov, or the website of the World Health Organization at www.who.int. Complete CDC guidelines regarding A(H1N1) influenza can be found at the following: www.cdc.gov/travel.

Public safety remains a challenge, with the government locked in combat against narco-traffickers in a number of areas of the country. The government seems to be making advances and improving its intelligence, but violence has increased just as the government has made headway. Most of the conflict is well removed from the popular tourist destinations, except for some areas along the U.S. border. Visitors should pay close attention to travel alerts and advisories, such as those published by the U.S. Department of State (www.state.gov).

Planning Your Trip to Mexico -- Under the Western Hemisphere Travel Initiative (WHTI), all persons traveling by air outside of the United States are required to present a passport or other valid travel document to enter or re-enter the United States. On June 1, 2009, the U.S. government implemented the full requirements of the land and sea phase of WHTI. The rules require most U.S. citizens entering the United States at sea or land ports of entry to have a passport, passport card, or other travel document approved by the Department of Homeland Security.

Travelers to Mexico are now able to make tax-free purchases while vacationing, thanks to a law passed by Mexico's Congress. The law grants international visitors a full refund of the tax added to purchases if the buyer adheres to certain criteria. The merchandise must be purchased in Mexico and verified by airport or seaport Customs, and be verified with a receipt presented at time of departure to be worth at least 1,200 pesos. Reimbursement to tourists is contingent upon any added costs a possible return may generate.

Here are highlights on new flight services to and within Mexico:

• Alaska Airlines (www.alaskaair.com) now serves Cancún, Los Cabos, and Puerto Vallarta from Seattle and Portland.
• Aviacsa Airlines (www.aviacsa.com) flies to destinations throughout Mexico from Los Angeles, Las Vegas, and Houston.
• Click Mexicana (www.clickmx.com), a low-cost subsidiary of Mexicana Airlines, has continued to expand its domestic routes, with connections to international destinations via Mexico City on Mexicana.
• Delta Airlines (www.delta.com) now offers nonstop flights from LAX to Mexico City.
• Frontier Airlines (www.frontierairlines.com) has expanded service to include Acapulco, Cabo San Lucas, Cancún, Cozumel, Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo, Mazatlán, and Puerto Vallarta.
• InterJet (www.interjet.com.mx) runs low-cost flights connecting Toluca (near Mexico City) with most Mexican resort destinations.
• Volaris (http://volaris.com.mx) also offers low-cost flights connecting Toluca (near Mexico City) with Cabo San Lucas, Cancún, Puerto Vallarta, and other Mexican destinations.

Mexico City

Turibus of Mexico City now offers a nighttime service on its red double-decker buses, allowing passengers to hop on and off at various party spots around the city into the early hours on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday. The service costs 250 pesos and can be booked at the regular ticket office.

The Museo Universitario Arte Contemporáneo (MuAC) opened on the Universidad Naciónal Autonoma de Mexico (UNAM) campus in November 2008. Not only is it the first major public museum to open in Mexico in more than 30 years, but it also houses the most extensive collection of contemporary art (from the 1950s and beyond) in Mexico. Designed by renowned Mexican architect and UNAM graduate Teodoro González de León, the museum contains a research center, a room dedicated to sound art, and a bookstore and restaurant.

Taxco

The latest restoration efforts at the Santa Prisca Cathedral have turned to the one-of-a-kind 17th-century organ which, according to La Jornada newspaper, was constructed by hand in Taxco with materials imported from Europe and brought over by mule from Veracruz. The church now regularly presents organ concerts by renowned Mexican musicians. For more information, visit the Spanish-only website www.orgmex.org/calendario.html.

Silver Cities

San Miguel de Allende -- In 2008, UNESCO designated the colonial center of town and the outlying religious complex of Atotonilco a World Heritage Site. This makes it the fourth city covered in this chapter to be recognized in this way.

The Casa Museo Allende, which is across the street from La Parroquia, remains closed for renovation until mid-summer of 2009.

A new restaurant, called simply The Restaurant (tel. 415/154-7862), opened in the spring 2008 and has been winning over locals and visitors alike. Owners Donnie Masterson and Cynthia Granado are from the U.S., where Donnie was a chef at various restaurants on both coasts. The menu changes every 2 weeks or so and strikes a balance between the known and the new, what they call "global comfort food." The Restaurant is located close to the Jardín, in a charming courtyard setting.

Guanajuato

Delta Airlines has ceased nonstop service to and from Atlanta.

The Museo Diego Rivera remains open while construction continues on the new additional exhibition space. This is not the best time to visit on account of the noise, but all the commotion is scheduled to wind down by the end of 2009.

The restaurant El Abue (tel. 473/732-6242) is operating under new management, which has brought energy and enthusiasm to the kitchen. The food and service are good.

Zacatecas

Museo Virreinal, in Guadalupe, is still undergoing expansion and remodeling, but it remains open during the process. All construction is supposed to end by summer 2009.

Michoacán

New construction of a toll road has reduced the time it takes to get to and from Morelia's airport. Where before it took about 45 minutes to drive from the airport to Morelia's centro histórico, it now takes about 25 minutes.

Another toll road that connects to Hwy. 43 has reduced the time it takes to drive to Guanajuato by about an hour, by bypassing the city of Salamanca.

Guadalajara

The airport has received a face-lift, with new parking and more space for picking up and dropping off passengers. This makes arriving at this destination a little less chaotic.

Puerto Vallarta & the Central Pacific Coast

The Marriott CasaMagna (tel. 800/223-6388; www.marriott.com) completed a $10-million renovation in 2008. Located in Marina Vallarta, it offers extensive pool and beach activities and is one of the most family-friendly resorts in all of Puerto Vallarta.

The St. Regis Resort (tel. 800/598-1863; www.stregis.com/puntamita) opened in late 2008, the only rival in the exclusive Punta Mita area to the Four Seasons. The serene resort is spread out over magnificent grounds along the beach and boasts a world-class spa and fitness center, three gourmet restaurants, and access to two Jack Nicklaus signature golf courses.

Acapulco & the Southern Pacific Coast

The Fairmont Acapulco (tel. 800/441-1414; www.fairmont.com/acapulco) has added a luxury tower called "the Pearl." Located next to the family-friendly Fairmont Princess, the Pearl targets hip, urban couples looking for a more exclusive vacation. Designer guest rooms feature plasma TVs, 350-count Egyptian cotton sheets, and beautiful bathrooms with rain showers. Guests of the Pearl have exclusive check-in and concierge services, but retain full access to facilities at the Princess and the Pierre Marqués.

One of the city's hottest tables, Zuntra (tel. 744/444-5601; www.zuntra.com.mx) has expanded beyond its breathtaking dining room that overlooks Acapulco Bay and serves outstanding pan-Asian style seafood. The upper level now houses a chic lounge-bar which fills with the city's beautiful people as the night wears on. This is a great place for a cocktail in a refined setting.

Oaxaca & Chiapas

Oaxaca -- The political situation in the city is calm at present, which would make 2009 a good time to visit. In 2010, the campaign to elect the next governor will begin in earnest. This could open old wounds and spark civil strife, so check news reports before you go.

A new Museo Textil has opened at the corner of Hidalgo and Fiallo, in one portion of the old San Pablo Monastery. The first couple of shows have displayed beautiful examples of the textile arts from Oaxaca, Mexico, and the world.

Puebla & Veracruz

Puebla and Tlaxcala -- The ruins of Cacaxtla are open to the public again. Work to repair flood damage was completed in late 2008.

Veracruz -- The Hotel Emporio (tel. 229/932-0020; www.hotelesemporio.com), the nine-story hotel located just off of Veracruz's malecón, remains closed while undergoing a top-to-bottom renovation. When open, the hotel will offer rooms with balconies overlooking the harbor and the old Spanish fort of San Juan Ulúa. The hotel is scheduled to reopen in summer 2009.

Cancún

Cancún's International Airport has expanded to three terminals and offers greatly improved facilities. All flights in and out of the United States now go through Terminal 3.

Fully reopened in 2008 after having been destroyed by Hurricane Wilma, Aqua (tel. 800/343-7821; www.feel-aqua.com) once again reigns as one of Cancún's most tempting resorts. The spa-resort includes spacious oceanview rooms, eight oceanfront pools, an invigorating spa, world-class cuisine, and extremely gracious service. The high-tech rooms feature flatscreen TVs with DVD/CD players, large bathrooms with Molton Brown goods, and aromatherapy kits for private spa treatments.

Situated adjacent the Nichupté Lagoon, Harry's (tel. 998/840-6550; www.harrys.com.mx) is the hottest new addition to Cancún's dining scene. This prime steakhouse and raw bar serves huge portions and offers extremely attentive service; you're unlikely to find a better steak in Cancún.

Isla Mujeres & Cozumel

Cozumel -- The Reef Club, an all-inclusive resort on the southern end of the island, has changed management and is now a member of the Wyndham chain of properties. The new name is Wyndham Cozumel Resort and Spa (www.wyndham.com). And its neighbor, the Allegro Cozumel Resort, has become the Holiday Village White Sands, under the First Choice label (www.firstchoice.co.uk). The all-inclusive resort Costa Club has changed names and is now Hotel Cozumel & Resort (www.hotelcozumel.com.mx).

The cruise-ship pier Puerta Maya, destroyed by Hurricane Wilma in 2005, was the last of the three piers to return to full functionality. The long delay was caused by the fact that very little of the original pier could be saved. Work was completed in November 2008.

The Riviera Maya

Mayakobá (www.mayakoba.com), the golf course residential resort development between Playa and Puerto Morelos, has continued to grow. If you're interested in buying a resort villa, you can choose between the Fairmont, Rosewood (opened in 2008), Banyan Tree (opening in 2009), and Viceroy (opening in 2010).

Playa del Carmen -- Two things of interest: The great beach hotel -- the Shangri-La Caribe, which was scheduled to be replaced by a condo project -- has been given a reprieve (finance troubles, don't you know). Chances are it won't have the same name or the same web page, but it will work with the same reservations agency, Turquoise Reefs (tel. 800/538-6602). Also, a good little taquería, Los Carboncitos (tel. 984/873-1382), was slated to close but merely changed owners. It's on calle 4 and sells tacos, soup, and a few traditional dishes, and does a good job of it.

Tulum -- Construction work on Hwy. 307 will be completed by summer 2009. It will then be four lanes all the way to Tulum.

Mérida, Chichén Itzá & the Maya Interior

Mérida -- Plans to tear down the old municipal market and convert the land to an urban green space have stalled. Market vendors have been reluctant to move to the new market across the way. The city government is still trying to persuade them.

Chichén Itzá -- The state government is making an effort to curb the large number of peddlers who operate at the ruins. Over the last few years these have grown into the hundreds. They are well organized and will be difficult to dislodge. Visitors to the site might see banners protesting the actions of the state police.

Costa Maya

The cruise ship pier in Majahual is now up and running. Cruise ship crowds have returned to the area.

Copper Canyon

The Sierra Madre Express, the outfit running luxury trains from Tucson down through the Copper Canyon, has ceased operations -- another victim of the economic downturn.

Los Cabos & Baja

The historic Rosarito Beach Hotel (tel. 800/343-8582; www.rosaritobeachhotel.com) has completed major renovations and the construction of the new condo/hotel Pacifico. The rooms in the original buildings maintain their classic charm, while the new rooms have a more modern aesthetic. The 17-story Pacifico features family-style condo suites with floor-to-ceiling ocean views. All rooms contain kitchenettes or kitchens and multiple LCD televisions.